Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is that int. or ext. gate? Also just wanted to point out that you should probably make sure you have the right details of the date and which turbo you are testing on the run id of the graph. It will be confusing for people in future when they are looking at results throughout this thread and you are talking about 1 particular turbo but the run id lists another.

Its the same car. Both results are internally gated on P98 fuel:

R34 GTT RB25DET NEO unopened engine.

- Adaptronic​ ECU
- 1000CC ID injectors
- Factory cams, cams gears, and all manifolds.
- HyperGear ATR43SS2 Internal gated RB25 bolton Turbocharger
- JJR 3 inches turbo back exhaust with bleeder valve.
- Walbro 470L/H Fuel pump
- 4 inches induction pipe
- Split fire coil packs
- PWR 600x300x81mm intercooler
- Tuned by Trent Hewitson​, Chequered Tuning​.

I have seen 430+ a few times on the factory manifold with the gate off the housing. Welding it off the manifold could work well if you can get in and die grind it afterwards. I doubt you will see much in the way of gains between them.

No need for stabilizer with pump e85, I have been on Caltex/United e85 for 6 odd years without running a stabilizer and never cleaned my filters or injectors.

Watch your timing, I much prefer more boost and less timing as you previously mentioned Johnny.

I tried a mixture of things, first few runs pushed the SS2 (circa 2013) to 26psi, but it bled down to about 23psi.. no real difference in power, then tried a few more runs each time less boost. Seemed pretty happy at 23~24psi however no difference in power.

This is when I started adding in more timing, kept on adding more and more and more to the point where it stopped making power (however was listening for audible knock, which I couldn't hear nor see on the logs).

Pretty much ended up with the following below (timing trace through logs vs. boost).

post-22311-0-30643600-1449117761_thumb.png

It could be the tires used. If its threading on the rollers it will under read. Does it feel stronger on road with the additional timing in?

It could be the tires used. If its threading on the rollers it will under read. Does it feel stronger on road with the additional timing in?

I initially ran the car on the dyno and it made 290kW so I got my mate and the shop owner to hop in the back and it read 310kW, after that I strapped the car down fairly tight.

I am thinking there's a restriction on the hotside/exhaust as I am running a very quiet exhaust system + a cat.

I don't think it's timing related, as you can see I'm running a bucket load of timing (even the shop owner was like you're leaning too much on the timing to make power). However one thing to note, the car was running E61 as I only decided that morning to fine tune the timing map, so potentially the power shortfall could have been through diluted concentration of ethanol.

After the new year, I'll put a new manifold on from HAVOC and see what the car can make before the motor grenades itself hahahaha

Put ATR45SAT on it when its going to Havoc, and max that out. :D

I've remembering reading a discussion about few members whom are chasing my results. First of all Trent definitely does not deliberately tune a dangerous amount of timing to boost up results, he tunes it no different to any other cars. Turbocharger is nothing but a hot dryer without effective supporting mods, I will pin point few that have made a noticeable difference to my own car as some of you already seen.

1. At 3 inches metal induction pipe with a good pod filter

DSC00402.JPG

Differences VS stock:

puvsrick.jpg

2.Good front mount intercooler:

nexttotokashi.jpg303rwkwall.jpg

3. Big exhaust or add an exhaust Tee:

frontpipeopen.jpg

atr45sat351rwkwp98.jpg

Put ATR45SAT on it when its going to Havoc, and max that out. :D

No 45SAT :)

I'm happy with the lag of the SS2, anymore and I might as well just have a dyno queen that's absolutely useless for the track.

A little more power would be great and maybe more response..

I do like the looks of the new SS2, would be perfect for track use. 4k worth of rpm to use!

No 45SAT :)

I'm happy with the lag of the SS2, anymore and I might as well just have a dyno queen that's absolutely useless for the track.

A little more power would be great and maybe more response..

I do like the looks of the new SS2, would be perfect for track use. 4k worth of rpm to use!

EFR7163

EFR7163

LOL yes, but I'm not made of money and getting a turbo that's worth the cost of my entire car is idiotic!

EFRs belong on the likes of a GTR EVO Supra RX7, not some shit box R33 GTSt lol

There has been quite few upgrades to SS2 since your one was built. When sending the manifold to Havoc, send your turbo down in I will have a look to see what updates can be applied to the existing housings.

There has been quite few upgrades to SS2 since your one was built. When sending the manifold to Havoc, please send your turbo down in I will have a look to see what updates can be applied to the existing housings.

Havoc has my manifold already, but I haven't taken off the turbo yet as I still need the car for an upcoming track day.

Note that I will need a new rear housing as discussed as I'm currently running a scotty mod housing

No 45SAT :)

I'm happy with the lag of the SS2, anymore and I might as well just have a dyno queen that's absolutely useless for the track.

A little more power would be great and maybe more response..

I do like the looks of the new SS2, would be perfect for track use. 4k worth of rpm to use!

I can confirm the lag on the 45 is quite high (posted my dyno graph in here somewhere earlier). I don't mind it but then again, it's not a track car. Maybe one day I'll get sick of it and go SS2 or something of the sorts.

I can confirm the lag on the 45 is quite high (posted my dyno graph in here somewhere earlier). I don't mind it but then again, it's not a track car. Maybe one day I'll get sick of it and go SS2 or something of the sorts.

I don't think your RPM vs. KM/h has been derived properly thus it looks a little more laggy than it is... Also should go E85 ASAP, with the added exhaust gas produced, you'll get the turbo on noise quicker.. look at the result posted here:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-53#entry7637416

It's all in at 4500rpm and makes a silly 365kW

Is this right Stao, or am I reading it wrong?

Depending on the turbo is working with. That reading is out of an ATR45SAT model. Yes it have made a big difference with exhaust ventilation, its almost as driving with no exhaust at WOT.

On a Rb25det Neo motor the ATR45SAT's making 20psi by 4000RPM, check to see if VCT is active, preload the actuator by an extra 2mms and see if that makes any differences.

  • Like 1

Thanks Stao, I'll give it a go - Car has RB25DET non neo not sure that they had VCT (maybe I'm wrong)

From the dyno and driving I find that it's on full boost around 4500RPM

Thanks Stao, I'll give it a go - Car has RB25DET non neo not sure that they had VCT (maybe I'm wrong)

From the dyno and driving I find that it's on full boost around 4500RPM

a little naughty, but drop your cat and run the car dump/down pipe to atmosphere (as a test) and see if it comes on earlier.. chances are your exhaust system is restrictive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...