Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll try one when I get rid of my rb20

Just got back from the gold coast where I drove a stock HCR32 kouki in Dark Blue Pearl with the dark chrome grill garnish, very pretty car.

hey, I have 34 gtt 25neo!! Chasing around 350rwkw with a good response, which turbo you would recommend?

So far I got

Fmic

3inch tbe

Nistune with flex tune 98/85

Hpx afm in a 3inch pipe

Walbro 460

1000cc injectors

Avcr boost controller

Cheers

350rwkws on E85 fuel you can use our new ATR43G3SAT model. You will need a very big exhaust and a very free flow cooler to run ATR45SAT, that can get close to 350rwkws on P98 fuel.

Hey Tao. Have you posted P98 power figures of your new 21U turbo? If not could you please?

I'd imagine the OP housing would make minimal gains over the 21U?

What size is your exhaust and what mufflers etc?

rear.jpg

Our high flowed T517Z. 507awkws @ 22psi E85 fuel internally gated, on a built RB26dett by Forged Performance in SA. Looking at stiffer actuators and run up to 30psi. Hopefully be seeing 600awkws.

power.jpg

  • Like 1

The best I've got was 287rwkws P98 fuel on 21psi. R34 GTT Neo engine. with Exhaust Tee and PWR cooler:

power.jpg

boost.jpg

How is the exhaust T going after all this time? I was a bit skeptical of the spring loosening up over time and when the exhaust gets hot.

^ you're better off using an external gate with a weak spring to emulate what Tao is doing with that flapper. A few guys have done that (not here) but Google!

^ you're better off using an external gate with a weak spring to emulate what Tao is doing with that flapper. A few guys have done that (not here) but Google!

I wouldn't be doing the mod ;) just curious as to how it's held up over time as it's different than the ex and int types.

I know a few people who have tried this with external and internal gate mechanisms, but they have all had problems.

Well, the exhaust Tee is bleeding with not as compressed air as what it is inside the exhaust manifold. So it needs to be alot bigger. There are many ways of doing it, the most popular I've seen was that window switch motor controlled valve on ebay. That doesn't work very well as the motor gets overheated by exhaust gas.

Alternatively you can use an actuator to control the valve, which is very reliable, or just some good high tensile springs. Its a simple device, but that definitely shown an improvement.

Hey Tao, What would you recomend for a VH45DE engine? pref in single config. Street driven so reasonable response around 400rwkw minimum range?

For this engine you can run one of our ATR45 in a 1.06 rear housing externally gated. On E85 fuel that will be plenty for 400rwkws

Also vid sent in from Jason using one of our prototype ATR43 in his 1JZ, the goal was a responsive 300rwkws on Pump fuel with out VVTI. It is not an easy task as I originally predicted, project is still on going.

Vid shown 320rwkws on E85 fuel @ 22psi

Yes. Rebuild Using using a bush bearing core will cost u 700 or a Garrett bb core for 1050. Will require braided oil line and mico filter removed for either cores

Ok and what suporting mods are required i have fmi 3"dump exhust can this turbo b utilised without a tune can you set boost to afr's ratio

Wut?

Not tune, set boost to afr? What you mean man?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...