Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, Super Drager said:

How tight of a fit is it? Doesn't foul on anything? 

It's a pretty tight fit but not impossible - Only thing it does foul on is the aircon drain pipe which I just chopped shorter. 
The only pain in the ass thing is the flange to manifold bolts are a bitch to get on and require some patience. 

  • 1 month later...

Some video footage from Last weeks Victoria Time attack at Philip Island GrandPix. 

ATR45SAT Turbocharger Powered Top Stage S14 SR20det (400rwkws @28psi, E85 fuel). Taking first in Modified class. Driven by John Richardson

 

  • Like 2

Posted in my own build thread, but relevant for this thread.

I got myself a Hypergear G3 high flow on a 21U turbo. I've had pretty good results, making 230rwkw @ 14psi on 98RON. This particular dyno graph shows boost dropping at the top end, this is because (due to my own request) Tao put on a 10psi OEM wastegate, and it just wasn't up to the task.

I've put on an aftermarket wastegate (pictured) and it now pulls 18psi happily all the way to redline.

I installed the turbo myself and it was very straightforward. Overall stoked with the results.

 

dyno.PNG

wastegate 1.PNG

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Just repaired a blown Borgwarner EFR with no exhaust wheel. Luckily the compressor wheel is undamaged. It has been fitted onto one of our ATR CBB cores with a custom grind turbine wheel to suit the original turbine housing profile. Looking to match original power figure before turbo failure, hopefully with a bit more torque through mid range.

orgcore.JPG

 

chra1.JPG

turbine.JPG

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted in my own build thread, but relevant for this thread.
I got myself a Hypergear G3 high flow on a 21U turbo. I've had pretty good results, making 230rwkw @ 14psi on 98RON. This particular dyno graph shows boost dropping at the top end, this is because (due to my own request) Tao put on a 10psi OEM wastegate, and it just wasn't up to the task.
I've put on an aftermarket wastegate (pictured) and it now pulls 18psi happily all the way to redline.
I installed the turbo myself and it was very straightforward. Overall stoked with the results.
 
dyno.thumb.PNG.9ba27bddec5b8d2d3cbac373685880c4.PNG
59870720d53b7_wastegate1.thumb.PNG.7c01332571db21538159e29105c149fe.PNG

Time for some e85 then
18 hours ago, hypergear said:

Just repaired a blown Borgwarner EFR with no exhaust wheel. Luckily the compressor wheel is undamaged. It has been fitted onto one of our ATR CBB cores with a custom grind turbine wheel to suit the original turbine housing profile. Looking to match original power figure before turbo failure, hopefully with a bit more torque through mid range

 

Post mortem review - what caused that failure?

 

First run with Brand new Ceramic ball bearing T4 print ATR44SS prototype hit the dyno this afternoon. Car made 406rwkws @ 22psi, Pump 98 fuel. full boost by 4000RPM. Stock 2JZGTE, sorry not an RB this time.

 

  • 3 months later...

Hello and greetings from Finland

I have had my skyline for 8 years now, and now its finally time to upgrade the turbo. I am looking for around 300rwkw with 98 fuel. With supporting mods of course. Since i have a limited budget i was thinkin of the ATR43G3SAT with thrust bearings. The price of that would be perfect, but i couldn`t find any dyno results or other info of that turbo with thrust bearings. I know that bb core is recomended with this, but i really like the price of the normal bearings and if it still would be good enough, it might be a choise. With bb core it seems to be really amazing. Or is there some other options i should consider? Maybe high flow or ss2? I am looking for the most cost effective way to get good end result.

 

 

For up to 300rwkws region a brand new ATR43G3SAT turbo is recommended.

ATR43G3SAT bush bearing, internally gated, P98 result based on a R33 Rb25det engine:

atr43g3power.jpg

atr43g3boost.jpg

 

  • Like 1

Thanks for the dyno graph. It looks pretty good in bush bearings too, but there sure is noticeable difference between ball bearings and bush bearings. About 70 Nm and 20 Kw in 3500 Rpm, if i looked correctly. I have couple of weeks time to think which one to get, before i get some money. I will go with teh ball bearings if i can afford them. If i can`t i will go with bush bearings. Either way i go, i think i will have a good turbo.

Back to back on the dyno measuring 4th gear paddle to the metal, there isn't that much of a visual differences to the curves. Take everyday road driving with partial throttle acceleration the differences are very noticeable. 

  • 2 weeks later...

There has been quite a number of updates applied in terms of wheels, housings and bearings in recent years so we will be starting another R34 GTT modification project, it will used in the development of our SS Ceramic ball bearing series turbochargers. 

lfront.JPG

Car is a 2000 model with 80,000KM on the clock, bought from an mature enthusiast whom spent quite few coins at it with:

 Split fire coil packs

700cc injectors (Bosch?) 

PFC ECU + Z32 AFM

3 inches Xfroce Varax exhaust 

Koyo radiator

High flowed OP6 turbo (appeared to be an old XTR model)

Walbro 255 fuel pump

NPC Heavy duty clutch

HKS return flow cooler kit.

cooler.jpg

Setup on the dyno for the first time, after few power pulls the turbo started to make some funny noises and we stopped it at 226rwkws at 11psi, Peeked 14psi at 4000RPM.

226rwkw.JPG

226rwkwboost.JPG  

Other issue worth mentioning is VCT. Using factory ECU/many aftermarket plugins, VCT solenoid produces a very distinctive "click" activation sound on throttle opening. PFC activates it in gear, so you should hear it clutched in 1st and a tap on the throttle. Mine is not clicking, later diagnostics have revealed signal output problems from the ECU. If VCT is not activated, there will be a lose in boost response by roughly 500RPM, and I found VCT problems frequently occurring with customers using old PFC plugins. 

vct.jpg

 I have re-high flowed the OP6 turbocharger using one of our ATR43SS2 ceramic ball bearing cores:

ss2front.jpg

ss2rear.jpg

  

Further dyno shown an improvement in response of 600RPM while a 27kws increase in power. 253rwkws @ 15psi

253rwkw.JPG

we had some boost taper issues on the dyno, and MAP comparison have once again shown a flow restriction caused by a return flow cooler. Boost pressure before cooler: 22psi, after: 15psi, pressure drop: 7PSI

253rwkwboost.JPG

 

The plan before my next dyno run is to trail PWR's vertical flow cooler as they do make one that bolt on to an R34 GTT and will be replacing the PFC with the latest Adaptronic Modular R34 plugin ECU.  

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...