Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to spend $500 to do that sleeve insert. 

One more Tuning video to add. This is one of our ATR43G3SAT Rb bolton models. making 324rwkws on E85 fuel internally gated.

Car's an R33 GTST with:

Stock RB25DET
Stock intake manifold with FF throttle body conversion 
FMIC
Hypergear ATR Series bolt on turbo with IWG
Stock exhaust manifold 
3" TBE
Aeroflow top feed fuel rail conversion and Bosch 1000cc injectors
Walbro 460LPH fuel pump 
EBC
Flex sensor 
Haltech Platinum pro plug in ECU
Prepped by Hadie from Elite Motorsport

 

 

Edited by hypergear
  • Like 1
Looking to spend $500 to do that sleeve insert. 
One more Tuning video to add. This is one of our ATR43G3SAT Rb bolton models. making 324rwkws on E85 fuel internally gated.
Car's an R33 GTST with:

Stock RB25DET
Stock intake manifold with FF throttle body conversion 
FMIC
Hypergear ATR Series bolt on turbo with IWG
Stock exhaust manifold 
3" TBE
Aeroflow top feed fuel rail conversion and Bosch 1000cc injectors
Walbro 460LPH fuel pump 
EBC
Flex sensor 
Haltech Platinum pro plug in ECUPrepped by Hadie from Elite Motorsport

 

 




Can you please share some dyno data of the T51r anti surge slot showing?
Specifically after before and after the slot install ?

It acts as a normal anti surge slot. There is a lose in compressor efficiency. I did a comparison years ago result is in this thread. There was a lose of 300RPM and 11kws with that particular turbo used.    

Tao, I have a genuine low KM Trust TD06SL2-20G (8cm) off my RB20.
Going forged RB25 and cannot seem to sell it for reasonable money to fund a larger Turbo.


Worth doing a 10cm 20.5G or similar whilst I save for a big banger 25G?

Let me know if I should PM you :)

The SL205 makes the same power as a 25G with better response. If your current turbo is not blown I can have that modified to the same specifications as the 20.5 with a 10cm with turbine housing supplied for less then half the cost of a new turbo.  

The SL205 makes the same power as a 25G with better response. If your current turbo is not blown I can have that modified to the same specifications as the 20.5 with a 10cm with turbine housing supplied for less then half the cost of a new turbo.  
Will PM you.

More video to share. This is an R33 GTST powered by one of our ATR45SS1 turbochargers at Hitec drift last weekend. Car's currently making 401rwkws on E85.

 

  • Like 2

One more result to share:

Rb25det NEO Stock engine

HyperGear high flowed Turbocharger
ID 1000cc injectors
Walbro 460L fuel pump

Power FC + Z32 AFM
Greedy Profect B EBC
600x300x81mm PWR Cooler kit
3inches turbo back exhaust
4inches intake pipe with Pod
Split fire coil packs

Turbosmart 45mm external gate welded on exhaust manifold.

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

At higher boost level we've reached 340rwkws before experiencing ignition break down.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgz8Wzyc6X0&t=6s

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
further update with prototype ATR45ss turbocharger. Car made 364rwkws before running out fuel. 
 
Looks like vct really helps these turbos come alive in mid range. Even though its a .63 the torque graph looks really good

Hey guys, just sharing a result.
Stock RB25DET, recent ( late last year) 21u highflow. 98 fuel. Vipec plug-in.
240rwkw on 14.5 psi.
264 on 17.5psi.

In the interest of stealthy looks, still running airbox, exhaust with functional cat and 2 mufflers. CES split dump, and a generic China cooler with custom return flow pipework.

Engine bay looks stock.

Putting more boost in gave more midrange, but tapered off to 17-18 up top, obviously either/ all due to airbox, cooler setup and exhaust. But happy with the stealthy looks for now.

Fairly happy with the result, car drives great.5330FC90-D845-4773-9198-8280FDCB46F9.jpg

  • Like 1

Nice result. The pressure drop would mainly be restriction on cold side. A FMIC with a better cooler, 4 inches metal intake and free flow exhaust should see another 10~15kws gain. 

The stock look is my ideal setup.

 

What intake pipe between turbo and airbox?

And what actuator and boost control?

Edited by Pattey21
More info

The biggest you can fit using air box would be 3 inches, I would prefer a short 4 inches metal pipe in between. that provides better throttle response over 3 or 2.5 inches. Actuators, something 14psi or one of our high pressure actuators will do fine. 

On 4/10/2019 at 11:39 AM, Pattey21 said:

The stock look is my ideal setup.

 

What intake pipe between turbo and airbox?

And what actuator and boost control?

Ebay silicon one, as previously tried by Tao. Pretty much a drop in

14.5 psi actuator, boost control is a 3 port mac valve controlled by the vipec (ecu).

ATR45SS Rb25det NEO round 2 with fuel pump issue sorted. Now pulling 400rwkws at 24psi on E85 fuel. Car mods are listed in video below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrVjIMxIFrA

  • Like 3
ATR45SS Rb25det NEO round 2 with fuel pump issue sorted. Now pulling 400rwkws at 24psi on E85 fuel. Car mods are listed in video below:

What would you expect out of this same setup on 98 octane?
On 4/17/2019 at 11:38 PM, hypergear said:

ATR45SS Rb25det NEO round 2 with fuel pump issue sorted. Now pulling 400rwkws at 24psi on E85 fuel. Car mods are listed in video below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrVjIMxIFrA

Is there much lost by plumbing in the wastegate with the 3 inch exhaust?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...