Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my r34 with R1s (N1s afaik) made 289kw on a mainline dyno at 19psi without cat,

and 279 awkw on croydon with the cat.

With a tune and cam gears, it filled the 555cc injectors at stock rail pressure, so the fun

stopped at 5000rpm. (stock fuel pump). I think over 300 would be achievable with N1s

and this matches what jim at croydon said: a nur he had through did that with pfc, better

exhaust and intake.

Over the weekend we put on 2530kais & 700cc, and this week some time, they're gonna

get back to me with a new dyno graph. I'll post up all in a different topic if anyone is

interested. (I'm hoping to get all this crap done in time for the anniversary cruise).

Edited by moneypit

Looking good Bakes. In the real world dyno numbers are just that, numbers. I wouldn't be too worried about getting X kw's .I'm sure the car feels so much better than before and when (if) you take it out on the track you will see the difference.

Great looking car, nicely put together thread and excellent standard of workmanship gone into it as well.

I would be worried if it pulled 240rwkws with the std turbos on the same dyno. If it was on a different dyno then fair enough. LOL i was gutted when my lil RB20 only made 222rwkw after a turbo and ecu upgrade, bigger numbers always make you feel better :thumbsup:

well 240 is not too bad, but still well short of what it should be. stock turbos, 14 pound, a tune and a cat back will usually get around 250 or a bit more with cam gears on a 34. there can be some variance between dynos but still I would have thought the average for that set-up would be 300+ even with a crap cat and anywhere up to 350 is not out of the norm. my old set-up ran 260odd kw with just 15psi on stock turbos with standard dumps + fronts, just cat back, cam gears, PFC and hard pipe kit. yours should be smashing that set-up everywhere. :( hopefully you get some gain without the cat.

0517001bo2.jpg

I would be worried if it pulled 240rwkws with the std turbos on the same dyno. If it was on a different dyno then fair enough. LOL i was gutted when my lil RB20 only made 222rwkw after a turbo and ecu upgrade, bigger numbers always make you feel better :(

actually that's a good point. what did it make before these changes? that will give you the only real measure you need. if it was making 165kw on the same dyno with the stock set-up, and now with more boost, turbos, ecu etc it's making 240 then you know it's just a low reading dyno, but that the gains are there. that's the best way to use a dyno, just use the same one to measure before and after results. :(

actually that's a good point. what did it make before these changes? that will give you the only real measure you need. if it was making 165kw on the same dyno with the stock set-up, and now with more boost, turbos, ecu etc it's making 240 then you know it's just a low reading dyno, but that the gains are there. that's the best way to use a dyno, just use the same one to measure before and after results. :)

With the compliance cat, and the massive volk wheels on the car (Bakes was told he would lose at least 20kw at wheels when he got the wheels) and the hearbreaker dyno i think its doing okay.

There was no pre-mod dyno sheet on the same dyno. I think we should be able to get it up to about 280ish without any hassles. have to wait and see.

tut tut. should always do a 'before' run on the dyno. otherwise it's hard to diagnose exact problems like this. if you'd done a before run and got 180kw then you'd KNOW nothing is wrong with the current 240 reading. anyway, it's good practice to always do one just to get an idea of the direction the car is going even when doing fairly proven, basic mods it's still worthwhile. it would have told you a lot about the previous and current set-up for a small cost of time and money. :)

with that setup you'd be expecting 290kw +

dropping the exhaust on the dyno would be the 1st thing to check (re compliance cat), or bolt in a decat pipe and see where it goes....

looks good tho, hope you sort out the issue

222rwkw from an rb20 is pretty good... id be happy with that.

LOL, but a different tuner got 234rwkws out of it with a re-tune at less boot, then later 260rwkws with the same boost. I never put it back on the same original 222rwks dyno, seat of the pants and drivability confirmed that power was heading in the right direction.

So why do you lose 20kws with bigger wheels? Is is because they change the gearing, add rotational mass? Might be the reason why my car used to real pretty well because i had 6.2kg forged 17x8" wheels with light littl 235/40/17 tyres

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...