Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my r34 with R1s (N1s afaik) made 289kw on a mainline dyno at 19psi without cat,

and 279 awkw on croydon with the cat.

With a tune and cam gears, it filled the 555cc injectors at stock rail pressure, so the fun

stopped at 5000rpm. (stock fuel pump). I think over 300 would be achievable with N1s

and this matches what jim at croydon said: a nur he had through did that with pfc, better

exhaust and intake.

Over the weekend we put on 2530kais & 700cc, and this week some time, they're gonna

get back to me with a new dyno graph. I'll post up all in a different topic if anyone is

interested. (I'm hoping to get all this crap done in time for the anniversary cruise).

Edited by moneypit

Looking good Bakes. In the real world dyno numbers are just that, numbers. I wouldn't be too worried about getting X kw's .I'm sure the car feels so much better than before and when (if) you take it out on the track you will see the difference.

Great looking car, nicely put together thread and excellent standard of workmanship gone into it as well.

I would be worried if it pulled 240rwkws with the std turbos on the same dyno. If it was on a different dyno then fair enough. LOL i was gutted when my lil RB20 only made 222rwkw after a turbo and ecu upgrade, bigger numbers always make you feel better :thumbsup:

well 240 is not too bad, but still well short of what it should be. stock turbos, 14 pound, a tune and a cat back will usually get around 250 or a bit more with cam gears on a 34. there can be some variance between dynos but still I would have thought the average for that set-up would be 300+ even with a crap cat and anywhere up to 350 is not out of the norm. my old set-up ran 260odd kw with just 15psi on stock turbos with standard dumps + fronts, just cat back, cam gears, PFC and hard pipe kit. yours should be smashing that set-up everywhere. :( hopefully you get some gain without the cat.

0517001bo2.jpg

I would be worried if it pulled 240rwkws with the std turbos on the same dyno. If it was on a different dyno then fair enough. LOL i was gutted when my lil RB20 only made 222rwkw after a turbo and ecu upgrade, bigger numbers always make you feel better :(

actually that's a good point. what did it make before these changes? that will give you the only real measure you need. if it was making 165kw on the same dyno with the stock set-up, and now with more boost, turbos, ecu etc it's making 240 then you know it's just a low reading dyno, but that the gains are there. that's the best way to use a dyno, just use the same one to measure before and after results. :(

actually that's a good point. what did it make before these changes? that will give you the only real measure you need. if it was making 165kw on the same dyno with the stock set-up, and now with more boost, turbos, ecu etc it's making 240 then you know it's just a low reading dyno, but that the gains are there. that's the best way to use a dyno, just use the same one to measure before and after results. :)

With the compliance cat, and the massive volk wheels on the car (Bakes was told he would lose at least 20kw at wheels when he got the wheels) and the hearbreaker dyno i think its doing okay.

There was no pre-mod dyno sheet on the same dyno. I think we should be able to get it up to about 280ish without any hassles. have to wait and see.

tut tut. should always do a 'before' run on the dyno. otherwise it's hard to diagnose exact problems like this. if you'd done a before run and got 180kw then you'd KNOW nothing is wrong with the current 240 reading. anyway, it's good practice to always do one just to get an idea of the direction the car is going even when doing fairly proven, basic mods it's still worthwhile. it would have told you a lot about the previous and current set-up for a small cost of time and money. :)

with that setup you'd be expecting 290kw +

dropping the exhaust on the dyno would be the 1st thing to check (re compliance cat), or bolt in a decat pipe and see where it goes....

looks good tho, hope you sort out the issue

222rwkw from an rb20 is pretty good... id be happy with that.

LOL, but a different tuner got 234rwkws out of it with a re-tune at less boot, then later 260rwkws with the same boost. I never put it back on the same original 222rwks dyno, seat of the pants and drivability confirmed that power was heading in the right direction.

So why do you lose 20kws with bigger wheels? Is is because they change the gearing, add rotational mass? Might be the reason why my car used to real pretty well because i had 6.2kg forged 17x8" wheels with light littl 235/40/17 tyres

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...