Jump to content
SAU Community

Good Tow Cars?


Merli

Recommended Posts

..... isn't the manual rated lower than the auto too? Anyway, isn't the 6 speed auto much better suited to the car, even unladen?

I don't see the logic in towing with an underated tow vehicle, crash it and no insurance for anything, bye bye to both vehicles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The clutches in them do not cope with towing, even with loads under the limit (mind you, the 1600kg limit is for a car with a 65kg driver and nothing else on board) stick with the auto's with the heavy duty tow pack and they are Ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see the logic in towing with an underated tow vehicle, crash it and no insurance for anything, bye bye to both vehicles.

Bingo!!!

Also, something that most people don't know is that if you're towing more than 2000kg, then your trailer must be equipped with brakes on all 4 wheels, and must also have a break away system fitted (so that the trailer brakes automatically apply if the trailer becomes disconnected from the car). Very few car trailers have this unless it's specified as a 2500kg (or more) trailer. That's why you'll see the load rating on all car trailers as 2000kg TOTAL.

I haven't read the wording lately, but I believe that the 2000kg refers to the total trailer mass + the load on the trailer - the downforce on the tow ball (normally about 100kg or so). Note I haven't double checked for a while, so that last bit may not be correct. Best to determine for youself before committing.

The auto Falcons used to have a higher towing capacity than the manuals (in the days of the EL, anyway). Don't know if that's changed in recent times though.

Many modern 4WD's have piddly clutches that aren't really up to the task of regular towing. In the name of making the 4WD's more user friendly for their intended purpose (soccer moms, etc.) they have lightened a lot of the controls by fitting more car-sized components. My PAthfinder will quickly smoke the clutch while towing if I'm not careful, although after 75,000km it is still going strong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many modern 4WD's have piddly clutches that aren't really up to the task of regular towing. In the name of making the 4WD's more user friendly for their intended purpose (soccer moms, etc.) they have lightened a lot of the controls by fitting more car-sized components. My PAthfinder will quickly smoke the clutch while towing if I'm not careful, although after 75,000km it is still going strong.

they shoulda stuck with the power assisted clutch like my 88 GQ TD42 has instead!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What the hell is wrong with heavy clutches anyway? My wife hates these modern light clutches as much as I do. We both loved the heavy clutch in the GTS2 we owned many years ago (was a heavy sumbitch, but great feel - the clutch that is, not my wife :banana: ). all others since then have felt like shopping trolley clutches - very disappointing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been towing my 1200kg car+trailer abit lately with my brand new Holden Ute SS-V and love it. I put the cruise control on the speed limit and it sits on it the whole way everywhere I go. When on a flat road it switches the v8 into 4 cylinder mode and I can do 6L/100km whilst towing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been towing my 1200kg car+trailer abit lately with my brand new Holden Ute SS-V and love it. I put the cruise control on the speed limit and it sits on it the whole way everywhere I go. When on a flat road it switches the v8 into 4 cylinder mode and I can do 6L/100km whilst towing.

IRS :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been towing my 1200kg car+trailer abit lately with my brand new Holden Ute SS-V and love it. I put the cruise control on the speed limit and it sits on it the whole way everywhere I go. When on a flat road it switches the v8 into 4 cylinder mode and I can do 6L/100km whilst towing.

Changed how many rear tyres Ben ?? The IRS on these is a JOKE. My mate had had 3 sets on the back in 50K

Only Commodore/ute that can really tow properly is the VZ Crewman crew cab which has a live rear axel and 2500kg towing capaity. Preferably with a V8.

I have a 6 cylinder one which is marginal/good for towing a car but is great otherwize.

Having said that. You will prob not have an issue cause you car/trailer is so light. The massive trailer and the zed on it where pushing 2000kg. It was a very long trip from QLD.

PICT3904.jpg

Edited by Tektrader69
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah thanks for the comments. I really want a manual and i know that it's rated at less but I'll be getting an aftermarket heavy duty (2000kg) tow bar. will prob wear out the clutch. I only tow every couple of months so hopefully it will be ok. Gotta be better than my VS SS.

I've just read on the ford forums that they flog out tailshaft uni's. Might need to beef up the suspension so it's not dragging on the ground.

I really don't want an old 4WD. They may have the weight to make it legal to tow with but they're slugs. and uncomfortable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, something that most people don't know is that if you're towing more than 2000kg, then your trailer must be equipped with brakes on all 4 wheels, and must also have a break away system fitted (so that the trailer brakes automatically apply if the trailer becomes disconnected from the car). Very few car trailers have this unless it's specified as a 2500kg (or more) trailer. That's why you'll see the load rating on all car trailers as 2000kg TOTAL.

I haven't read the wording lately, but I believe that the 2000kg refers to the total trailer mass + the load on the trailer - the downforce on the tow ball (normally about 100kg or so). Note I haven't double checked for a while, so that last bit may not be correct. Best to determine for youself before committing.

Well my trailer weighs 700 and I'll say my gtst is about 1300 :cool: so I just scrape in under 2000kg.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so you plan to exceed your towing capacity by at least 25%. good idea, what could possibly go wrong?

and your biggest concerns are clutch and unis? legality, safety and insurance don't even rate a mention.

I wish cops actually targetted real safety issues like these rather than putting speed cameras on highway on-ramps...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well my trailer weighs 700 and I'll say my gtst is about 1300 :cool: so I just scrape in under 2000kg.

Sure you can put a two tonne rated towbar on it, but it doesn't mean it will be legal. If the manufacturer states 1600kg, then 1600kg it is.......

(as an aside does anyone know if the legalities of towing still vary massively from state to state? I remember many years ago it was always a drama when towing our 7 metre Sharkcat into NSW because the rules changed dramatically)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so you plan to exceed your towing capacity by at least 25%. good idea, what could possibly go wrong?

and your biggest concerns are clutch and unis? legality, safety and insurance don't even rate a mention.

I wish cops actually targetted real safety issues like these rather than putting speed cameras on highway on-ramps...

Well I've towed the same setup on a 1200kg tow bar coz I didn't have anything else.

Sure you can put a two tonne rated towbar on it, but it doesn't mean it will be legal. If the manufacturer states 1600kg, then 1600kg it is.......

I know it won't be legal but I'll pay the fine. I think it would be over engineered and 1600 is conservative. Manufacturers would have to be on the conservative side.

Back on topic, a F150 LWB with 351 on LPG makes a great tow vehicle.

Yeah but would be a pigg to drive around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've towed far in excess of legal and manufacturer's limits too, the point I am trying to make is now I'm older and smarter I certainly wouldn't be risking (for arguments sake) a 40k tow car, a 30k race car, and a 4k trailer being totally uninsured if I was to have a major accident, keeping in mind if you run into another car and hurt someone, no insurance there either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Changed how many rear tyres Ben ?? The IRS on these is a JOKE. My mate had had 3 sets on the back in 50K

Bought it new and only put 3500km on it so far in 2mths with 1500km of that done in 3 days (towing) so haven't had a chance to wear out the back tyres yet, besides it only gets driven 50-100km in a normal week so i'll have traded it in before it reaches 50,000km.

Only Commodore/ute that can really tow properly is the VZ Crewman crew cab which has a live rear axel and 2500kg towing capaity. Preferably with a V8.

The VZ SS Crewman has a lower towing capacity than my VE SSZ Ute.

Having said that. You will prob not have an issue cause you car/trailer is so light. The massive trailer and the zed on it where pushing 2000kg. It was a very long trip from QLD.

My trailer is rated at 680kg and my car is 560kg so 1240kg all up and usually around 150kg of tools n stuff in the ute tray. You have to look in the rear view mirror and see the car on the trailer to remind yourself that you are actually towing something.

My previous tow car was a 2000 Toyota HiAce 2.4L Auto with 85kw and 200nm (probably 65kw coz it had 350,000km on the clock) that thing struggled just to tow the trailer over speed humps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...