Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just to upset the skewed curve of distribution...W427 :(

I am in no way complaining about the awesomeness of this garage, but if I was in a position to own this I'd have got them in different colours...or I'd be forever comparing shades of red!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277335-take-a-pick/#findComment-4691226
Share on other sites

A picture says a 1000 words, and R35 GTR is a GIANT! :)

worlds1.jpg

wow.

take another photo..

except this time include your house number, street name, and then include the suburb down the bottom :)

lol..

no seriously that is one fine collection you have! Congrats

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277335-take-a-pick/#findComment-4691358
Share on other sites

love them both. if we were talking the monaro 427 that was supposed to go into production at $250K or an R35. I would have to say I'd go the monaro. I love my japanese cars and have had heaps of them inc R35 GTR but deep down I love my aussie monaro and reckon the 427 would be a goer with all the gear that was on them.

one of my favourite cars and i've been in some good ones over the years! I was gutted that they never went ahead with making more.

I mean just look at the engine in the thing...

holden-hrt-427-tmr-4.jpg

and the interior.... hmmmm.

holden-hrt-427-tmr-6.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277335-take-a-pick/#findComment-4692180
Share on other sites

Agreed...the Coupe 60 and the HRT427 were just sex on wheels in their own different rights. Coupe 60 had some beautiful and innovative styling cues (side exhausts on a street car, no B pillar and the bootlip spoiler) which would have been cool if they made it to production. HRT427 was a racing beast made for the street, that would have carried with it immense street cred. Pretty sure the unofficial quartermile on the HRT427 was 12 seconds flat. Of course, if you really want one there are a couple of Melbourne based companies who can get your CV8 pretty similarly set up to it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277335-take-a-pick/#findComment-4693508
Share on other sites

That's exactly why I like this owner's garage. Evidence of no inherent and irrational bias towards a particular type of car...he's tasted the goods on either side and decided he likes both. Which is more than I can say for a couple of people on this forum :yes:

Unless of course it is his wife's car lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277335-take-a-pick/#findComment-4695461
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...