Jump to content
SAU Community

Ben's R32 Gtst Build

sav man

By sav man,
in Motorsport Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted
Oh yes I do rate a bit of gutter talk.

He doesn't moan Damo, but he did say you do when he throws a digit in ya foofa valve.

i moan at less than that Benny.

anyway this has taken a backwards step. Bens away thats why he isnt in on the action in here.

NO rain free weekends in the near future forecast so the progress is gonna be slowed right down.

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

sav man
sav man
sav man
sav man

I ran last weekend at the Symmons Plains 60th annaverary meet. Unfortunately after a good run the engine decided to throw a rod.  I've got the engine out but havn't pulled the sump off yet, I suspect

sav man
sav man

So it’s been over a year since an update. The first event last year was the Poatina Mountain Race, it was pretty much a 7km hill climb with the option for a navigator. I put my girlfriend in the sil

Posted Images

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
  • Author
Posted

damo's is more of an exited squeal, but a singe digit just dosn't cut it anymore.

I'll be back from Hoebart tonight, and i might move my car into the garrage, as dad's gtr needs to have painting and welding done, which is best outside.

plann will be to swap the diff out, and put the gearbox into mine next. And probably start on the wiring

DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted
Been following this very closely..

Im looking at doing something similar very soon too.

How did you electronically remove the HICAS system whithout making the steering go heavy at low speeds?

you will hardly notice the steering. but the idea is and its explained in the hicas removal page is that you remove the hicas lines ect then you will have the hicas warning light on on your dash. this is turned on by the hicas computer which is mounted upside down under the parcel shelf. most people disconnect the computer which interferes with the speed sensitive steering. to keep the speed sensitive steering there is one wire that turns the light on. you simply cut that wire and leave the rest plugged in and walla no light and the speed sensitive steering still works.

have a quick look through the tutorials as i think i put the wire colour to cut in the R32 hicas removal thread.

Ben will be running a R33 pump which if mated to the rb20 harmonic balancer will be heavy anyway.

Are R33 boxes allowed in Tugga Benny? i got ben a super cheap 20 box but id never run one if i had the chance after having a 25 box. i flat shift mine and all sorts, mainly because im unco and cant drive but its pretty cool when mid drift i can slam it from 4th to 3rd with no clutch.

the 25 box is also massively bigger in size and weight and im not sure a Rb2o would have enough torque to get going. LOL

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted
you will hardly notice the steering. but the idea is and its explained in the hicas removal page is that you remove the hicas lines ect then you will have the hicas warning light on on your dash. this is turned on by the hicas computer which is mounted upside down under the parcel shelf. most people disconnect the computer which interferes with the speed sensitive steering. to keep the speed sensitive steering there is one wire that turns the light on. you simply cut that wire and leave the rest plugged in and walla no light and the speed sensitive steering still works.

have a quick look through the tutorials as i think i put the wire colour to cut in the R32 hicas removal thread.

Ben will be running a R33 pump which if mated to the rb20 harmonic balancer will be heavy anyway.

Are R33 boxes allowed in Tugga Benny? i got ben a super cheap 20 box but id never run one if i had the chance after having a 25 box. i flat shift mine and all sorts, mainly because im unco and cant drive but its pretty cool when mid drift i can slam it from 4th to 3rd with no clutch.

the 25 box is also massively bigger in size and weight and im not sure a Rb2o would have enough torque to get going. LOL

Yeh im quite certain since the regs state the housing must be original, hence you can't use a 33 box.

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

yeah, right..

I already locked it out hydrolically, now its just time to remove the ECU and remove the harness from it.

There are two connector plugs n the back of the hicas ecu. I have already disconnected one from the ecu, the light is off and the speed seneitive steering is still working as the steering is still light at low speeds.

  • 2 weeks later...
sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
  • Author
Posted

got a care package from japan today :happy:

gallery_5985_3354_1547471.jpg

hooray the box isn't filled with dirty hypermax. Brembo F40's, and R33 GT-R rear Bremo's, with rotors, and brand new Endless CC-R pads.

gallery_5985_3354_763121.jpg

gallery_5985_3354_320641.jpg

The F40's are bigger than i thought, notisbly bigger than std R33 fronts.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well now I've finished Dad's GT-R, so i get to put my car back in the garrage.

But i've been buying some more parts from Yahoo auctions

Buddy Club P1 QF 17x8 (6.2kg each)

600x450-2009013000010.jpg

90mm Titanium exhaust

giyugtr-img600x450-12572525874wev9f70612.jpg

RB26 intake.

600x450-2009101000001.jpg

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
got a care package from japan today :down:

gallery_5985_3354_1547471.jpg

hooray the box isn't filled with dirty hypermax. Brembo F40's, and R33 GT-R rear Bremo's, with rotors, and brand new Endless CC-R pads.

gallery_5985_3354_763121.jpg

gallery_5985_3354_320641.jpg

The F40's are bigger than i thought, notisbly bigger than std R33 fronts.

This is funny, you are running the same calipers as me, though i am runnng 343mm rotors rather then 324. I have a Trust Ti exhaust as well and the truly scry thing is i hve been looking for 17x9 QFs :)

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

there is a pair of 17x9 QF's on Yahoo now http://auctions.nengun.com/item/g79810064 , they look really good with the dish (that comes from the extra width), the qf's are pretty hard to find. I have to run 17x8 for Targa :down: I'm running 332mm rotors.

Edited by sav man

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...