Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wished that the air bag wasnt there when I tried to get to the 8mm bolts, but it is and the way I went about it was to read up Predators Dash removal and then instead of removing the dash I proped it up enough to get my hand in and used a socket with an allen key to twist it, worked for me and now NO more noise.

Thanks to all who contributed without your help that noise would of drove me batty.

Edited by R33S2
  • 2 weeks later...

OK so i took the glove box out to have a look at this vent control box, this on a GTR

can only just see the arm that moves when you select different outlet(feet, face ect) but sounds like it doesn't move on all selections, is this normal?. When it does move to a different selction the air doesn't come out on that selection.

At first i thought the arm had come off but it look like it is still connected(im gonna bring a mirrior home from work to double check).

Also the cluncking/clicking sound gets louder then softer

ANY HELP/INFO WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED

Cheers

  • 3 months later...

This defeated me yesterday on a S2 R33. I loosed everything to get clearance but I couldn't get my hand in there far enough to have any idea what needed loosening. For me I would need to loosen the dash and lift it up to see what I am doing. I cbf taking the dash out after spending 1.5hr under there trying to get it loosened and tightened back up. My neck said enough was enough.

  • 2 weeks later...

if any one has a spare one I'll take it! I couldnt get the arm off either, applied too much force and it shattered into a million peices.. tried superglueing the lot but it was just a fail so i binned it.

Any help appreciated :)

Cheers!

Just removed the motor myself today.

I took some pictures, so I could see what it was I was trying to pull out. Figure it might help some of you.

1st pic is front of the dash

2nd pic is the actual motor itself. You have to wedge your hands in there to touch the motor.

I used a small 8mm wrench. I found it easier to remove bolt 1 of 2 with my right hand by just crouching in front of the car.

Bolt 2 of 2 I actually lied down on the passenger floor, so my face would be facing upwards and I used both hands to loosen the bolt.

Any other tips other than grease to prevent the gears from chipping again??

5907234173_131bc319e6.jpg

5907790274_d6ae329c1b.jpg

post-81368-0-40100100-1309927384_thumb.jpg

post-81368-0-40230700-1309927392_thumb.jpg

  • 3 months later...

geunine item is $250 PN 27736-70T00

dash removal is about the only real way to do it. I looked at it with the idea of accessing it WITHOUT pulling the dash - pass. dash out is far easier.

  • 1 month later...

did in my s1 r33 it works great no more noise :thumbsup: took me about half an hour

but +1 for the wearing gloves because you WILL stab yourself with the screw drivers!!!

also you can get all the clips of with out breaking them you just have to work your way aroundwith a small screwdriver untill it comes apart...and be very patient :/

  • 2 months later...

I had my dash apart for other reasons and swapped in a low k's halfcut item while I could. Problem solved. I did try and fix the old one, but that arm was not going to budge.

Now the one for the heater/air is dead. It started out with clicking, as it started not knowing when to stop. Now I think it's broken a tooth off the gear because the clicking has gone, but sometimes i'll get mad heat when it's set to 18 degrees with or without AC. The temporary fix is to up it to 32, then back to 18 and it seems to move the flapper and then it's all cool again.

Anyone know how to change that one? I'm not taking the dash out again! ;o)

The original noise happened when changing modes from face/feet/demister etc, so I assume the part we are changing here is the "mode" actuator in the attached pics. From memory, it seemed positioned more like the Mixer actuator. The noise (when it started) was closer to the drivers side for the second actuator issue... which appears to be the "mode" actuator. Makes no sense that way around though!

post-3573-0-38646400-1328560353_thumb.png

post-3573-0-12279100-1328560355_thumb.png

I had my dash apart for other reasons and swapped in a low k's halfcut item while I could. Problem solved. I did try and fix the old one, but that arm was not going to budge.

Now the one for the heater/air is dead. It started out with clicking, as it started not knowing when to stop. Now I think it's broken a tooth off the gear because the clicking has gone, but sometimes i'll get mad heat when it's set to 18 degrees with or without AC. The temporary fix is to up it to 32, then back to 18 and it seems to move the flapper and then it's all cool again.

Anyone know how to change that one? I'm not taking the dash out again! ;o)

The original noise happened when changing modes from face/feet/demister etc, so I assume the part we are changing here is the "mode" actuator in the attached pics. From memory, it seemed positioned more like the Mixer actuator. The noise (when it started) was closer to the drivers side for the second actuator issue... which appears to be the "mode" actuator. Makes no sense that way around though!

post-3573-0-38646400-1328560353_thumb.png

post-3573-0-12279100-1328560355_thumb.png

Yeah i have the issue with hot/cold with my r33 S1 also. had it for about 8 years now. in winter when i need hot, i up it to 32 degrees while car is on, i go under the dash on the drivers side, and i give the valve a helping turn, and it completes its cycle.

When i want cold in summer, i lower temp to 18, go under dash again and turn it back. been doing it so long now, its just normal for me now :)

in regards to this thread though, i also have the clicking issue so going to give it a go when i get home. I havent had face vents enabled in the whole time ive owned the car. When i eventually get it going, i expect 8 years of dust build up to blow out. :)

Yeah i have the issue with hot/cold with my r33 S1 also. had it for about 8 years now. in winter when i need hot, i up it to 32 degrees while car is on, i go under the dash on the drivers side, and i give the valve a helping turn, and it completes its cycle.

When i want cold in summer, i lower temp to 18, go under dash again and turn it back. been doing it so long now, its just normal for me now :)

in regards to this thread though, i also have the clicking issue so going to give it a go when i get home. I havent had face vents enabled in the whole time ive owned the car. When i eventually get it going, i expect 8 years of dust build up to blow out. :)

LOL!! That's pretty dusty! I get my aircompressor and the long nozzle blower and give it a blast now and then with the windows down and the doors open.

As for the helping hand, it sounds like the one we have the problem with is easier to get to? I haven't had a proper look yet.

Well i did this also. however, araldite not strong enough. the lever started to turn, then started clicking again until the lever snapped. tried it twice. maybe the rack where the lever fits into is caught else where and doesnt want to complete its full path.

ive given up for now, unless someone has any ideas

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...