Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At te moment, the motor will go in stock, with a set of extractors and 3" exhaust, and fully tuned. Fully tuned around 220rwkw. But a VERY big useable power band.

Once I put the cam in, 280/290 rwkw with still a very useable power band (2500 rpm to 7000rpm and instant throttle, and keeping the super short diff ratio)

Pretty much well details on the swap, basically standard 5.7L 6speed manual running an adaptronic e1280s, camber arms, new coil overs, new seats, under the dash stripped out (no air con or stereo shit). Still debating on whether I strip the sound deadenin or not. Being setup for sprints, hill climbs and the rare cruise.

there is a kit that swaps the starter motor to the other side if that helps....

Thats what the old commy boys do anyway..

http://www.rodshop.com.au/holden/vl.htm

http://www.rodshop.com.au/trans_conversions/ap/ap130.htm

for 995$ it includes a new starter and could save alot of headaches..

there were alot of similarities between VLs and skylines, I remember seeing a VL In a magazine that had a complete GTR drivetrain and the guy said it almost fit straight in so Id be looking at what else may fit from these kits, the extractors maybe close to a fit even..

Cheers Arthur, that's very interesting there indeed. Thanks for the link.

I'll speak further with Brad about it.

Edit: Although a new starter is only around $330... So it is a fair expense more for a few bolts and the spacer plate...

I've just fitted one of those "kits" into a vr commodore with a gen3 manual conversion. It is a pain in the frickin backside, the bolts supplied werent the right length or even thread type for the plate, it was missing a spacer for the bolts to. Bolts that were supplied were m6 thread, thread in plate is 1/4unc. In the instructions it also doesnt tell you to machine out the bellhousing so that the starter motor gear can actually come out of the housing.

Just a heads up.

I've just fitted one of those "kits" into a vr commodore with a gen3 manual conversion. It is a pain in the frickin backside, the bolts supplied werent the right length or even thread type for the plate, it was missing a spacer for the bolts to. Bolts that were supplied were m6 thread, thread in plate is 1/4unc. In the instructions it also doesnt tell you to machine out the bellhousing so that the starter motor gear can actually come out of the housing.

Just a heads up.

That sounds perfectly normal for what comes out of CRS actually

I'm not bad mouthing it fully it is a well thought up bit of kit, BUT for the price you pay for it they could have made it a complete bolt on affair.

Since Rod Hadfield sold CRS the quality/care factor of their bits has gone down hill

I did call them in regards to custom/one off bits and pieces too, and they no longer do one offs. I was informed all that they will do is churn out "kits".

I've spoken with brad in regards to the steering rack changes, and I feel much safer letting him f**k with the rack then buy that kit and not know what will happen.

We've discussed things and the geometry will be "normal", the rack is being moved towards the drivers side, and then extended on the passenger side so that we don't have different length arms.

Yeah sounds like you have a cluey man on the job anyway, I wish you the best of luck with it and I will be watching with anticipation for sure

If you dont mind me asking what sort of budget are you hoping to achieve the conversion for, not including the engine cost..Or would you rather not think about it :D

Love my V8s and have thought about it plenty of times..

Since Rod Hadfield sold CRS the quality/care factor of their bits has gone down hill

This is news to me, when did that happen?

Yeah sounds like you have a cluey man on the job anyway, I wish you the best of luck with it and I will be watching with anticipation for sure

If you dont mind me asking what sort of budget are you hoping to achieve the conversion for, not including the engine cost..Or would you rather not think about it :D

Less than what he has spent on breaking RB30's over the years :nyaanyaa:

Yeah sounds like you have a cluey man on the job anyway, I wish you the best of luck with it and I will be watching with anticipation for sure

If you dont mind me asking what sort of budget are you hoping to achieve the conversion for, not including the engine cost..Or would you rather not think about it :D

Love my V8s and have thought about it plenty of times..

Well everything included, engine, box, clutch, ecu, wiring, etc etc (There's lots of little shit!) I'll be happy if I can get out of this for under 12K. After doing so many motors, I know that this will go over budget... But I do have a heap of spare parts (RB25 Gearbox, head etc) that are all up for sale to help compensate)

And I did pick up my motor and gearbox for an absolute steal (And clutch!)...

Also, that's not including everything I'm doing suspension wise, as well as inside the cabin. (New Seats, redoing bits behind the dash, gauges etc)

yeah i was thinking you be lucky to get it done under 10k so you have confirmed that..

But honestly if I ever was to spend money on my car I would do this before an rb30' . no doubt a bit of hassle for inital setup but so much potential..

does that money include any chassis bracing or engineering reports or whatever for rego or is that just to get it fitted and running for the track..Id love to do it just to see the 'WTF' look on a coppers face when he popped the bonnet :laugh:

That's in fitted and running.

No engineers report. Nothing :(

This thing sparcely sees the road, it only ever used it's rego to go to events really ( half the events it went to itcame back on a trailer)

To be honest, by the time I got this car running with the rb30 the first time, it'll cost me the same as the v8. Considering I was about to build a forged 30, a few more grand for this is way better!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...