Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dunno what it is, but Cadbury milk choc gives me a very slight allergic reaction. Nestle, lindt etc are all fine, just cadbury, and only their milk choc, their white, mixed and dark is fine.

learn to read nga.

Nga wat!

LOL!

anyone got rc drift cars here? they are friggin sweet.

Hell yeah, Tamiya TT-01, S15, 240Z and RX7 FD shells, TE37's +3 and +6 Offsets. (Offset + and - are opposite to real wheels)

I really should get back into it.

yeh i just bought one last week fkn awesome fun. got r32 gtr shell led headlights/taillights tt01 as well.

need more offset got +2 but to sunken haha

+2?

Dude, my +3's are sunk as fuck! :D

Go +6 to fill out or +9 for Poke.

TE37's and WORK Meister S1 are sic with the deep lip, which I have.

nah need to go lower offset to stick out higher offset will sit in.. i need +/- 0 or there arbouts i thinks

:P you talking about RC car or real car..?

:D

+/- 0 = Stock, no deep lip nothing

post pics of ya cars dood

posta217006s15.jpg

posta217009s151.jpg

posta217012s153.jpg

NEEDS MORE LOW!

Cuz I have to trim the body shell so it does not scrap the ground.

TE37 +6 Offset.

posta218474240z.jpg

posta218475240z0.jpg

posta218477240z2.jpg

Still needs more low, trimming still needed on body shell

WORK Meister +6 Offset.

EPIC RX7 FD!

Epic poke and it is just the stock Tamiya RX7 FD Body Shell. (SAU Member AE92's car)

a0ieqf.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l&hl=rc+car = Check out the tread.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...