Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No access to 20 fat kids so it'll have to do. The power was almost ramping vertically when it started spinning and then hovered around 550awhp from 5500-8500.

Yeah 6262 T4 divided 0.8 rear

Put a large pig in the boot.. hahaah

Ok so last night we started my car for the first time since been built with JE pistons/Brian Crower rods/ precision 6266 .84 T4 divided/ GFB 50mm external gate etc etc)

We gave it a rough road tune and done about 120kms, first impressions is wow ! Soo much better then my previous t517z twin turbo setup, picks up boost in 4th at 60kmh in no time at all, very very happy with it, I was abit concerned going a turbo this big but I am over the moon with it

Won't know proper power/boost results till I go to Jez after run in period,

Ok so last night we started my car for the first time since been built with JE pistons/Brian Crower rods/ precision 6266 .84 T4 divided/ GFB 50mm external gate etc etc)

We gave it a rough road tune and done about 120kms, first impressions is wow ! Soo much better then my previous t517z twin turbo setup, picks up boost in 4th at 60kmh in no time at all, very very happy with it, I was abit concerned going a turbo this big but I am over the moon with it

Won't know proper power/boost results till I go to Jez after run in period,

Awesome news.... at a rough guess when is it coming on? What cams? You located on central coast or make the travel to jez?

Wouldn't mind having a looksie before I purchase mine...

At a glance we saw 1.35bar at 4500rpm ish...stock cams, cam gears set on 0

That aint toooo bad considering it's a stock capacity engine (give or take) and the power potential of this bloody thing!

Hurry up.... results

Just over 1000whp on a Dynojet with a PT6766 on E98. I know of other cars making equivalent or more actual power but their runs have been done on lower reading Mustang dynos so the magic 1000jp number never appeared. Even though thus wouldn't do it all dynos it is hellishly good power for the size turbo :

LOL Simon, that car is fast. Sky is also blue, but I just wanted to say it.

How do you get your freaking helmet to fit? Im only 180cm and a helmet like yours in my S14 does nothing but trade colour schemes with my hood lining.

Is the Bride mounted super low or your shorter than me or what? It shits me to tears, I need to lay my seat back heaps and slide around like a moron at the track lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...