Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been running my BC RM's for about a year now. Good mix of daily, hills, track, and motorkhana.

Love 'em. They haven't missed a beat. I'd almost go as far as saying they're better than the Cuscos they replaced.

Have had the BR's in the car for a few weeks now and so far so good. Stiffer than my old hks's, so you feel the road a bit more which you get used to if you've had coilovers before. I've yet to test them on a track to see how they perform, cant wait. :thumbsup:

  • 3 months later...

just got a set of the BR's for my r33gtst. Quality/finish of them looks good. I was EXTREMELY sceptical of the 8/6 spring rate, as the tein superstreets in my ST185 Celica were rated much softer (can't remember exact rates, they are on tein site somewhere) and are stiff as hell, but I dunno, maybe BC use a different way of measuring their 8/6 rate lol, cause they definitely aren't harsh. I would put the feel of them about 20% stiffer than the stock suspension I had, with the damper adjustment 7 clicks from full softness on the BC's. So I've found them definitely streetable. Was going to get 6/4 spring rate but was cautioned against it by salesperson, and glad I didn't, would have been too soft.

It depends on the suspension design of each car as to what spring rates will work, you cant compare different spring rates on different cars...

just got a set of the BR's for my r33gtst. Quality/finish of them looks good. I was EXTREMELY sceptical of the 8/6 spring rate, as the tein superstreets in my ST185 Celica were rated much softer (can't remember exact rates, they are on tein site somewhere) and are stiff as hell, but I dunno, maybe BC use a different way of measuring their 8/6 rate lol, cause they definitely aren't harsh. I would put the feel of them about 20% stiffer than the stock suspension I had, with the damper adjustment 7 clicks from full softness on the BC's. So I've found them definitely streetable. Was going to get 6/4 spring rate but was cautioned against it by salesperson, and glad I didn't, would have been too soft.

  • 1 month later...

I've been running the BR series in my r33 gts-t for 12 months now. Done about 15,000km of city/ country road driving.

The justjap guy said the difference between the BR and the V1 (cheaper one) was a bigger diameter damper, he said if you were gonna track then a bigger volume shock wouldn't heat up as quick. That and the fancy gold instead of red. :-)

Had no dramas, they are pretty stiff springs but the damping adjustment range is huge. I tend to go between 10-15 depending on where i'm driving. Haven't gone below 20 as it rolls around too much for my liking.

Mine did start to squeak/ creak at the front but it's normal to go back and re-tighten new suspension anyway after a while.

I tightened the lower lockring (which hadn't budged, got maybe 1/16th of a turn in) and did the same for the upper 2 lockrings. (got maybe 1/4 turn in). Also tightened top mounts too and all noise disappeared. So if anyone else having noise issues get in there with spanners and make sure everything is tight!

im thinking of geting a set of BC BR coilovers for my r32 gtr, would the standard 8kg/6kg spring rates be way too harsh for sydney roads? would the dampening on softest setting be ok for daily driving then turned to stiffer for mountain runs etc? or should i opt for 6kg/4kg spring rates?

im currently running nismo s-tune coilovers, damper adjustable but not height adjustable, i want to lower the car abit more so these need to go soon....

any info of spring rates/damper settings and how it rides on normal roads would be great !

thanks

thanks

i think the nismo coilovers i have now are about 6/4 spring rates and i run them max stiff on the damper adjustments (only has 4 way adjustments) and thats fine for sydney roads lol

might go with the 8/6 rates and just fine tune the damper settings :)

dont run your V1's at lowest dampening. i thought this too as it would be softer, but they bounce thru the wayward stupid roads too much that way. i found stiffening the dampers actually made for a much nicer ride, 10 at the front 8 at the rear (from zero) they are a little more harsh on sudden hits and pot holes, but they arent to hard to avoid if your watching the road.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've been running the BR series in my r33 gts-t for 12 months now. Done about 15,000km of city/ country road driving.

The justjap guy said the difference between the BR and the V1 (cheaper one) was a bigger diameter damper, he said if you were gonna track then a bigger volume shock wouldn't heat up as quick. That and the fancy gold instead of red. :-)

Had no dramas, they are pretty stiff springs but the damping adjustment range is huge. I tend to go between 10-15 depending on where i'm driving. Haven't gone below 20 as it rolls around too much for my liking.

Mine did start to squeak/ creak at the front but it's normal to go back and re-tighten new suspension anyway after a while.

I tightened the lower lockring (which hadn't budged, got maybe 1/16th of a turn in) and did the same for the upper 2 lockrings. (got maybe 1/4 turn in). Also tightened top mounts too and all noise disappeared. So if anyone else having noise issues get in there with spanners and make sure everything is tight!

Hay mate could you provide me the contact to the guy that said that ^ or just ask for me - if the V1s give you more coilover to rim clearance over the bigger piston BRs...

Or if they have slightly different mounting mounts, so effectively the clearance is the same even though the diameters are different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...