Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Couldn't tell you who it was just a sale guy at justjap. The dampers are inside the coils so I imagine it makes piss all difference to rim clearance. Mounting would be the same I imagine. Call justjap to confirm though but I can't see it being much differece, if any.

The 8/6 are fine on the road for the R33, but it is a larger heavier car.I've got an ADM S15 and was thinking 4/4, 5/4 or something.

Not too such about having equal rate front and back mate.

You don't have much travel on the front as in the rear. You'd have to have the car pretty high (near stock) to not get it to slam on the tire when braking into a corner.

  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys i just put the BC's in my car - BR type on my 34 n/a coupe.

ive got them on the softest setting possible, and its great.

only problem is when the roads were wet yesterday after a long dry period, after turning a corner the tyres would loose traction under acceleration - even very lightly accelerating (i was driving granny spec, since i know roads tend to be quite slippery when it rains after a dry period)

is this somewhat normal? my car has never lost traction so badly or as much as yesterday in the 3 years ive had it so far

hey guys i just put the BC's in my car - BR type on my 34 n/a coupe.

ive got them on the softest setting possible, and its great.

only problem is when the roads were wet yesterday after a long dry period, after turning a corner the tyres would loose traction under acceleration - even very lightly accelerating (i was driving granny spec, since i know roads tend to be quite slippery when it rains after a dry period)

is this somewhat normal? my car has never lost traction so badly or as much as yesterday in the 3 years ive had it so far

Did you lower the car when you put the coilovers in? This will mess up your alignment, which can give you traction issues

Did you lower the car when you put the coilovers in? This will mess up your alignment, which can give you traction issues

yeah the coilovers lowered it massively, it was on stock suspension before

thanks for that mate cleared it up well! I need to pop by bridgestone anyway, one of my studs broke when the wheels were being removed.

thanks again, glad its a somewhat easy fix!

hey guys i just put the BC's in my car - BR type on my 34 n/a coupe.

big difference from stock suspension hey, i had some V1's installed set at about 8 from softest. havent lost traction yet (driving dry or wet) on some of the crappiest roads brisbane has to offer.

yeah its a huge difference, brings a smile to my face everytime i go for a drive still haha

thankfully its not too stiff, my kidneys are still intact! I was pretty worried about that.

Will be even better once i get my alignment sorted and the wheel nut fixed up :)

Ill get some pics up once i get time to detail my car ric :)

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

interesting thread there eightsixboy, thanks!

found this on there

lowerbreaklr.jpg

the guy who posted this has since not replied, i wonder how its going for him lol

Couldn't get the link to work; what's the context behind the broken strut?

That would be the weakest part of the damper. I imagine it would happen to most thread adjustable dampers in a crash.

Quite possible; I'm more wondering if they're implying that the coilover breaking caused the car to crash, or this is what they found after a car crashed & decided it was the cause; rather than an effect.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...