Jump to content
SAU Community

Injector Cleaning And Flow Test

Merc

By Merc,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted
I got mine done at;

Expert Injector Clean

3/56 Smith road

Springvale, vic

Cleaned, new seals, flow tested. $30 each injector. 6 injectors = $198 incl gst

Wow bit much. Got mine cleaned and flow tested with seals fir $20 each.

  • 5 months later...
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Nah haven't...I get my shit done at Petroject...who are now Logicar...standard sort of price ~$35 inc. GST for reconditioning and flow testing.

Note that there is a difference between simply cleaning injectors (some mechanical workshops will just run injector cleaner through them or ultrasonically clean) and reconditioning them with new seals/filters/O-rings.

  • 2 years later...
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Resurrecting an old thread just in case anyone else is googling the same.

I just had a set of injectors flow tested by Injectorsonline in Springvale VIC, good quick service at the right price, recommended. Worked great by post, too.

I got a quote from someone else at almost $40 each to test and service, which doesn't really make sense with a second hand set...

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

It does if you're buying top shelf injectors - basically renders the injectors new, all things equal.

Did injectorsonline replace o rings, filters and end caps?

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

Injectors online is same as expert Injector clean isn't it.....same address.

also here's a

Tip for fresh players...only ask for an injector test...as its only about 8$ each and quite often they don't need cleaning...I mean I had 6 tested and only one needed to be cleaned...all up cost me about 60$..If you ask them to clean them all they will whether they need it or not.and charge accordingly...I mean why pay to clean injectors that aren't dirty...

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Spot on Artz, I was after just a flow test, not cleaning. I'm sure the price would have been different for a full clean.

Birds, I got them to visually inspect the supplied o-rings, all good.

Odium Grand Master

Odium

Posted
Posted

If you're putting new injectors in, I'd be replacing the o-rings since they cheap as chips and even ones which look good could be on the verge of breaking down...

The time/effort involved to replace them once they're in the car is too much :P

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

As Simon said...O rings are like timing belts...they can look as good after 10km as they do 100,000. Considering they are like 50 cents each, it's worth doing for the peace of mind IMO. Hopefully you don't have any issues.

Always rmemeber too people, if you're installing your own injectors, put a rubber safe lubricant like Vaseline on the O rings so they seat properly in the rail and manifold.

Plattsy Grand Master

Plattsy

Posted
Posted

As Simon said...O rings are like timing belts...they can look as good after 10km as they do 100,000. Considering they are like 50 cents each, it's worth doing for the peace of mind IMO. Hopefully you don't have any issues.

Always rmemeber too people, if you're installing your own injectors, put a rubber safe lubricant like Vaseline on the O rings so they seat properly in the rail and manifold.

you have plenty of vaseline laying around birds? :touch:

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I didn't think Vaso was safe to use on rubberz... KY's the go. :P

Considering that the clean and test is half the price of new injectors in some cases, I know which way I would be going... Xspurt 1000's please. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...