Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got mine done at;

Expert Injector Clean

3/56 Smith road

Springvale, vic

Cleaned, new seals, flow tested. $30 each injector. 6 injectors = $198 incl gst

Wow bit much. Got mine cleaned and flow tested with seals fir $20 each.

  • 5 months later...

Nah haven't...I get my shit done at Petroject...who are now Logicar...standard sort of price ~$35 inc. GST for reconditioning and flow testing.

Note that there is a difference between simply cleaning injectors (some mechanical workshops will just run injector cleaner through them or ultrasonically clean) and reconditioning them with new seals/filters/O-rings.

  • 2 years later...

Resurrecting an old thread just in case anyone else is googling the same.

I just had a set of injectors flow tested by Injectorsonline in Springvale VIC, good quick service at the right price, recommended. Worked great by post, too.

I got a quote from someone else at almost $40 each to test and service, which doesn't really make sense with a second hand set...

It does if you're buying top shelf injectors - basically renders the injectors new, all things equal.

Did injectorsonline replace o rings, filters and end caps?

Injectors online is same as expert Injector clean isn't it.....same address.

also here's a

Tip for fresh players...only ask for an injector test...as its only about 8$ each and quite often they don't need cleaning...I mean I had 6 tested and only one needed to be cleaned...all up cost me about 60$..If you ask them to clean them all they will whether they need it or not.and charge accordingly...I mean why pay to clean injectors that aren't dirty...

Spot on Artz, I was after just a flow test, not cleaning. I'm sure the price would have been different for a full clean.

Birds, I got them to visually inspect the supplied o-rings, all good.

If you're putting new injectors in, I'd be replacing the o-rings since they cheap as chips and even ones which look good could be on the verge of breaking down...

The time/effort involved to replace them once they're in the car is too much :P

As Simon said...O rings are like timing belts...they can look as good after 10km as they do 100,000. Considering they are like 50 cents each, it's worth doing for the peace of mind IMO. Hopefully you don't have any issues.

Always rmemeber too people, if you're installing your own injectors, put a rubber safe lubricant like Vaseline on the O rings so they seat properly in the rail and manifold.

As Simon said...O rings are like timing belts...they can look as good after 10km as they do 100,000. Considering they are like 50 cents each, it's worth doing for the peace of mind IMO. Hopefully you don't have any issues.

Always rmemeber too people, if you're installing your own injectors, put a rubber safe lubricant like Vaseline on the O rings so they seat properly in the rail and manifold.

you have plenty of vaseline laying around birds? :touch:

I didn't think Vaso was safe to use on rubberz... KY's the go. :P

Considering that the clean and test is half the price of new injectors in some cases, I know which way I would be going... Xspurt 1000's please. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...