Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, definitely get some adjustable cam gears before the tune so they can be adjusted too when it's tuned.

as far as brand. envy imports in sydney make good ones. they use standard gears that they cut the centre out of and fit an adjustable piece. this is good as the outer parts is still factory (steel and strong). some alloy gears suffer from the teeth wearing but these wont. and with 5 fasteners they shouldn't slip either. apart from those I also like the tomei and trust gears. other workshops around also make their own using standard gears like envy does too, as long as they are made properly they are a good option.

Cheers Beer Baron just sent envy an email!

  • Replies 467
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well I managed to pick up some flag-r ohlins last night. Got them for 89500 yen + shipping. Just gotta organize 6k and 8k swift springs for them now. And Barron ur right the springs are cheap, just under 15000 yen a pair :)

600k coilovers for 89k? Whats wrong with them?

I agree with Marlin above most definitely regarding adjustable bushes.

I would also like to go back to diff centres, particularly if anyone has experience with Torsion diffs in the front like that offered by Quaife instead of a 1.0/1.5 way? Would it be a better option? I am not sure if they are rebuildable like a Nismo 1.0/1.5/2.0 which uses clutch type plates.

The Quaiffe diffs are fundamentally different to the friction plate types from Nismo etc.

They come with a lifetime guarantee.

See here.

http://www.quaife.co.uk/differentials

I'll proudly stand up here and say my car has only Fulcrum eccentric bushes in the front and rear upper arms and castor rods :)

That's legal for the rallies I do, and cheap! I'm also a tight arse :D

I'd rather spend the money on fuel and rubber to practice. I figure it's easier to teach me to drive it quicker than spend time and money on arms.

Kaido, my suggestion is do the minimum required to get it track reliable, and feel the car out, making changes only if you think there will be a tangiable improvement. I don't see much point in throwing a catalogue at it and endlessly chasing the right heights and settings.

Advised settings differ from everyone around the country. I've lost track of the PMs I've received asking for my basic settings, only to be told I'm blatantly wrong! Lol

My R 32 R had Whiteline eccentric bushes in it with a slightly lowered front ride height & Cusco castor rods. It destroyed the bushes at Wanneroo iwithin one days running. I would reckon a few other people have had that experience.

At the end of the day you need to address the upper link & mount so that it lasts & so that you get some front end grip.

In the absence of anyone making a decent front upper arm that can use bushes I made my own. Teamed with a Mismo link bracket (which is a stock with with different drill holes) it works fine.

Marlin is 100% right also. I have seen alot of people with flash cars that couldn't drive out of sight on a dark night. For anyone in WA who wants to learn they could do alot worse that the the WASCC Competition Driving school. For $200 bucks it is a good way to spend some money. There is one on the 1st November.

The Quaiffe diffs are fundamentally different to the friction plate types from Nismo etc.

They come with a lifetime guarantee.

See here.

http://www.quaife.co.uk/differentials

Yes I know they are much different. Would love to hear feedback of someone who has used one? Missed that bit about lifetime guarantee that is good to know!

http://www.quaife.co.uk/catalogue/products/qdf3l

P.O.A makes me nervous :)

600k coilovers for 89k? Whats wrong with them?

No idea. Got my mate having a good look over them before they get sent here. Anyone know what those blue circles are?

Im thinking cut helper springs but then again it doesnt make sense to include them in a sale.

post-38653-1283249094_thumb.jpg

Yes I know they are much different. Would love to hear feedback of someone who has used one? Missed that bit about lifetime guarantee that is good to know!

http://www.quaife.co.uk/catalogue/products/qdf3l

P.O.A makes me nervous :D

Well ask & you may be surprised. They are (from memory) more expensive than the Japanese stuff but not massively so. Also it probably depends on the exchange rate a bit too so it would be worth asking the question.

No idea. Got my mate having a good look over them before they get sent here. Anyone know what those blue circles are?

Im thinking cut helper springs but then again it doesnt make sense to include them in a sale.

the two blue little circles by themselves are spring insulators. just pieces of rubber. the blue bits on the shocks between the main springs and the lower spring perch are helper springs. just there to keep the springs captive under droop.

the springs fitted to the shocks are swift. that bronze colour is the swift 'default' spring colour. do you know what rates they are? good score.

Cheers mate, spring rates in them now are 10k front and rear, they also come with a pair of those mines springs (pictured) but they are 9k rates. I'm gonna grab a new set of swift 8k fronts and 6k rears for them.

Just an update return home from my one week holiday to find my nice new arc filters had come :D also waiting on my hks piping kit, pfc dejtro and hks racing front pipe.

Need to find myself a good ebc dobt really like the bleed value, tossing up between the hks evc or blitz id3. The hks is more pricey but has a boost scarmble on a trigger function.

Finally got around to working on the gtr today.

Std Gtr brakes off! AP Racing Brakes on!

Now just need to replace the disc and pads on the rear and install the braided brake lines and the brakes are done! Will be using Shell Racing Fluid again

dsc00022m.jpg

dsc00024t.jpg

dsc00027ih.jpg

Ok Just some question regarding the brakes

Should i remove the stone guards? i have already remove a section as it was hitting the dog bone.

Will it help with cooling or is it not worth it?

And does anyone know if rear brake lines are the same for the gtr and the r33 gtst?

Ok Just some question regarding the brakes

Should i remove the stone guards? i have already remove a section as it was hitting the dog bone.

Will it help with cooling or is it not worth it?

And does anyone know if rear brake lines are the same for the gtr and the r33 gtst?

Take the stone guards off, and run ducting from the front of the car to the back of the brakes.

99% certain that the brake lines are the same between R32GTR and R33GTS.

Take the stone guards off, and run ducting from the front of the car to the back of the brakes.

99% certain that the brake lines are the same between R32GTR and R33GTS.

Not sure if this is what you meant, but you're best bet is to duct air in behind the rotor hat to the vanes on the centre of the rotor. If you duct straight onto the rotor itself you are asking for warping and cracking.

Not sure if this is what you meant, but you're best bet is to duct air in behind the rotor hat to the vanes on the centre of the rotor. If you duct straight onto the rotor itself you are asking for warping and cracking.

There are a couple things to note:

1. At the rear the bushes for one of the suspension links is awfully close to the rotor. Have a good look and a think about it before you start grinding off stone guards.

2. The inner pads will run hotter than the outer pads - with or without stone guards removed. It is good practice to check to tapered pad wear on the inner pad as it is common even on callipers that have staggered piston sizes.

Blah, never had an issue in 10+ years of R32 stone gaurd off action :cool:

Well, neither have I but I took the precaution of taping up the upright & link with some heat reflective tape to make sure it kept cool. Mabe if the rotten thing weren't so fat we wouldn't have this problem. Ateast the backs don't get anywhere near as hot as the front, but the inside pads wear alot faster than the outers.

Well, neither have I but I took the precaution of taping up the upright & link with some heat reflective tape to make sure it kept cool. Mabe if the rotten thing weren't so fat we wouldn't have this problem. Ateast the backs don't get anywhere near as hot as the front, but the inside pads wear alot faster than the outers.

same here.....probably 10% faster wear on the inner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...