How to turbo your N/A

[Robocop2310]

Why would you bother. Just enjoy your lag-free NA and when the time comes go buy a turbo Skyline.

[roolis]

why to post if you dont have any advice in this case?

[admS15]

LSA conversion. Its the in thing ATM.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

or Barra 4.0L

keep to the Skyline's 6 cylinder heritage

[Jordy32]

Complete and utter lack of dose pipe has got me worried

[lukeybrah]

In the middle of my upgrade. Just wondering about the boost solenoid. Does the de have the connector provisions there or will I have to wire that in myself?

[jap4lyf]

Don't bother wiring it in, just run a boost tee or an r32 10psi actuator

[lukeybrah]

I'll be able to set 7 psi with that correct? But that will be constant not variable like the solenoid

[jap4lyf]

Yes can choose what pressure by adjusting the boost controller. And yes it will be constant boost not variable.

[lukeybrah]

Where is everyone getting their water return on the na block?

[Dil-Dog]

Hello everyone

HELP

 i am currently converting my r34 GT rb25de NEO to now become turbo charged....now i have a couple of questions for you guys that i hope you can help me with. 

#1 Is it possible to use a complete stock r33 turbo intake? or a fredyy/greddy? ( I HAVE BOTH)

#2 Can it be done using stock NA/DE engine Harness?

Lastly i Have  a Turbo R34 GTT Ecu to run it all.

THANKS! ADVICE IS URGENTLY NEEDED

[Blake niethe]

I have a c34 laurel which is auto would doing the 20et setup as you’ve explained work? With it being a auto and all or would there be no point? 

[Blake niethe]

On 2/2/2004 at 8:38 PM, 666DAN said:

So you want to get more bang for your buck and whack a turbo on your skyline….well the following are things I’ve found out on this ever talked about path.

First thing…get yourself an N/A Skyline, if you’re reading this then you too have made this fatal mistake

The second thing you should do is get yourself some sort of engine management…one that can adjust airflow maps and injection maps…to a lesser extent timing.

I used the GReddy e-manage as my car is auto and I didn’t have a choice in the matter, even if it had been manual I still think I would have got it, due to the ease of installation and programming.

Other options available are getting the factory ECU…but I’m not sure if it would work as it would not have all the signals coming in that the stock turbo engine would put out.

Next step get the essential engine parts…you WILL need the following.

Turbo (of course) preferably with water an oil lines

Exhaust manifold

Dump-pipe & Front pipe

Fuel Pump (GTS-t one or better, plenty of high-flowing cheap ones out there, walbro etc)

Injectors (stock GTS-t ones or better)

Intercooler and piping (stock or custom)

Alloy cross-pipe with BOV (once again custom jobby will suffice)

All of the above can be the factory items or replacement parts for the turbo model, not a bad idea in the case of the intercooler…as with your 10:1 compression keeping things from going boom is a good idea

I used a series 1 R33 turbo, ceramic exhaust wheel jobby…you don’t really need anything more substantial as you can’t go too far past 7psi and the ceramic turbo should last indefinitely at this boost.

Almost all of these items went straight into my R34 with only the exhaust requiring an extra section welded in to make it fit.

The oil & water lines were modified and extended with stainless steel braided hose. The water supply was taken from the heater lines…the oil feed had to be taken from near the filter and the return is via a tap into the block..

Standard, the waste gate on the turbo will open at around 5psi..to get 7psi you’ll require either a bleed valve…or the factory solenoid powered by a constant 12v and put inline with the actuator hose on the turbo.

So now you’ve got everything bolted to your engine you need to get a complete dyno tune, where your ignition will most likely be retarded by about 5 degrees just to keep things safe. Once completed you now got a very different car from when you began…it’s actually got some decent power

Of course none of this would have been possible without Robin at *perFOURmance Motorsports*

The final tune on my car is Thursday, so I’ll have dyno charts and pictures available on Friday.

Anyone wanting specifics PM for more details.

So let’s see who’s next!

Dan

Could you run this setup through an auto easy enough? I have a 20e c34 would that work or would you recommend converting to Manual? 

[roolis]

whats the difference if its auto or manual,you only need Turbo ECU thats ment for auto

[zerepdivad]

Lots of good information in this thread.  Just read through all 43 pages.  Definitely going +T over this coming winter.

[elohim_imanu]

After reading through this entire post, which is great, I am still unclear how lower the compression ratio on a S2 REB25DE (R33). Is it just down to the pistons? If I replace the pistons with DET ones and probably rods as well, do I have the same CR as a standard DET?

I realise that I will not have the oil squirters, but maybe ceramic coating the pistons will help. 

I think I have seen the valve springs might be a bit softer too. 

Please fill in the gaps, if you have first hand experience with these and KNOW the answers. With the prices of RB25DETs in NZ right now I am considering rebuilding my DE, which I know, to DET spec, as close as possible.

[Ben C34]

11 minutes ago, elohim_imanu said:

After reading through this entire post, which is great, I am still unclear how lower the compression ratio on a S2 REB25DE (R33). Is it just down to the pistons? If I replace the pistons with DET ones and probably rods as well, do I have the same CR as a standard DET?

I realise that I will not have the oil squirters, but maybe ceramic coating the pistons will help. 

I think I have seen the valve springs might be a bit softer too. 

Please fill in the gaps, if you have first hand experience with these and KNOW the answers. With the prices of RB25DETs in NZ right now I am considering rebuilding my DE, which I know, to DET spec, as close as possible.

You don't lower the compression is the answer.

but yeah the head cc is the same so comp is down to the piston dome

[roolis]

Rb25de from 25det main difference is CR,if you change pistons,you will have det,except no oil squiters,head is 100%same,rods also the same,did the same for my DE,but i put det pistobs with rb26 rods,cause they are stronger,i am pushing 500hp on my setup,with Tonei cams,N1 oil pump,and be sure to install crank collar if you will dismantle your engine.I pushed 350hp with 1bar boost with stock DE,untill 2nd cylinder ringland failed,so its up to you,if you go over that,you need upgrades

[elohim_imanu]

18 hours ago, roolis said:

Rb25de from 25det main difference is CR,if you change pistons,you will have det,except no oil squiters,head is 100%same,rods also the same,did the same for my DE,but i put det pistobs with rb26 rods,cause they are stronger,i am pushing 500hp on my setup,with Tonei cams,N1 oil pump,and be sure to install crank collar if you will dismantle your engine.I pushed 350hp with 1bar boost with stock DE,untill 2nd cylinder ringland failed,so its up to you,if you go over that,you need upgrades

Very helpful. Thank you Rolandas.

[elohim_imanu]

On 28/07/2020 at 1:38 AM, roolis said:

Rb25de from 25det main difference is CR,if you change pistons,you will have det,except no oil squiters,head is 100%same,rods also the same,did the same for my DE,but i put det pistobs with rb26 rods,cause they are stronger,i am pushing 500hp on my setup,with Tonei cams,N1 oil pump,and be sure to install crank collar if you will dismantle your engine.I pushed 350hp with 1bar boost with stock DE,untill 2nd cylinder ringland failed,so its up to you,if you go over that,you need upgrades

Another question: Are you running without the squirters? You have not installed them yourself as other have? That is pretty impressive numbers.