Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The poor front end really needed a clean-up after years of racing, so I pulled almost basically everything out, my god was it filthy. The only 2 things I had to leave on her were the upper control arms because they were in so tight, I didn’t want to damage the welded-on nut retainers, and you can’t get a rattle gun in there anyway so it would mean that’s one I’ll leave alone. They seem to be the great condition anyway, so I moved on. I tried to work out the best cleaner to remove all the muck, oil, grease and road junk, turns out window cleaner works the best using multiple brushes, including a toothbrush, unfortunately it takes small bits of the engine bay paint off, but I’ll touch that up. The following pics only really show some of what was in the engine bay and skirts after a brush down, there was tons more dirt and shit than in these pics than was actually there. I’ve started putting it all back in, loosely because I have a panel beater coming over to fix her right-hand front after clubbing the wall some years ago at Mount Cotton. I amazed after a month of scrubbing, how clean every comes up, the cross member is gloss black again.

20221102_155335[10377].jpg

20221102_155353[10375].jpg

20221102_155359[10373].jpg

20221102_155505[10371].jpg

20221102_155510[10369].jpg

20221122_150724[10386].jpg

20221205_185549[10419].jpg

20221205_185528[10420].jpg

20221205_185514[10421].jpg

20221205_185505[10422].jpg

20221205_185501[10423].jpg

20221205_185452[10424].jpg

20221122_150754[10417].jpg

20221122_150735[10416].jpg

  • Like 3
11 hours ago, Duncan said:

R series skyline - check

Engine bay cleaned with a toothbrush - check

30 years old - check

 

yep, it's ready to be shipped off to USA for about $800k

So still not enough for a house deposit in Sydney... :(

 

Keep going Neil! Giving me motivation to do the little tidy up jobs that I scrubbed off my build list after getting annoyed with them.

 

while the panel beater is around, have you thought about getting him to smooth over and remove any of the bolt holes and random holes that you don't need any more to tidy the bay up looks wise, and remove areas for dirt and crap to gather?

18 hours ago, Neil said:

Seriously did you actually think Cheryl would never get any love again, she is the only real reason I bought a Hoist, it's Her's.

Might have to drag you 2 up here when both cars are up and running properly.

Zoe is very pissed off with you, she pointed out that you own a dirty filthy Toyota. Zoe's a lovely lady with pure class.

Shhh... He'll criticise you for that Honda you're letting sleep with Zoe and Cheryl next...

18 hours ago, Duncan said:

R series skyline - check

Engine bay cleaned with a toothbrush - check

30 years old - check

 

yep, it's ready to be shipped off to USA for about $800k

No Yank is ever getting my girl. Most of them wouldn't know how to change her spark plugs, they would ask facebook.

6 hours ago, MBS206 said:

So still not enough for a house deposit in Sydney... :(

 

Keep going Neil! Giving me motivation to do the little tidy up jobs that I scrubbed off my build list after getting annoyed with them.

 

while the panel beater is around, have you thought about getting him to smooth over and remove any of the bolt holes and random holes that you don't need any more to tidy the bay up looks wise, and remove areas for dirt and crap to gather?

Sydney, I feel sorry for anybody that still lives there. 

Nah buddy, she's a race car, not a show pony, so Mr panel beater will be just fixing the o/s/f skirt area. I really just want to clean her up, so she looks clean and respectable. Her days of State and National racing are over, Cheryl is now my fun local race girl and a driver trainer.

7 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Shhh... He'll criticise you for that Honda you're letting sleep with Zoe and Cheryl next...

No way tiger, he was the one that introduced me the best mower brand ever, I have her and a Honda whipper snipper, they are both excellent, both start 1st pull, pity his is now a dirty oil leaking, gets bogged Pommy pile of shit tractor, it's that shit he makes Kel drive it.

On 17/12/2022 at 6:32 PM, MBS206 said:

Shhh... He'll criticise you for that Honda you're letting sleep with Zoe and Cheryl next...

It is good to hear that the "Honda" is just a lawn mower.

I was starting to worry that you had gone soft in your old age and purchased a "Try hard Honda" as a daily street car.

36 minutes ago, Victory said:

It is good to hear that the "Honda" is just a lawn mower.

I was starting to worry that you had gone soft in your old age and purchased a "Try hard Honda" as a daily street car.

All good Charles, whilst I do actually like Hondas, there will never be one on our Rego list, not like someone that owns a Leyland and a Toyota, that bloke has issues.

So on re-assembly, (as she needs to get off the hoist and rolling so I can service the wife’s Pulsar) I thought it prudent to replace parts that were either stuffed or needed an upgrade. So 1st off was new upper adjustable outer control arm bushes, new lower ball joints, new sway bar outer links and inner bushes. Everything else feels in great condition.  I can’t believe how good the wheel bearings and swivel bearings are, not touching them. The clutch slave cylinder was showing its age so a new one was purchased from Just Jap.

I have also been playing this crazy game of soaking stuff in vinegar, works a treat, but you can go too far, my god it cleans crap off, but if you leave bolts ect for too long it will take the excellent coating off the factory bolts.

I bought 7 x 2nd hand stainless steel baymarie trays off facebook marketplace up here for 10 bucks each, they make great parts trays and can withstand the vinegar/oils, basically anything. Awesome purchase.

Having the mini lathe has come in so handy, My Cusco bmc stopper has 12mm mounting holes, well 11.6 to be precise but the skirt has 6mm holes, so I made up 2 stepped spacers out of 6061 aluminum to sort that out. So much fun using the lathe.

 

20221220_235220[10466].jpg

20221207_121030[10438].jpg

20221210_155730[10447].jpg

20221210_155757[10446].jpg

20221220_234146[10464].jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

I've spent the last 2 weeks just going through all the parts I have and sorting out what's good, what's spares that I'm going to keep and want's up for sale and what's going back on Cheryl. Thought I would find and clean the turbosmart bov and it was filthy, so I pulled it apart and cleaned it up. 5 stars to them, such a well-made unit, the piston and bore are beautifully made and came up a treat. Unfortunately, the same can't be said for its intercooler pipe, check out the damage I did to it, lucky I have spare. So out with the hole saw and cut the adaptor off, into the lathe and I machined all the welding off, so much fun. This little lathe comes in so handy, I also made an oversize 11mm exhaust manifold stud for my neighbour's rb20 drift car after all his mates said the head would have to come off, even cutting my own thread, now that's a 1st for me. The replacement intercooler pipe is longer and I'm thinking how the hell am I going to run a bead around it after I cut it. Onto to ebay and there's tons of them but 400 buck plus, and that's is not happening, then I find this one for 160 bucks and thought why not try it, they state aluminum pipe 16mm to 102mm at 3mm. I tried it on a 30mm pipe, and it actually works.

Enough for now, enjoy 2023 everybody.

20221226_234754[10473].jpg

20221226_234800[10474].jpg

20221223_175035[10472].jpg

20221226_234835[10475].jpg

s-l1600.jpg

20230103_213328[10477].jpg

  • Like 1
16 hours ago, Duncan said:

Nice, there's never a bad time to buy new tools. Have you got someone local to TIG the BOV back onto the new pipe?

Actually, I do and it's my next door neighbour. He makes roll cages/trailers for his mates and people that he barters with to do stuff he can't. He's an awesome welder, mig, tig, stick and plasma. I often go over to watch and learn, I'll be doing my own soon. My back neighbor restores older cars, has a cool homemade spray booth made out of a big shipping container and Ian 3 doors down can panel beat like a demon, so it's like moving to car building heaven. How the hell did I stumble across these blokes I'll never know. I hold up my end up with technical advice, cool tools, labour and practical solutions. The rb20 drift car would not be running as sweet as it does without me. It's all a win win for all 4 of us. Life is great.

  • Like 3

Hi Neil. I have been a silent reader on SAU for a number of years. My particular interest is Skyline GTST suspension set ups for Track. I have just sent u an email so I can grab some of your insights. I love this thread in regards your work and views.

Thank you Bruce 

On 1/11/2023 at 2:06 PM, McLoft said:

Hi Neil. I have been a silent reader on SAU for a number of years. My particular interest is Skyline GTST suspension set ups for Track. I have just sent u an email so I can grab some of your insights. I love this thread in regards your work and views.

Thank you Bruce 

My Interest is understanding firstly the optimum/ acceptable position of the rear lower control arm. Can it be parallel to the ground to achieve acceptable roll center? Then having established lower control arm position, what would be optimum camber and toe for suspension on a track car. The rear end is not on a skyline so i cant do wheel to arch measurement. Thanks

 

Edited by McLoft
26 minutes ago, McLoft said:

My Interest is understanding firstly the optimum/ acceptable position of the rear lower control arm. Can it be parallel to the ground to achieve acceptable roll center? Then having established lower control arm position, what would be optimum camber and toe for suspension on a track car. The rear end is not on a skyline so i cant do wheel to arch measurement. Thanks

 

This is how my 180sx is. I have also set up nissan IRS in nissan minitruck style builds to have full travel of the suspension with low static heights of around 70-80mm

180sx is 1200kg with driver
255/40/17 semi slick

You want it worst case parallel but I have found it slightly angled down towards outside is better.
I run rear camber 2.3 degrees, Toe in 0.9-1.2mm eash side
Ride height of around 105-112mm.

Apologies for hijacking 
 

Edited by robbo_rb180

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...