Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I personally think that I would prefer an EFR8374 on my car. In saying that you couldn't really ask much more from the PTE 6262, 710rwhp is crazy and response is very good.

The main thing that turned me off the EFR was the physical size and lack of housing options in external gate, in fact if someone can show me one will fit between my strut tower and my motor, plus a T4 divided in a 0.8 rear and I'll give it a go

I have my 8374 fitting between the struts in my R32, and it has the T4 divided .92A/R IWG housing so it's even fussier to fit. Yeah it's tight, but no issues. You wouldn't want anything smaller than the .92a/r on an RB26 or RB30.....it's borderline too small on mine, I could still fit the A/C pump back in if I wanted......but I'm reserving the space for a dry sump pump one day :-) Edited by Sub Boy32

I have my 8374 fitting between the struts in my R32, and it has the T4 divided .92A/R IWG housing so it's even fussier to fit. Yeah it's tight, but no issues. You wouldn't want anything smaller than the .92a/r on an RB26 or RB30.....it's borderline too small on mine, I could still fit the A/C pump back in if I wanted......but I'm reserving the space for a dry sump pump one day :-)

You arent using a full race manifold then I guess? My full race manifold put the turbo quite a fair bit forward

You arent using a full race manifold then I guess? My full race manifold put the turbo quite a fair bit forward

No, I had Sinco Customs make me one, it's similar to their TO4Z manifold, but has been lowered to suit the extra height of the RB30 and the size of the EFR.

TurboFit1.jpg

TurboFit2.jpg

With the EFR7064....in T4 TS 1.05 A/R configuration

Would this be enough for insane response, broad power band and 8000rpm redline on a 2.0L or 2.2L SR20 (with correct cam selection) while pushing over 400rwhp?

My goals are to find a turbo which will support my goals of a very fast street car (in all aspects) which will also be brutal on the circuit...

With the EFR7064....in T4 TS 1.05 A/R configuration

Would this be enough for insane response, broad power band and 8000rpm redline on a 2.0L or 2.2L SR20 (with correct cam selection) while pushing over 400rwhp?

My goals are to find a turbo which will support my goals of a very fast street car (in all aspects) which will also be brutal on the circuit...

The newer 7163 should be superior, both will support more than 400whp on E85.

Want to keep it on 98 octane....

I like the idea of dual external wastegate T4 twin scroll.... which the 7163 doesn't have.

The 7064 seems (t4 ts 1.05/ar ext wastegate) seems as though itll have more top end potential whilst retaining savage response...

With the EFR7064....in T4 TS 1.05 A/R configuration

Would this be enough for insane response, broad power band and 8000rpm redline on a 2.0L or 2.2L SR20 (with correct cam selection) while pushing over 400rwhp?

My goals are to find a turbo which will support my goals of a very fast street car (in all aspects) which will also be brutal on the circuit...

The 1.05 is prob a bit big. The .92 easily,easily will achieve that goal. I have a 2.15L SR20 with a 7064 .92 and Poncams (tiny) and mine made 258rwkw on about 16psi with very,very conservative timing. It goes a lot harder now but haven't dynoed it since. Still can't afford to take it in for another run. With 24-26psi and 260 degree Procams, it'd go off it's head (Prob 350 odd rwkw. My injectors/gearbox/clutch would not support that level of power).

Edited by bradsm87

Awesome to hear Brad....

What RPM are you achieving full boost and what is the transient/throttle response like? Is the acceleration fairly savage as is and what is the car like for spirited driving?

I hear the EFR's well and truly come to life when high boost is pushed into them.

Full boost at 3300 if loaded up in a high gear from low RPM. Transient throttle at anything above 3700 is insanely, insanely quick on to boost. Comes on gradually and very controllable if loading up from low rpm. If u hit the throttle at 4500-ish, u gotta be careful becomes on very fast and hard.

Been wondering if it's physically possible to fit a 7163 onto a RB25 stock manifold.

I make out that a GT3071 is about 150mm from face of flange to furthest point on compressor housing. The 6758 (which I understand is outline identical to 7163) is about 165~170mm in T25 form. Possibly even bigger in TS T4 format. Given you would need a spacer to fit the 7163 (to convert to T3), it's probably 20mm or so closer to shock tower...

Anyone know how much extra room there is in R33 GTST engine bay with GT3071 / GT3076? Would one of these EFR turbos fit?

Pics below of references. I made pretty agricultural measurements assuming the pics are to scale.

post-83859-0-29311700-1387582398_thumb.jpg

post-83859-0-99090700-1387582523_thumb.jpg

Also for s#!ts and giggles, I overlaid GT3071, GT3076 and EFR 7163 compressor maps.

Notes:

Efficiency island:

GT 76%

EFR 74%

Speed lines:

GT 120k

EFR 110k & 130k

The 7163 looks pretty damn impressive. Thoughts on how spool time would be compared with GT3071?

post-83859-0-92399000-1387583072_thumb.png

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...