Jump to content
SAU Community

[Closed] Borg Warner Efr Series Turbos

Lithium

By Lithium,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Lithium
Lithium

Hi all!   I've not really been active on this forum for some time and although I lurk in to read bits and pieces of interest I don't really think of this as a forum I'm part of but I once was and I di

R32 TT
R32 TT

Haha - yeah it could use some more boost Simon..  I'm sorry I've not put up Motec logs in the past for those who've wanted to see. Back at the time I did a bit of comparing because I did more or

Full-Race Geoff
Full-Race Geoff

mr skidz, your posts are coming off as trolling at this point.  do EFR people go into precision threads and talk about how great their mates setup is, but wont give any details??  whilst complaining t

Posted Images

mr skidz Veteran

mr skidz

Posted
Posted

I'm also on the internal map sensor so that's why I don't like to run more than 20 at the moment I don't mind a little 2 pound spike over but I'll only hold it at 20psi at this stage.
every load cell has been tuned except for the impossible areas which never get seen in reality.
but while you have those recorded logs on the haltech it's a good time to go and address those load cells at 1000 RPM and up while you have the logs available I'll ask you are you running closed loop o2 control.?
for myself Im only using it for vacuum areas as soon as mine sees 0 PSI I switch to open loop and run off the map directly.
How you have yours configured makes a big difference on whether you can make those fine adjustments based off logs that's all

[emoji111]




  • Like 1
HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, mr skidz said:

I'm also on the internal map sensor so that's why I don't like to run more than 20 at the moment I don't mind a little to pound spike over but I'll only hold it at 20psi at this stage. I'm at my car pretty anally so every load cell has been hit except for the impossible areas which never get seen in reality but while you have those recorded logs on the hell tech it's a good time to go in a dress those load cells at 1000 RPM while you have the logs available I'll ask you are you running closed loop au to control for myself I'm only using it or vacuum areas and like cruise soon as my a 0 PSI is detected I switch to open loop and run off the map directly.
How are you have yours configured makes a big difference on whether you can make those fine adjustments based off logs that's all

switching sounds like a good idea. I actually had pretty good results from open loop at first, but now I'm running full closed loop. It is a little frustrating in that you can get it perfect for fast shifting then it's weak on the low ramp or vice versa. The alternator voltage seems to have helped my fuel pump keep up with power (an issue I've been having), so I was afraid to try much leaning or boost until I get that sorted.You can see my request and actual outputs in that log (I think I have everything checked).

Keen (as you guys say) to see your results.

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, acsplit said:

Meanwhile I am very happy with my -5 3ltr setup and would not change it.

 

Now I am unsubscribing from this thread because of too many useless posts! :D

It sounds like it would be a great combo. Enjoy it. This thread is far too old and far too diluted to complain about, but I am trying to still provide what data I can to help those make an educated decision.

  • Like 2
acsplit Veteran

acsplit

Posted
Posted
56 minutes ago, mr skidz said:


That would be a torque monster!

Yep it is, pulls stumps good!

Ask Paul or Steve-o and that was before it made 370 rwkw @17psi on 98.

*I have now changed notifications to a weekly digest :) back to the EFR talk.

 

unnamed.jpg

  • Like 3
HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted
Where have people sourced the correct Vband and clamp for the 8374/9180 compressor housings?

 

Treadstoneperformance (TRE) you can weld 3" on the inside of theirs and 3.5" on the outside.

3" assembly:

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=68259&cat_key=613&prodname=Borg+Warner+EFR+Turbine+Housing+V+Band+Clamp

Both 3 and 3.5" flange:

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=2542&prodname=Borg+Warner+EFR+Turbine+Housing+V+Band+Flange+3.5%22+Downpipe

I would not waste my time going 3" again

acsplit Veteran

acsplit

Posted
Posted
Nicks car just in.

-5's 424 rwkw at 24 psi 

8374 1.05 462 awkw at 24 psi.

Same setup, same engine. 3.0, 9.0:1 comp, 260 poncams. No graph yet.


We don't care about peak power, how does it drive?
  • Like 1
VFRegal Contributor

VFRegal

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, acsplit said:

Yeah that is not my RB30.

SR20DET built motor stock head.

EFR 7163. There is a lot of history in this car, I will update more when the owner gives it the nod. Should be tuned next week

Yes please. I have the TS 7163 IWG on SR20. Interested in others results.

Cheers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Did and sync timing with light 
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...