Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Finally found time to get on here. Work has been a bitch lately and just no time for fun stuff like cars and forums.

Car is sitting in the back yard, where it hasn't moved in at least 2 weeks or so. Battery on charge. When it's got power again I'll put it in and try and get it running on F-con. Hate driving it on the stock ECU now, uses 2-3L/100 more fuel and just doesn't feel as strong.

Now that the boost spiking appears to be fixed and I've got the Scotty actuator in, it should be ready for a retune. See if it can do any more on 17PSI, rather than about 188kW @ 7PSI last time :/

If I can't get the throttle fixed soon myself it'll be going back to the tuners for them to fix it - after all, they said they had F-con experience, should be able to get it working. I have some setup info from elsewhere that might help too. It's tuned on AFM and I really think it needs to be on MAP to work properly the way everything is setup and wired.

Anything else exciting going on in here? Alex has a 180, Spoolin's Stag has a new owner (what did he buy?) and Aaron is getting ready to buy a new Stag?

Craig has his car in bits. He has vowed to beat the Mexican 12.9 1/4 time.

Several have blown up AFMs. They are fast becoming the "RB25 coilpacks" of the NM35. Maybe someone should try a 350z unit, and run it up on dyno to see if the scaling is useable?

Spoolin has had a Golf R for a little while now. NFI about Aaron, saw he was selling the Emo today. Probably will buy something with VTEC to be more flatcapper.

350Z has same connector etc? If you get it cheap of Amaya (or whatever it is) almost be worth taking the punt.

Golf R would be fun. Big fan of the Golf.

Aaron will buy another Stagea. Unless the bastard is getting a new A45 AMG.

How's the 180 going? I have seen no updates in too long.

Connector is different, but it would just be a case of figuring out the wiring and chop/connect. Think its the same amount of Pins. I think Craig might have a VQ35de harness with plug hanging around. Take someone with balls to do it! You'd have to run it up, and see if the scaling of the AFM is similar, and the AFRs are safe. NM35s may well have a higher reading AFM from factory, and it will be incompatible. I dunno. Just thinking out loud.

Doing a bit of stuff to the 180...... :)

I'm not sure it's an airflow thing that's killing AFM's; mine pegged it a few weeks ago, and all I did was change lanes and give a little accelerator (barely 40%) and it just rolled to a stop. Mine has never hit airflow cut.

I did get yelled at by a guy in an XF falcon though; so that was fun.

For the $110 delivered that a new one cost, after 120,00km; I think it did ok. The only real issue was having to wait for it to arrive; I should've bought 2 then the next person could've had one sooner.

Several have blown up AFMs. They are fast becoming the "RB25 coilpacks" of the NM35. Maybe someone should try a 350z unit, and run it up on dyno to see if the scaling is useable?

I agree, they seem to max out at around the same power so the sensor may be similar. Even the 35 GTR one may work.

Or you could just piss it off and go MAP sensor... :P

There's a bit of a thread about using the 35 GTR ones in the Forced Induction thread isn't there?

Guys using them on SR's and RB's; although I thought it was less about resolution, and more about availability than anything.

Because of the inability to scale it, it would be a trial and see what works best I think.

You can use anything if you can scale it using tuning software. Unfortunatly, that's not an option for nm35s.

I'm not sure it's an airflow thing that's killing AFM's; mine pegged it a few weeks ago, and all I did was change lanes and give a little accelerator (barely 40%) and it just rolled to a stop.

Mine died starting the car this week. I didnt have the luxury of sitting around waiting to get my car back on the road so I had to pick one up locally. Problem sorted now though... Might go and buy a 2nd one as a stand by at this rate.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...