Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Congratulations to...

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR for its selection as the R32 GTR ADM representative at the GTR FESTIVAL in May.

Thanks Terry,

I'm really looking forward to this event.

Ironically the car hasn't been out since the 25th Anniversary in August 2014!

Fresh petrol won't hurt.

Bob.

That's great information - Thank You. I was a little suspicions as I also identified that the NSW registration history did not match their advertised story of the vehicle history. They may have an explanation for this though. But I am now better informed of the facts.

How did you know the exact month and colour? Is there a VIN code table that has a break down of the VIN layout and relevant codes so that they can be fully interpreted? I have tried to search to find it and haven't had much luck as there are too many references to VIN. :)

Thanks again

You need to find out more about how the car was imported; because nissan Oz was selling GTRs in 91/92 you can't import them yourself. About the only valid way for that car to be registered is if it was a Personal Import. Check the VIN with DOTARS to find out how it was complied.

I imported a 91 but it is only for race/rally use and can't be fully registered

Under the new rules you can't import them, but there are plenty of imports built around that time that are completely legal

link to proof? the rules have always been that low volume import is not possible when the manufacturer imports them. they can only come in:

Full homologation. Only nissan oz ever had this and only for 91/92 models.

1989 rule - was 15 year old until it was changed to stop all the post 1989 jap goodies coming in. Will become a 30 year old rule in 2019.

Personal import - if you can prove you owned it for 2 years (used to be 1) overseas

SEVS/RAWS etc if the manufacturer didn't import it at that time. So 89, 90, 93, 94 models are OK. 4 cars came in before 91 through scuderia veloce, the rest came in post 93.

Race/Rally - can't be registered except restricted/rally rego

Parts - has to be cut in half at a minimum.

Thanks Terry,

I'm really looking forward to this event.

Ironically the car hasn't been out since the 25th Anniversary in August 2014!

Fresh petrol won't hurt.

Bob.

Haha... And I think it'll be good to have "SAU" stickers on don't you (for MotiveDVD)?

link to proof? the rules have always been that low volume import is not possible when the manufacturer imports them. they can only come in:

Full homologation. Only nissan oz ever had this and only for 91/92 models.

1989 rule - was 15 year old until it was changed to stop all the post 1989 jap goodies coming in. Will become a 30 year old rule in 2019.

Personal import - if you can prove you owned it for 2 years (used to be 1) overseas

SEVS/RAWS etc if the manufacturer didn't import it at that time. So 89, 90, 93, 94 models are OK. 4 cars came in before 91 through scuderia veloce, the rest came in post 93.

Race/Rally - can't be registered except restricted/rally rego

Parts - has to be cut in half at a minimum.

we are talking about information that is now over 10 years old, but under the old system (green metal compliance plates) the rule stated the r32 skyline was eligible, which meant all variants and year models were eligible, just like the 300zx all turbo models were eligible

Under the new system that is not the case, you can only bring in year models that Australia did not sell new

Not exactly...........

The restricted R32's are only if manufactured between July 1 1991 and June 30 1992.

Consequently you could/can import them outside of these dates.

Cheers......... Bob.

post-78207-0-53449600-1454840897_thumb.jpg

Not exactly...........

The restricted R32's are only if manufactured between July 1 1991 and June 30 1992.

Consequently you could/can import them outside of these dates.

Cheers......... Bob.

under the new rule that is correct, under the old rule it was open slather
  • 2 weeks later...

I finally found someone willing to lend me an ADM rear number plate infill panel.

Im already looking at getting some reproduced.

Would anyone be interested?

  • Like 2

yuppp

Yes please

As soon as I firm up the prices and arrangements, ill let you guys know what is going on :)

The originals are made out of a thick rubbery kind of material, but the reproductions will be made from fiberglass, however carbon may be an option too.

  • Like 1

I just put up an "EOI" in the group buy section for these number plate panel infill copies:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463043-eoi-adm-r32-gtr-rear-number-plate-infill-panel-copies/

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...