Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

7 Year old M/T's

1530kg car without driver

If memory serves me correct 400-420rwkw in a 1750/1800kg car(inc driver) is ~130mph.

Closer to 400-450rwkw does seem about right :)

Not having a go here either, the MPH is always a good indicator. Video the run at all? :merli:

Never had those ET calcs work that well because they don't take things like diff gearing into account for one (of the many many other factors).

Have a look @ the drag thread and base it of that & the power associated, it's got specific times to Skylines which is far more relevant and suggests the calcs are not as accurate as what people actually go and run.

Take NUTR33 for example:

360rwkw - [email protected]

Far cry from 500rwkw and already into the 130mph mark.

Never had those ET calcs work that well because they don't take things like diff gearing into account for one (of the many many other factors).

Have a look @ the drag thread and base it of that & the power associated, it's got specific times to Skylines which is far more relevant and suggests the calcs are not as accurate as what people actually go and run.

Take NUTR33 for example:

360rwkw - [email protected]

Far cry from 500rwkw and already into the 130mph mark.

i got 2 runs in & my first time at WSID.

i short shifted into 2nd & 3rd on the 10.8 pass.

so the mph will rise if we hold out gears longer but traction was an issue...

Edited by BMYHOE

Traction doesn't tend to have a big effect on trap speeds until it is actually an extended smokey skid

Very true. At the motive DVD thingo last year I did a few runs with the start like I was taking off from a set of lights. Later in it was 8000 rpm launches. The difference? 2 MPH.

i agreed. it spun 1st gear.. 1.89 60ft aiming for a 1.5 60ft with new m/t's

if we can strip close to 130kg's?

MPH has to rise.

MPH will rise, and also fall :)

A better 60ft (.4 drop you are aiming for) generally will mean a lower MPH by 2-3MPH on average is what I found when racing regularly. Stripping KG will increase - so overall you should be in front though it might not be as much as you are expecting if it hooks up nicely

  • 3 weeks later...

This is on an SR20VE perhaps, but still - I am officially quite impressed with the GTX3076R now....

477kw on 30psi running E85:

622274_413213968746634_1172936981_o-1024x819.jpg

http://www.shredmotorsport.co.nz/2012/sr20vet-results-and-the-truth-about-dyno-corrections/

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...