Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you sure it's not the reg mate?

maybe...do they tic too?...sounds seems to travel up and down the rail..

or did you mean the hunting?

I've done about all I know how to do now..time for some professional assistance I think

I have been recommended a TD06H-25G with a 12CM housing

There seems to be 2x types of rear wheels on TD06H eg: 11 blade and 12 blade???

Also like the GT35R/TD06H hybrids.

Edited by 32TAXI

Found this...

GT35R/T04R

Would have change manifold flange to T4

or....

GT35R/TD06H

Then upgrade to bigger housings later like this if needed...

TD06H 12cm

Edited by 32TAXI

So... some pics of the 25G vs 73HTA compressors and TD06SH vs TD06L2 turbines

Greddy TD06H-25G

med_gallery_462_50_163304.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_131724.jpg

25G Compressor

med_gallery_462_50_116850.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_76394.jpg

TD06-73HTA

L2 Turbine

med_gallery_462_50_127727.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_218678.jpg

73HTA Billet Compressor by Forced Performance

med_gallery_462_50_36538.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_177446.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_151826.jpg

Side by Side

med_gallery_462_50_113969.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_7215.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_180417.jpg

And this is what happens when you try to run an SH housing on an L2 turbine

med_gallery_462_50_47822.jpg

The CHRA was made up with the L2 turbine and 73HTA compressor by a turbo shop, so its all balanced and just needs lines connected and bolted up. Well at least thats the plan.

When I have got my current TD06-20G off I will line up all 5 turbos and take good side by side pics and break out the verniers for more accurate measurements.

I have been reading some of my old uni pump design texts and trying to get an understanding of the impact surface finish has on compressor performance. Its interesting that there are documented negatives when deailing with fluids, but harder to quantify for ideal gases. The surface finish of the billet wheel is pretty good, but looking at an EFR 7670 today the EFR turbos have a much higher surface finish. Its probably in the area of around 0.4um going by the materials we use in pharma. So may send the TD05H-18G off for some extrude honing of the compressor wheel to polish it up and see if it makes any difference in performance. Think I found a place in the US that makes billet little nuts for the compressor too so for wank will throw that on after the honing of the compressor wheel. All helps, I want to see if the little 18G can make 260rwks on E85

But my car doesnt run on Trents dyno does it :) Would be interesting to see what my car made on his...higher or lower...but going on the dyno that my car runs on if I make 260 out of a 18G with an 8cm housing then I am doing well,

Interested to see the cars making an easy 260rwkws on 98. Looking at SR20s running T518Zs there arent too many making 260rwkws on pump?!?! 240-250 seems more the norm.

But my car doesnt run on Trents dyno does it :) Would be interesting to see what my car made on his...higher or lower...but going on the dyno that my car runs on if I make 260 out of a 18G with an 8cm housing then I am doing well,

Interested to see the cars making an easy 260rwkws on 98. Looking at SR20s running T518Zs there arent too many making 260rwkws on pump?!?! 240-250 seems more the norm.

i just had issacs S15 come from racepace where it made 250, it made 239 on mine.. pretty direct comparo i reckon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...