Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

simon the top half was removed when i drilled it pinch.gif. had the manifold welded before you post regarding the splitter and how it would completely disrupt the flow and end up being worse of. the damage was done so i thought id throw it on any way. on the standard turbo it was fine, but not too sure how it would be pushing 20psi. It will probably crack any way as the boys were saying, ill just get the gate welded to rear housing worse comes to worst

Or weld to the turbine housing, much easier and cheaper to fix if something fails. :thumbsup:

Its a pity the new ebay stainless T3 GT30 rears dont bolt up to the Kando's, that way the bend and flange are all similar metals to the housing. Perhaps its worth machining one out a few mm?

im keen on finding out about a t67 on rb25det with 98 pump fuel as here in wait awhile we dont have e85 yet. and i really cannot be bothered ordering and running the risk of running out of fuel somewhere unless simon has a better idea on how to get around this little problem haha

Mate STATUS has posted a few results of people running the T67 on 98...

There was even a guy who posted his results through an auto and low boost, it still make like 270kw....

STATUS has posted results of people on 98 doing about 330kw, should be good for the same on others Id say.

Mate STATUS has posted a few results of people running the T67 on 98...

There was even a guy who posted his results through an auto and low boost, it still make like 270kw....

STATUS has posted results of people on 98 doing about 330kw, should be good for the same on others Id say.

Thanks Scott, clearly i've missed those in my reading. I'll re-attack the posts. :thumbsup:

Just a quick question, ive got my bday coming up soon and my bro' s and sisters asked me what i wanted. I said a turbo lol. There willing to all chuck in some money towards a kando TD06H - 18G internal gate with a 0.5 bar actuator. So do u think this turbo would suit a 4cyl 1.8L engine ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Cover-T3-8cm-V-Band-Housing-TD06H-20G-/290664105318?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43acee4566#ht_2744wt_1396

This one states a 20G wheel but they should be able to change it for an 18G for the same price. What do yous think ?

Are you taking the piss or being serious? :thumbsup: I dont care but you could be right. Perhaps the smaller exhaust pulses of the pissy little 2L six means things are a little more sensitive to exhaust flow and back pressure

I was joking lol

Mate STATUS has posted a few results of people running the T67 on 98...

There was even a guy who posted his results through an auto and low boost, it still make like 270kw....

STATUS has posted results of people on 98 doing about 330kw, should be good for the same on others Id say.

cheers gtscott i missed it also ill have to wait for e85 over here in wait awhile (wa)

Just a quick question, ive got my bday coming up soon and my bro' s and sisters asked me what i wanted. I said a turbo lol. There willing to all chuck in some money towards a kando TD06H - 18G internal gate with a 0.5 bar actuator. So do u think this turbo would suit a 4cyl 1.8L engine ?

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2744wt_1396

This one states a 20G wheel but they should be able to change it for an 18G for the same price. What do yous think ?

Was that a typo mate? TD06H-18g is overkill.

Had you meant TD05H-18g in an internal gate form with T25 SR20 style housing, then go for it :thumbsup: ive done one of those myself and it was a really nice turbo.

And to the others, no worries. I more or less check this thread daily so I have a fairly good recollection of what weve discussed or what has come up over the time. Its just about my favourite thread lol.

Was that a typo mate? TD06H-18g is overkill.

Had you meant TD05H-18g in an internal gate form with T25 SR20 style housing, then go for it :thumbsup: ive done one of those myself and it was a really nice turbo.

I had my doubts that a TD06 would have been a lil big. Thats why i wanted a 2nd opinion, so u think the below option would be better. It will be on a T3 flange manifold not a T25

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-Internal-Gated-Housing-/270918417854?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6453559929143493497#ht_2730wt_1396

I dont have ebay access at work so Ill need to update this from home.

What motor is it? Is there a reason you are limited to a T3 flange? The T3 IWG housings are highly undesirable.

Whilst the gate looks great mounted there im worried it will crack eventually. Isnt that the weak point where the manifolds crack without cutting a 2 inch hole?

I think you are well on your way to the 300 club. :thumbsup:

maybe even mid 300's now its on wild the sphincter of the universe

lol

i wrote wild t u r k ey and i get sphincter of the universe wtf?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's sodium citrate, I misspoke earlier. It's a citrate buffer solution. And yes, depending on how thin the metal in the tank is this may or may not be a wise decision but if it's just mild rust it should clean off and it should be fine. 
    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
×
×
  • Create New...