Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

E-flex = flex fuel = varying content...

Not only is it hard to come by, but you may tune your car to E80, then fill up next week with E70.. And if you dont have a content sensor hooked up and calibrated you are risking total melt down.

Not only this, but the ethanol is an awesome agent to break down oil. Meaning faster service intervals and potential increased wear on the motor.

I'm just not sold at this stage and aren't recommending E-flex on any level anymore. You can however join our WMI thread and have a squeaky steam cleaned engine that you can fill up anywhere, run no risk of melt down with a simple $500 kit ($30 buys a low level light, then switch to low boost) and literally increase the longevity/healthy/safety of your motor while pushing further towards the power threshold of your setup.

WIN.

Yeah, i was watching Louis Theraux do a show on meth addicts the other night..it wasnt pretty think i will sit that one out, but you Boys have fun ok..

so many e warriors in here.. such fail.

rookie e warriors always say that :P

E-flex = flex fuel = varying content...

Not only is it hard to come by, but you may tune your car to E80, then fill up next week with E70.. And if you dont have a content sensor hooked up and calibrated you are risking total melt down.

Not only this, but the ethanol is an awesome agent to break down oil. Meaning faster service intervals and potential increased wear on the motor.

I'm just not sold at this stage and aren't recommending E-flex on any level anymore. You can however join our WMI thread and have a squeaky steam cleaned engine that you can fill up anywhere, run no risk of melt down with a simple $500 kit ($30 buys a low level light, then switch to low boost) and literally increase the longevity/healthy/safety of your motor while pushing further towards the power threshold of your setup.

WIN.

I call your varying ethanol content and raise you an empty water bottle. I know which one will kill the engine quicker tuned to the edge... :P

Either way I would get a manifold mounted exhaust temp sensor with warning.

Just have to fit all the parts and the profec to it. Its been a donor car for all the other skyline parts that dont survive on dyno. Mainly coilpacks and boost T

haha thank god for that car!

fingers crossed u can get it tuned this w/e :D

Gtscott your kidding right, what difference is a slight variation in ethanol content to a variation in pulp..as long as you are tuned safely with some room for variance you should have no problems and still have extra kws..

Well we have to do something to catch up to the HG thread its like 70 pages ahead of us..

Haha I'm all good man, no more e wars for me anymore, guess I will just retire to the grandstands with a glass of beer and spectate from now....:yucky:

I call your varying ethanol content and raise you an empty water bottle. I know which one will kill the engine quicker tuned to the edge... :P

Either way I would get a manifold mounted exhaust temp sensor with warning.

Lol yeah your perfectly correct, yet what I neglected to adequately mention was that you can easily put measures in place.

In my case I am going to have a low level warning and have my car tuned to low boost without WI and high boost with WI. I am actually going to look for an EBC with a remote switch too, so I can wire it up to switch to low boost on its own.

But short of a content sensor equipped ECU, there is no telling if Caltex have dicked you till you lean out and melt something :thumbsup:

And while you might say that is the same thing as 'putting measures in place'... Its a lot cheaper to buy $500 worth of WMI parts and refill distilled water than it is to buy a full ecu and have someone tune it properly for varying content. I priced the exercise up for myself, it was in the vicinity of $4000 for a basic (effective) flex fuel setup and tune. It went up close to another $1000 once I asked the tuner to have the car able to go right back to straight 98.

But he was happy to tune it to straight e-flex for a reasonable price if I wanted, and it 'should' be fairly consistent around the E70 mark :rolleyes:

Gtscott your kidding right, what difference is a slight variation in ethanol content to a variation in pulp..as long as you are tuned safely with some room for variance you should have no problems and still have extra kws..

Wrong. Ethanol burns completely differently to petrol, 10% variance in content could have a major effect in terms of 'rich or lean'.

Just because you don't tune it to the ragged edge doesn't mean it wont lean out.

Wrong. Ethanol burns completely differently to petrol, 10% variance in content could have a major effect in terms of 'rich or lean'.

Just because you don't tune it to the ragged edge doesn't mean it wont lean out.

I don't know any tuners that wouldn't tune e85 on the slightly rich side to compensate. What you may not realise is its the other way around, the varying e85 mixture make sweet FA difference to the AFR's and the car is still 100% safer than your normal 98 tune. I would still recommend a wideband to potential ethanol users but I would make the same recommendation to people pushing 98's boundarys.

You do know 98 varies with the seasons too right?

gauge this gauge that. fkn put the handle into the tank fill it up and hold it flat.

decent tuner = will last regardless forged this forged that.

listen to that typical eflex hater.

ive had bp98 tuned in my STOCK rb25 for 3yrs at 400rwhp and last 12months 470rwhp..

now eflex and 450hp as i run lower boost by choice and i prefer not to pay $1.70/ltr for shit 98.

maybe spend more time actually doin something on ur car instead of ur 300 paragraph replys on here lol.

Edited by methz

I don't know any tuners that wouldn't tune e85 on the slightly rich side to compensate. What you may not realise is its the other way around, the varying e85 mixture make sweet FA difference to the AFR's and the car is still 100% safer than your normal 98 tune. I would still recommend a wideband to potential ethanol users but I would make the same recommendation to people pushing 98's boundarys.

You do know 98 varies with the seasons too right?

To be more accurate, different suppliers have different methods of mixing their fuels. One of the main reasons BP98 got the wrap it did years back is because BP guarantee their blend to be the same all year round. However, you are correct and both Caltex and Shell 98 blends are 'seasonal'. They still are a 98ron fuel however the additives used to reach that target change with the seasons and availability of materials. This was a major reason why BP won the sponsorship rights to the V8s.

Without being argumentative, I am of the strong opinion an 'untuned' variation in ethanol content can and will have a devastating effect on the motor. Remember that there are 2 separate components to the fuel, and you are also varying gasoline content too.

gauge this gauge that. fkn put the handle into the tank fill it up and hold it flat.

decent tuner = will last regardless forged this forged that.

listen to that typical eflex hater.

ive had bp98 tuned in my STOCK rb25 for 3yrs at 400rwhp and last 12months 470rwhp..

now eflex and 450hp as i run lower boost by choice and i prefer not to pay $1.70/ltr for shit 98.

maybe spend more time actually doin something on ur car instead of ur 300 paragraph replys on here lol.

Aww Diddums, did my mean comments upset you?

Don't worry, I'm sure your 20hp will come back. There there, I wrote you an essay and made it all better now. :yes:

I am of the strong opinion an 'untuned' variation in ethanol content can and will have a devastating effect on the motor. Remember that there are 2 separate components to the fuel, and you are also varying gasoline content too.

I use United e85 sometimes and just add a few litres of 98 in the mix. It doesn't make any difference to my wideband readout if i'm a litre or two out either way. The old tune ran 18:1 on cruise perfectly well so i'm sure the 16:1 I run now will be quite safe. Try that with petrol...

At maximum load there is that much more fuel volume pumping in the cylinder, so the pistons are cooled considerably more than with 98, allowing even more safety margin.

E-flex = flex fuel = varying content...

Not only is it hard to come by, but you may tune your car to E80, then fill up next week with E70.. And if you dont have a content sensor hooked up and calibrated you are risking total melt down.

Not only this, but the ethanol is an awesome agent to break down oil. Meaning faster service intervals and potential increased wear on the motor.

I'm just not sold at this stage and aren't recommending E-flex on any level anymore. You can however join our WMI thread and have a squeaky steam cleaned engine that you can fill up anywhere, run no risk of melt down with a simple $500 kit ($30 buys a low level light, then switch to low boost) and literally increase the longevity/healthy/safety of your motor while pushing further towards the power threshold of your setup.

WIN.

Well I didn't want to get into a discussion about E-flex lol, it was more a play on words...you know...E-warrior/E-flex...

But while we're here, I have to say, I am 100% with Scotty (fabricating Scotty, lol) on this one. I have too many friends running ethanol with no ill-effects to ignore the benefits of an ethanol setup and be scared by the myths. There are plenty of safety measures you can put in place if you are concerned (wideband or E-sensor), and from what I've heard, the variation in blends makes SFA difference to your engine. It may run with less power (still more than on 98) depending on ethanol content, but the science and good tuning is there for it to be nowhere near dangerous. It's been discussed very in-depth in other threads. You should do a search on SAU and have a read of them, it's fascinating the amount of research and tuning time people have put into it. Race Pace even wanted to hook me up with a tune that would allow me to run E-flex full time and putt around off boost on 98 in a fuel deprived emergency :)

But then, we live in Victoria, the ethanol state. So it's much more convincing to have servos popping up left right and centre with the stuff...

Well I didn't want to get into a discussion about E-flex lol, it was more a play on words...you know...E-warrior/E-flex...

But while we're here, I have to say, I am 100% with Scotty (fabricating Scotty, lol) on this one. I have too many friends running ethanol with no ill-effects to ignore the benefits of an ethanol setup and be scared by the myths.

LOL All good guys, I'm happy to hear different opinions and/or be told I'm wrong. At the end of the day I'm only voicing an opinion myself.

No discredit to Ethanol based fuels at all from me, but I would only go there 1) when its fully rolled out and available in my state, and 2) if and when I run a content sensor.

I get my content woes/information down a short grape vine from the very top of CAMS hierarchy. Not that it changes anything, but like I've said before we all form our opinions somehow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...