Kando Dynamics Turbo

[Missileman]

isn't the comp housing too close to the ex-manifold?

[1400r]

to close = touching?

its not touching 2-3mm room there

if I rotate the comp so the cooler piping follows the rail there's yeap's of room

the outlet is the widest part of the comp so it gives the least amount of clearance in its current orientation

[Missileman]

Oh ok, I thought you needed to have some sort of heat shield to try and reduce the heating of the compressor housing, and thus reduce the temperature of the intake charge.

[scotty nm35]

The air is going through there so fast there will be little difference to the intake charge, but the silicone joiner may not like it if it's too close without the stock heatshield...

[1400r]

trust elbow ready to be welded on just waiting to see what the fab guy wants to do

as along the rail may make the intake pipe fab easier

[m.s.t.]

Hello guys,

first of all i ask you nicely not to shoot me as i know what most of the answers to my post will be "use search'

Because this topic is 290 pages long with a lot of usefull information and also a lot of bullshit i'm going to ask a few question, because after reading about 40 random pages i don't have found the aswers yet.

To the point:

I'm currently building an rb20det for my r32, i'm looking for a nice budget turbo for ages! Everytime i come across this kinugawa turbo.

But i don't seem to find out wich i have to chose!

I'm looking for around 400HP (crank) and yes i've got all the supporting mods.

The key thing is i don't want to go cheap topmount or tubular manifold, so i'm stuck with the stock manifold (no discussion about this please!)

The downside of the stock manifold is restricting size of the turbo and INTERNAL WASTEGATE, wich seems to be crap on the kinugawa turbo's.

So finaly my question:

Wich turbo will FIT lowmount stock manifold? (fitting spacer isn't a prob)

Are the internal wastegate's really that bad????

Wicht turbo will give me enough power?

I really hope to get FINALLY the answers i need because i'm building this shit for 2.5 years now and deff need a turbo and get the car back on the road.

quick speclist:

Rb20det

Stock pistons and rods (used)

New oem piston rings

ACL main and con bearings

ARP headstuds

1.3mm cometic steel headgasket

ARP rod bolts

extended oildrive collar

ported head

rb26 oilpump with reimax internals

600cc injectors

r32gtr fuel pump

sard FPR

Greddy e-mange ultimate

z32maf

upgraded cooling etc.

stock manifolds

stock valve train setup

stock cams

[zebra]

Hypergear

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Hypergear

And use the stock head gasket, that 1.3mm gasket has effectively dropped your compression ratio.

[m.s.t.]

And use the stock head gasket, that 1.3mm gasket has effectively dropped your compression ratio.

dont worry head and block are skimmed.

stock is to weak for the boost im looking for.

[zebra]

No it isn't

[m.s.t.]

Ok...

just some info about the turbo's would be helpfull

[Dale FZ1]

Contact hardsteppa - he has a TDO5-18G internal gated. Might give a useful indicator

[Lithium]

Are you more interested in making the full power, or as much response as possible?

I personally am a huge fan of 16G6s on a stock RB20, at least if you are after a good usable power delivery - but the ones with the TD06 compressor cover, not the "bolt on" housing option. If I were doing a stock RB20DET on stock manifolds, this is personally what I'd go for: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Billet-Turbocharger-Bolt-On-3-Anti-Surge-RB20DET-RB25DET-TD05H-16G-8cm-/271457770181?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3424dac5. There is some debate on their flow, but I view them as an honest ~40lb/min compressor which should get you an honest "400hp @ crank" on a setup which is working well.

It'd probably be worth giving the wastegate port a little bit of opening up to avoid creep as they can do it, and it's not hard to take a bit of meat out of it - the flapper is big enough so cover a bit of opening up. I don't rate 18Gs from what I've seen of them, they don't seem to offer a worthwhile amount more flow than the 16G but lag increases enough that you'd hope for a worthwhile increase. Haven't seen any results of the billet wheel, but logic would have it that its going to be at least as good as the cast wheel given it's the same design with a little bit less hub area (ie, a bit less inertia, a bit more usable volume for pumping air).

[iruvyouskyrine]

And use the stock head gasket, that 1.3mm gasket has effectively dropped your compression ratio.

Standard headgasket size is 1.3mm (51thou)?

[methz]

stock gasket here with arp studs and close enough to 500atw. im sure stock will be just fine

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

stock gasket here with arp studs and close enough to 500atw. im sure stock will be just fine

that's the spirit - no point changing something that works well from factory..

if only our R32/33/34 all had yamaha motors.. 2JZ will happily make over 400kW unopened, stock cams, stock gears, stock everything really

[zebra]

that's the spirit - no point changing something that works well from factory..

if only our R32/33/34 all had yamaha motors.. 2JZ will happily make over 900kW unopened, stock cams, stock gears, stock everything really

Fyp.

Oh and yamaha only did the head

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Fyp.

Oh and yamaha only did the head

and who doesn't like head?

It proves they did it right, stock cams/valves and it's capable of 400kW+ (900kW according to zebrah) without any valve float business to worry about. If only Supras were more affordable I would be in one.. but sad reality is, they're not affordable.. at that price point I rather a GT-R because more tits

[m.s.t.]

What is this hahaha?

i asked for some turbo info and all people do is complain that im upgrading my headgasket!

[Ben C34]

That's cos we are super helpful!