Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

forgot to mention......bleed the attessa yesterday......much better.....drive vibration is still there though :( .....I think it's time to go 2WD and see what happens.

Hi guys

Picked my 99 RS4S up a couple of weeks ago and put it in to GT Garage in Hobart Thursdy to get some mods done. NGK .8 spark plugs, new oil filter and Motul turbolight oil were already freshly in, and the car came with a HKS pod filter. The mods I got were a full turbo back exhaust, with a HKS Hi-Power cat back, a Walbro fuel pump, Turbotech boost controller and a Nistune. When they put it on the dyno it put out 200kw. Stoked! Dyno sheet below.

Tim

post-76194-0-16470400-1298708130_thumb.jpg

picked up some new NGK iridium LFR7AIX spark plugs, i had bought 6's instead of 7's and they were limiting my power :( all 6 = $82

Just getting back to this; based on some searches I believe most are running LFR6AIX-11 plugs? Why did going to the 7 change that, isnt it colder?

My self education process involving Wikipedia suggests that the temperature of a spark plug seems to come in to play at peak torque, so would it more so be a hindrance in chasing numbers rather than having 'real world impact'?

Hi guys

Picked my 99 RS4S up a couple of weeks ago and put it in to GT Garage in Hobart Thursdy to get some mods done. NGK .8 spark plugs, new oil filter and Motul turbolight oil were already freshly in, and the car came with a HKS pod filter. The mods I got were a full turbo back exhaust, with a HKS Hi-Power cat back, a Walbro fuel pump, Turbotech boost controller and a Nistune. When they put it on the dyno it put out 200kw. Stoked! Dyno sheet below.

Tim

post-76194-0-16470400-1298708130_thumb.jpg

really good figures tim. i compared to my graph, S2 RS4S basically the same mods but i have emanage, and no pump, but an EBC - and yours hits harder earlier, making 10kw more at 2000rpm - and where mine noses over at about 6000rpm, yours seems to pull strongly to redline.

they ran it in 2wd righT :pirate:

Just getting back to this; based on some searches I believe most are running LFR6AIX-11 plugs? Why did going to the 7 change that, isnt it colder?

My self education process involving Wikipedia suggests that the temperature of a spark plug seems to come in to play at peak torque, so would it more so be a hindrance in chasing numbers rather than having 'real world impact'?

i have LFR6's and they seemed to restrict me at 230awkw. the spark was too hot and causing to detonate on the dyno.

and because the gap is so large at the moment they dont last so long - i found at this power not even lasting long at all, they're already fouled and missing between gears, and changes between gears.

but if your keeping the car at stock levels 6's or even 5's will be fine. i had 5's in there from compliance and they worked alright.

really good figures tim. i compared to my graph, S2 RS4S basically the same mods but i have emanage, and no pump, but an EBC - and yours hits harder earlier, making 10kw more at 2000rpm - and where mine noses over at about 6000rpm, yours seems to pull strongly to redline.

they ran it in 2wd righT :pirate:

I was pretty happy (and more than a bit surprised) when they told me and then when I saw the graph. I was hoping for about 180awkw, so to get 200 was awesome.

I'm assuming they ran it in 2wd, to be honest I forgot to ask

really good figures tim. i compared to my graph, S2 RS4S basically the same mods but i have emanage, and no pump, but an EBC - and yours hits harder earlier, making 10kw more at 2000rpm - and where mine noses over at about 6000rpm, yours seems to pull strongly to redline.

they ran it in 2wd righT :pirate:

Put a decent fuel pump in and then talk to your tuner to see why it is nosing over at 6000rpm.

forgot to mention......bleed the attessa yesterday......much better.....drive vibration is still there though :( .....I think it's time to go 2WD and see what happens.

Could just be the Nankangs?

i have LFR6's and they seemed to restrict me at 230awkw. the spark was too hot and causing to detonate on the dyno.

and because the gap is so large at the moment they dont last so long - i found at this power not even lasting long at all, they're already fouled and missing between gears, and changes between gears.

but if your keeping the car at stock levels 6's or even 5's will be fine. i had 5's in there from compliance and they worked alright.

Wouldn't have had that issue with the Denso plugs :nyaanyaa:

Wouldn't have had that issue with the Denso plugs :nyaanyaa:

care to elaborate?

i think the plugs were fouled from the word go.. plus a 1.1 mm gap..

if these screw up again i think im gonna get you to organise me some denso's

i have some LFR7AIX at a .8 mm going in soon.

care to elaborate?

i think the plugs were fouled from the word go.. plus a 1.1 mm gap..

if these screw up again i think im gonna get you to organise me some denso's

i have some LFR7AIX at a .8 mm going in soon.

Elaborate on what, bud?

Denso IKH22 plugs work perfectly, in all conditions and at all power levels.

0.8mm gap as required, 0.4mm electrode and V grooved tip provide a superior spark to the NGK plugs.

But you already knew this.

You can find the IKH22's on eBay Motors and get them sent over for less than I can get them through Denso in Croydon.

Elaborate on what, bud?

Denso IKH22 plugs work perfectly, in all conditions and at all power levels.

0.8mm gap as required, 0.4mm electrode and V grooved tip provide a superior spark to the NGK plugs.

But you already knew this.

You can find the IKH22's on eBay Motors and get them sent over for less than I can get them through Denso in Croydon.

so your guess is before i change the old NGK's to the new.. to scrap the whole idea and put in IKH22's?

what heat range are they?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...