Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nothing earth shattering unfortunately;

Back to full soft on the BC BR front dampers after stepping up to the stiffest setting on the front sway bar. Got rid of the slightly darty response on some uneven surfaces. No real loss of turn in response, but much less "busy" on rough stuff, and I can always stiffen it up in seconds anyway.

Replaced the two bumper rubbers on my fuel filler flap P/N; 78837-AG000. The original ones were flat as a tack, and as a result the fuel flap never sat flush with the rear quarter; always a bit sunken.:down: Just a small detail, but it's been shitting me for ages.

Dropped a couple of Nutserts into the front bumper support to replace the holes I tapped to fit the mount for my trans cooler. Nothing wrong with them, but the Nutsert will be much more resistant to stripping out due to vibration than the holes into the soft alloy. Another thing that's been bugging me for a while.

Other than that; I also picked a length of 50x50x5mm 316 stainless angle to start manufacturing Heavy Duty rear sway bar upper mounts!:banana: More on that soon.

Edited by Daleo

Im interested to see pics of the HKS 350z turbo setup, most of the intercooler and piping wont fit by the looks of it but it comes with a fair bit of gear. At least you will have known results and great quality, the 3037 is a perfect size imo. What are your plans for the gearbox?

Engine out job for sure to fit the manifolds. Hopefully you can confirm they are stock VQ25det items.

I have taken inspiration from this kit for my adapter to fit the GTX3071 and external gate, hopefully I can jig it up and sell for anyone else wanting to upgrade to a Garrett as HKS aren't making any more kits and parts aren't available anymore. For mine you would just need the Tial housing (as it will make it much easier to fit and have better wastegate flow.)

Yeah, the piping might be a headache. It has been made to work on a V35 auto, so I'm not trail blazing. Basically 3 areas of concern (for me)- the outlet from the turbo fouling the LHS Driveshaft, piping to and from the cooler, and I think the Exhaust comes in on the same diagonal as a Z33, which means I might have to add a little/take a little to make it sit right.

I'll get some photos of the relevant spots for you Scotty asap. Don't expect the kit to be fitted overnight... I pretty much bought it because it was being discontinued and I couldn't not buy it at that price :whistling:

Gearbox will get a service/flush, and a cooler. We'll see how that holds up, It will be running really minimal boost, as per HKS recommendations, cause I don't want a rod out the block... As for building it up, well, i'll let the wallet recover first!

But If anyone finds one of those 4.2 stroker GTM motorsport FI sets that they want to give me...:ninja:

i also need to do this so interested in the part number.

my Air con stinks and I have a feeling this may be apart of the reason lol

Get the one carbon one that filters out ozone. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/129786-air-con-filter/page__pid__5429174__st__60#entry5429174

I thought the great big hole in the sky was letting all the ozone out, but apparently there's still some down here & it's not good to breathe :unsure:

  • Like 1

Get the one carbon one that filters out ozone. http://www.skylinesa...60#entry5429174

I thought the great big hole in the sky was letting all the ozone out, but apparently there's still some down here & it's not good to breathe :unsure:

Thanks mate appreciate it!!

Easy job replacing the cabin filter? Did you buy a cabin filter from Ebay?

Yeah the Cabin filter i got was one of the ebay ones, Charcoal Carbon Filters US$24.83 shipped to OZ

http://cgi.ebay.com/...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Where's the Second fuse box????? I know of the one behind the battery, I know of the one down near the accelerator pedal. Where's the other?

In my head the Fuse boxes are"

1, Driver Footwell Kick Panel

2. The Rectangle Box in front off the battery (Maybe more of a Relay box but theres fuses in there)

3. The box behind the battery on the firewall under the wiper trim, this is the one i didn't reliaze was there (which is probaly considered the main one)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...