Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My missus didn't know what to say when I told her; sent me a message when she got to work, telling me to do whatever I need to make it right. She's cool like that, no "It's just a car" from her.

Aaaahh, so you have an good/understanding one as well thumbsup.gif

Edited by iamhe77

Mate that straight up sucks. Anything else wrong with the body at all? Worth scratching it some more and making an insurance claim?

Lol, no; the rest of the car is basically flawless. That's why I'm so cranky. A couple of the Sydney guys can probably vouch for the paint.whistling.gif

What is this issue you're referring to Dale?

The clear coat on all of the V35/M35's is very soft. It's very easy to mar the paint; and it shows up worst on dark blue, and particularly black. It also doesn't appear very UV resistant.

There is actually a factory option; "Clear Hardcoat" (I think that's what it's called) which is a kind of paint protection that most owners optioned on darker colours, but it is sacrificial, and eventually wears off.

It's a bit of a double edged sword though, being soft; it can take a knock and not crack, and it doesn't take a huge amount of muscle to do Paint Correction.

My painter offered to rub back the clear and spray a House of Kolor clear and then wet sand, another coat, wet sand and correct.

The HOK clear is a very high quality UV stable clear and it is much much harder than the factory clear. He called it a "Diamond Hard" clear. It would resist scratching much more and would be basically a show car quality finish.

Whilst being very tempting; I tend to think this may make it even more of a target than it already is, and the finish would require the at least the same level of care as it does now; very likely more.

I'm not sure I could deal with slowly covering it in stonechips though.

I think there's probably a happy medium somewhere in between, I'll have to sit down & have a chat with him. The advantage is; he absolutely loves the car, and knows I'm bordering on obsessive about it too.

Edited by Daleo

Aaaahh, so you have an good/understanding one as well thumbsup.gif

Lol Cam, I think I've worn her down with it over time. yes.gif

She rolls her eyes and occasionally cracks it, but she rather likes driving around in a spotless, well maintained car while some of her friends drive unreliable, dirty shitboxes.whistling.gif

I think my front radar grill would look funny with no badge at all, the infiniti badge still makes people say wtf is that

Yes- done that to my ARX not long ago - looks like DOREIMON lol then I put it back

The clear coat on all of the V35/M35's is very soft. It's very easy to mar the paint; and it shows up worst on dark blue, and particularly black. It also doesn't appear very UV resistant.

Very interesting! I know All Type had trouble really getting a good shine out of my paintjob. Said it took them three times longer than usual. S'pose that had something to do with it.

Very interesting! I know All Type had trouble really getting a good shine out of my paintjob. Said it took them three times longer than usual. S'pose that had something to do with it.

Yeah, the detailer that originally corrected my car said every time he went to buff the polish residue off the car; he scratched it.pinch.gif

Dale that sucks mate. Especially so, since you spent that time polishing and buffing- I know how much you care, because I know how hard it is to keep a black car.

At least it sounds like you have some contacts in the paint and panel to sort it out. Where did it get scratched if you don't mind me asking- it will go onto my suburb avoidance listtongue.gif

I have a sticker saying 5 year coat or something like that on my car - is that what you guys are calling dealer paint protection?

A suspension guy says he has found a replacement tie rod end that matches the stocker

Should have it tmrw, so will post the part number when I get it :-)

Saving so much money not driving it tho, and the r31 is getting some love too

Dale that sucks mate. Especially so, since you spent that time polishing and buffing- I know how much you care, because I know how hard it is to keep a black car.

At least it sounds like you have some contacts in the paint and panel to sort it out. Where did it get scratched if you don't mind me asking- it will go onto my suburb avoidance listtongue.gif

I have a sticker saying 5 year coat or something like that on my car - is that what you guys are calling dealer paint protection?

Cheers Alex; been garnering a bit of sympathy today from friends and family.:thanks:

Yeah, have been planning to get the door rubbing strips colour coded and the plasitc panel at the base of the hatch repainted; once the new bars went on, they looked a little average...

So I might actually get the whole hatch debadged and re-done; no need to remove parts if he's going to have the whole car. Going to see what the cost is and decide from there; but I think I'll just pay my excess for the rear quarter repair and then add in what I need to get it all done.

It was done in a carpark behind my local shops in Springwood; miles out of the way, and the same cars were parked both sides when I got back.

That's what shits me; an accident, or a scratch from a bag I can deal with, even if they don't leave details. But this was vindictive; someone saw the car, went out of their way to walk over, deliberately got something out , scratched the car, and walked off. Weak flamin mongrel.

38709110150475868546424.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

38836510150475868781424.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Looks good :thumbsup: The 10mm offset change makes all the difference; much nicer wheels.

Springwood QLD?

If so I'll have to keep an eye out next time I'm up there - my sister lives just near there.

Springwood NSW :thumbsup:.

Might be a little out of your way.:whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...