Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 9.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Are the HD brackets free when purchasing from Dale?

No, not free but not expensive either. They aren't a catalogue item. Dale made them / got them made for us.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Are they needed? Id assume if they are Whiteline would offer them?

Now I'm testing my memory. I think a couple of guys with sway bars had the rear mounts crack under the extra load, hence the manufacture of the HD stainless items. Someone with a better memory (or better search skills) might be able to help more.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

And they're very nice and shiny. I wouldn't know if they're necessary or not, but they're a lot beefier, and I have no complaints at all.

I think Dale makes them himself out of stainless?

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, thanks for the support, but I'm not worried if people use 4bidn to buy parts; we're not competing, and I haven't got a bad word to say about him. We're all enthusiasts; and white anting each other benefits no-one.

I'm sure he'll help you out if you decide to purchase through him, and you can always use Whiteline as a resource; their reputation is built on supporting enthusiasts.

I think in the original instance Big Fella was referring to; I wasn't able to give the lowest price due to the fact that I was paying a higher price on individually ordered parts, as opposed to Group Buys.

If you have a legitimate price; I'll happily tell you if I can do better. Postage does hurt the end cost, as it adds a minimum of $20 to any order; they're on the maximum Auspost length and around 14 kg. It's still stacks cheaper than any other option.

I just want to help people get what I have; an awesome handling Stagea, and I've been playing with cars for a long while now, and made a few mistakes along the way, so I've got a fair idea what works, and what doesn't. You're welcome to go your own way.

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo
Big Fella Mentor

Big Fella

Posted
Posted

Maybe 'cause of freight costs? But can he provide the heavy duty rear brackets? Does he provide the same back up service as Dale? I'd pay a bit more just for that....

And that's why I was referring slippy lotion onto him, he is in Sa, works for a national retailer and would have no reason to not help out.

I get all my parts for my own business thru Jason and have never had an issue with returns or exchanges(even when they were my fault)

Just trying to help out, next time I'll stay quiet instead of getting flamed for providing an option.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

I don't think there was any flaming, just those outside of SA don't know Jase, but have dealt with Dale. :thumbsup:

For those with M35s it's worth looking at those HD brackets, or making up your own if you can?

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Sorry Robbie, no flame intended. I read my post back & it did have a 'tone' pinch.gif. Extra options are always welcomed.

I just wanted to back up Dale as I was impressed by the lengths he went to for the GB. It's always more than just emailing the supplier for some parts. Heck, he was that swamped he even had to enlist his 2yo to tape up the swaybars for posting, lol.

Re the rear mounts, they may not be necessary, but I hate doing stuff twice.

Big Fella Mentor

Big Fella

Posted
Posted

All good, just thru rebuilding cars over time I've been stung by buying stuff that's "rare" or hard to get so i bought it online, only to find it would have been cheaper to walk into a shop and buy it locally.

And like most small business owners (tiny really) I like people to buy as local as possible and still get a killer deal.

And no one worry, I didn't take it to heart, its just my small man syndrome coming out :)

Ill leave all of you stagea owners alone now and sulk off back to my empty garage :(

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Now I'm testing my memory. I think a couple of guys with sway bars had the rear mounts crack under the extra load, hence the manufacture of the HD stainless items. Someone with a better memory (or better search skills) might be able to help more.

Yes, The Mounts do crack and brake. I replace 3 of them over 18months before putting on the one from Dale. No problem since.

And the last 2 brakes happen when I had my rear bar on the mid setting not the stiffest.

I believe mine mostly cracked when running on a long trip with a full load.

Cheers

Andy

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted (edited)

You stripping it back anyway, even though it's running?

You asked if it was running......yes it was.....you didn't ask if it was drivable! :P

I didn't have much of a choice unfortunately I had to detune the thing to cross of possible causes...........that I still have the problem is a bit of a worry.

I basically have 2 signals going to the CAS....somehow!rant.gif

P.S. I did get the car to have a clear run once or twice with the CAS connected and only 14psi!....still goes a lot better than standard......it's just not silly anymore.

Edited by Jetwreck
SABBAi Grand Master

SABBAi

Posted
Posted

So I cracekd the TIG out last night and welded up a cat to fit the exhaust up (finally).

China front pipe with flex, Catco high flow 3", and a Fujitsubo cat back. It's to suit an N/A so that's the reason the cat had to be fiddled. Ended up lengthening it 120mm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...