Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol, but how would I get the cams to work?

VQ25 FTW... :thumbsup:

Just sleeve yours out! Wouldn't that work? Then just use some of the darton sleves with some bigger pistons / tomei rods and bolt it all back with your heads.

Work or not?

Your growing an engine farm down there, so just build one of the spare short blocks!:P

Just sleeve yours out! Wouldn't that work? Then just use some of the darton sleves with some bigger pistons / tomei rods and bolt it all back with your heads.

Work or not?

Your growing an engine farm down there, so just build one of the spare short blocks!:P

I could sleeve it out, I have a 3.5 engine here too, but why would I want a longer stroke or a larger piston when i'm making 335kw already? C'mon mate you really need to catch up... :nyaanyaa:

I will probably drop the 2.5dd in if this engine ever retires. High comp, e85 and direct water injection to control the piston temps. :whistling:

1333811397[/url]' post='6307077']

I could sleeve it out, I have a 3.5 engine here too, but why would I want a longer stroke or a larger piston when i'm making 335kw already? C'mon mate you really need to catch up... :nyaanyaa:

Did you want the dyno queen status, or want me to go faster than 13.9? tongue.gif

Hahaha. Think your car is good for it Alex? Wind the wick up and see what she will do, you got to beat 13.5. Can you take off with wheelspin yet? >_<

My takeoff would be fixed by simply opening up the stator on the torque converter but I don't want to go down that path. I want a fast street car not drag.

Hahaha. Think your car is good for it Alex? Wind the wick up and see what she will do, you got to beat 13.5. Can you take off with wheelspin yet? >_<

My takeoff would be fixed by simply opening up the stator on the torque converter but I don't want to go down that path. I want a fast street car not drag.

Lol. Yeah it actually does it I launch it with full boost. Maybe a product of the single spinner buttongue.gif

I have too much mechanical sympathy to flog it hard. I'm going to order some stuff, and then back to the tuner. Might go to the track in between though. Craig has to get to the tuner- cause he want to post a time too with the emanage in.

Was looking at my rear badge i removed and found a better spot for it

post-58831-0-35882500-1333957480_thumb.jpg

Painted the slats after the side rear windows black and the lower section of the dayz rear bar black also.

post-58831-0-86517300-1333957505_thumb.jpg post-58831-0-89643500-1333957489_thumb.jpg post-58831-0-99769800-1333957497_thumb.jpg

and in an attempt to get to the bottom of why my rear sunroof doesn't quite seal all they way, i fully stripped my rear interior. Haven't started looking into rear sunroof yet LOL

post-58831-0-55501000-1333957327_thumb.jpg post-58831-0-26374200-1333957336_thumb.jpg

Car needs a bloody good wash now but i'm buggered. fk it

Be interested to see more photos of the roof when you get time. Don't you hate it how you have to start from the bottom and work your way up.

Be interested to see more photos of the roof when you get time. Don't you hate it how you have to start from the bottom and work your way up.

Haven't fully removed roof lining yet but am going to. Here is shot of the rear roof section that i've removed the lining from.

post-58831-0-72994800-1333965780_thumb.jpg

I was a little frustrated at first and then I quite enjoyed stripping everything out as there was alot of heavy stuff !! I also found a japanese receipt under the rear seat (anyone know what it is from ?)

post-58831-0-44875800-1333965787_thumb.jpg

I also sanded and polished my neo badge as it was unrecognisable !

post-58831-0-42528700-1333965829_thumb.jpg

I also sanded and polished my neo badge as it was unrecognisable !

post-58831-0-42528700-1333965829_thumb.jpg

what did you use on it? mine looks pretty crappy too

also, i think that receipt could be for fuel

what did you use on it? mine looks pretty crappy too

also, i think that receipt could be for fuel

I first used 1200 sandpaper on a block of cork. Then I used a scotch brite pad with autosol, lastly autosol and a rag. I also polished up a dull front head light with autosol and a polish mop on my 18v ryobi drill.

Fuel receipt eh ? cool !

Before with tomei M7655 twins which were laggy and very tame onto boost

post-86035-0-08027500-1334234663_thumb.jpg

Now with the GT3582R (.82) rear, precision 48mm waste gate ,Platinum Pro ecu, 044 fuel pump and ID1000's. Should be a big improvement. hope the clutch holds up

post-86035-0-21485300-1334234522_thumb.jpg

Booked into Tuner on the 24th may

New hi-flow turbo in transit to me so was under the car to pull out the old one with the blown oil seal. The first thing I see was a split drivers side CV boot & the grease spun out everywhere. Great just what I need - more work.

Then, over on the passenger side I see this:

post-76144-0-55482900-1334376817_thumb.jpg

I wonder how this got knocked out of centre?? So, what's the recommended fix? (Big hammer, lol).

Found a small stone chip in my drivers side headlight today. Fuuuuuu.....

Considering the $2500 cost from Nissan, I've live with it. Its small and over the indicator, no hole or anything just a little crack.

Felt so sorry for it, spent the next 45mins or so polishing up the headlights to keep that nasty yellow shit away. :rolleyes:

New hi-flow turbo in transit to me so was under the car to pull out the old one with the blown oil seal. The first thing I see was a split drivers side CV boot & the grease spun out everywhere. Great just what I need - more work.

Then, over on the passenger side I see this:

post-76144-0-55482900-1334376817_thumb.jpg

I wonder how this got knocked out of centre?? So, what's the recommended fix? (Big hammer, lol).

That is exactly the same as my passenger side. Im putting in new ones tomorrow I just had to wait to get on a hoist. I wouldn't bother hitting it I hit mine back and within 2 days it was back.

New hi-flow turbo in transit to me so was under the car to pull out the old one with the blown oil seal. The first thing I see was a split drivers side CV boot & the grease spun out everywhere. Great just what I need - more work.

Then, over on the passenger side I see this:

post-76144-0-55482900-1334376817_thumb.jpg

I wonder how this got knocked out of centre?? So, what's the recommended fix? (Big hammer, lol).

Yep; the centre has been torn out of that bush. She's f**ked.

Leon, I've got a fresh set of Whiteline ones that were due to go into my car shortly; if you like, PM me, and I'll send 'em up. :thumbsup:

Edited by Daleo

Leon, I've got a fresh set of Whiteline ones that were due to go into my car shortly; if you like, PM me, and I'll send 'em up. :thumbsup:

Thanks Dale, I'll PM you for details.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...