Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 1/2" Suction pipe tacked together for a trial fit tomorrow, prior to purge welding.

Now we get to see how accurate my fab is. :whistling:

Nice and tight down there isn't it, I assume that's why you went with 2.5 inch?

Nice and tight down there isn't it, I assume that's why you went with 2.5 inch?

Yep, sure is. Getting your 3" version through must be a good job.

I'm running it through the path taken by the original, and it's only about 6mm wider at the critical point than the OEM one.

I was able to use standard 316L mandrel bends, and I've got a pretty straight shot at the compressor wheel. The inlet on the compressor cover is 2 1/2", so it shouldn't be restrictive.

I've also hooded the Blow Off inlet merge into the suction pipe to hopefully avoid any reversion issues.

The piece I'm looking forward to changing is the section before that, but I don't have any more material (or time to be honest) atm.

Make sure you take some pics Dale - love to see what you've done. Could it be the prototype for a future manufacturing run...? :whistling:

Edited by Commsman

You all realise you will hit airflow cut with the intake done right? Read 'close up view of the windscreen" lol.

It's all downhill from there... :)

Haha, yes, it's a slippery slope - one thing leads to another....

Make sure you take some pics Dale - love to see what you've done. Could it be the prototype for a future manufacturing run...? :whistling:

Will do; lets see if it fits first...

;)

You all realise you will hit airflow cut with the intake done right? Read 'close up view of the windscreen" lol.

It's all downhill from there... :)

Yay! Random windscreen headbutts eh? I love surprises! :woot:

Downhill or uphill? I'm hoping a little bit of bad might lead to some good. Might need to wait for my wallet to recover.

Mine's sitting at the tuner, waiting for tune: can't wait: going for a nice meaty midrange, and earlier spool-up: hopefully with the new turbo manifolds, suction kit and z32s, it should be a no-brainer. Last tune with stock manis, rb26 afm's and stock inlet, it made a safe 297awkw.

Will be interesting to see what happens if it doesn't explode... ;)

Mine's sitting at the tuner, waiting for tune: can't wait: going for a nice meaty midrange, and earlier spool-up: hopefully with the new turbo manifolds, suction kit and z32s, it should be a no-brainer. Last tune with stock manis, rb26 afm's and stock inlet, it made a safe 297awkw.

Will be interesting to see what happens if it doesn't explode... ;)

keep us posted. what turbs you running? Good luck

Been a productive weekend. Installed turbo side cam gasket, replaced in car filter and ran a 5m USB cable from tv tuner in boot to under front armrest so I don't have to go to boot all the time to change USB stick. Next thing to do is fix boot latch, fix exhaust bolt that I snapped and machine front rotors. All will be done by Friday in time for my trip to Sydney next Wednesday for world time attack next weekend. Tiltons Evo for the top honor!!

297kw atw's is impressive already. Isn't amazing how one becomes accustomed to the amount of power. Here I am with a maybe 150kw's at the wheels? and to think of doubling that and then wanting more seems almost crazy for a street car. But there it is. It only seems crazy until one becomes accustomed to it. anyhoo, i'm jealous :D gimme your cc details and i swear i'll feel better ;)

So I decided to knock up a gauge pod to mount a boost gauge on my dash at the base of the A-pillar the other day.

I started with a yum-cha '1 size fits all' generic A-pillar mount i got for cheap off eBay which i then started cutting into shape, followed by a bit of bogging & sanding

Pics:

gaugepod1.jpg

gaugepod2.jpg

And once I was happy with the shape (and many coats of hi-fill later), I painted it with some dark grey paint I had mixed up in a sample pot from Bunnings, applied with a sponge for the textured effect (the colour isnt a perfect match, but its close enough) & then stuck it to the dash with dounle sided tape

gaugepod3.jpg

gaugepod4.jpg

I'm in half a mind to re-do it so that the line at the bottom matches the line of the vent underneath it, but finding the time is the problem - that & the fact that I couldn't be arsed. :unsure:

That gauge pod is pretty cool, but did you consider trying to put it in the top vent hole? Nothing much goes in or out of there; I've had mine blocked for ages & noticed no difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...