Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-94823-0-15349500-1411972212_thumb.jpgpost-94823-0-82692300-1411972279_thumb.jpgpost-94823-0-82924700-1411972300_thumb.jpgpost-94823-0-71147300-1411972322_thumb.jpgJust in the middle of installing my paddle shifter from a 350gt-8. I was not game enough to remove the steering wheel off/airbag, so I cut the paddles into halves to be able to fit the paddles around the steering wheel.

  • Like 1

attachicon.gif20140613_225446.jpgattachicon.gifWP_000400.jpgattachicon.gifWP_000402.jpgattachicon.gifWP_000403.jpgJust in the middle of installing my paddle shifter from a 350gt-8. I was not game enough to remove the steering wheel off/airbag, so I cut the paddles into halves to be able to fit the paddles around the steering wheel.

How do you plan on attaching it? aren't the screw positions still behind the steering wheel?

Gave a bit of love to the old girl today.

Changed the clock spring to hopefully fix the airbag fault I've been getting, as in the thread I posted.

Secondly, got four new tyres on her. Same tyres I ordered from tyre rack last time- continental extreme contact DW. Can't fault them. Only a bad alignment prematurely killed a pair of them, so hopefully they'll be good for a good while to come. Got the two 1/2 decent ones as backups incase something goes bad.

How do you get them to work? Is there already a plug on the loom somewhere for it or do you have to run wires yourself?

I have to run wires to the centre console and splice into the transmission wiring by the lever. Use 2 relays to activate up or down. I write up a how to install paddle shifter from a 350gt-8 when Im done. A guy from Nz north island has done the same thing on his v35 and its working perfectly.

post-94823-0-96033600-1412061975_thumb.jpgpost-94823-0-83211400-1412061993_thumb.jpgpost-94823-0-51125700-1412062011_thumb.jpg

How do you plan on attaching it? aren't the screw positions still behind the steering wheel?

I had to remove the top and bottom shroud for the steering column, once the clock spring is exposed, there are 2 holes above already there for it. So I just turn the steering wheel until I clear the holes and then just use a short tapping screws to attached it. Then I made up a bracket for the bottom piece to add rigidity for the paddles(not necessary as the top screws makes it all secure). Then I had to use the v35 top/bottom shrouds(with a bit of modification) to cover it all. Can use the M35

shrouds but its alot of cutting/messing around.

  • Like 4

attachicon.gifWP_000422.jpgattachicon.gifWP_000423.jpgattachicon.gifWP_000424.jpg

I had to remove the top and bottom shroud for the steering column, once the clock spring is exposed, there are 2 holes above already there for it. So I just turn the steering wheel until I clear the holes and then just use a short tapping screws to attached it. Then I made up a bracket for the bottom piece to add rigidity for the paddles(not necessary as the top screws makes it all secure). Then I had to use the v35 top/bottom shrouds(with a bit of modification) to cover it all. Can use the M35

shrouds but its alot of cutting/messing around.

jo how much did the paddles set you back mate?
  • Like 1

Managed to find the time yesterday to get the plugs and coils out. Covered coils in silecone. Replaced plugs made sure they were tapped to 0.8.

Degreased the engine and replaced the rocker breather hose. Started up and wad missfiring hard.

Checked this morning and coil plug slightly off.

No more hesitation at 3k and running like a dream :)

Busy weekend. New battery, biggest I could fit, 260Lx170Wx200H, 680CCA, bit of aluminium for the strap, earth lead pointing backwards to clear the fuse box.

Nice new clean pollen filter in the background sucking fresh air from the battery compartment!?

post-135423-0-87683100-1412159372_thumb.jpgpost-135423-0-14645200-1412159430_thumb.jpg

Finally got rid of the stuffed Bose stereo (someone needs a slap for designing that circuit board with the integrated AC controls)

Alpine CDE-154EBT, custom colour display to match the interior lights. Got my roof mount DVD playing through the front screen.

My car also came from Japan with an "R-spec, NTV-165, Multi-vision Controller" which allows PASSENGERS to watch movies while driving (Mr police officer).

Found a glovebox light while putting in the stereo which I could not get to work, globe was good, all fuses good, found something online about it coming on with parkers but still no good so I decided to wire it up to constant power and a switch so it comes on when you open the glovebox (perfect spot for a switch if you take out the right hand side rubber bump stop). Modified the holder to take a bigger bulb and opened it up where it clips in to let more light through. (Too much work for a glovebox light!?)

post-135423-0-56122700-1412160649_thumb.jpgpost-135423-0-26779600-1412160686_thumb.jpg

post-135423-0-79278900-1412160727_thumb.jpgpost-135423-0-38375000-1412160753_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Ordered the last 2 bits i think i need for the next stage on my M35 (apologies to Scotty for taking up more of his spare time ;) )

3rd week in November has been pencilled in for tuning :woot:

  • Like 2

yeah mate Emanage.

I've thought about it a lot and for a car that's only really driven on the weekend (besides getting me to and from the train station of a weekday) there is a limit to what i want to spend.

Looking forward to the results.

Fixed oil leak in both cam covers. Drilled out 2 broken bolts and re threaded. Now to burn off excess degreaser and back to normal. Reinstalled dales front underbody brace from underneath supports to above. Fits in there nicely. No occasional underbody bumps now. Flush!!

  • Like 3

In the end no mate.

I'm going to make the slightly painful drive up north to Cavan and see Shaun at Boostworx.

Hopefully all goes more or less smooth.

Interesting. Let us know how you get on!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...