Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not really worth the cost with other options out there but each to their own.

Yes, If money is your concern then this build really isn't for you.

Went for a decent drive then down the freeway around a few open roads. lots of change of speeds from 60 to 110+... very happy with how this has turned out.

Edited by Beregron

Yes, If money is your concern then this build really isn't for you.

Went for a decent drive then down the freeway around a few open roads. lots of change of speeds from 60 to 110+... very happy with how this has turned out.

Money is always going to come into play with any conversion/modification.

But the way that i see it is that we are all on the hunt for more power or performance, if we weren't then we would leave it stock. I'm happy for someone to correct me, but by doing this conversion, replacing the auto transmission to a manual, and going RWD, you will end up with less power loss through the transmission and in theory you will be getting better wheel KW than before without touching the motor. Especially down low when you are cruising around town where the majority of the power is used day to day.

Yes it may be expensive, but I have seen people spending huge amount of dollars for small power gains.

Edited by DrLui

Some people have half of that value tied up in just a turbo changeover...

It's all relative.

Good on you Beau; go your own way mate, I bet it's going to be awesome.

  • Like 4

Good stuff Beau, thanks to you and your mech for the read! :thumbsup:

Yeah no dramas at all.

If this can help people then that's what it's all about. I know i'm going to enjoy it :)

These kind of write ups are needed more. Most places dont like doing this to have the work come to them. They dont realise that even though they have written up, owners are still going to go to them knowing that owners will get what they want. Unlike a tuning shop in qld that hides all from potential customers.

  • Like 2

Thank you Beau for sharing our link :) We are hoping our guide/parts list will help the next person/workshop wanting to do this conversion.

We did the write up as it was occasionally frustrating throughout the build having very little information. We wanted to keep Beau's bill to a minimum and not buy a large amount of trial parts that couldn't be used. This is why it took longer than a normal manual conversion as we needed to look into every part first.

Yes, this conversion isn't the cheapest one out there however it is something Beau wanted to spend his hard earned money on :) The labour cost of this conversion was the cheapest part of the job. The parts were the biggest cost factor. Which is another reason we decided to give out a parts list, so those wanting to tackle the conversion can start a parts corner in their garage!
Note: the parts we used/suggest may not be the only options, with more research/trial fits there might be other models that will also work.

We have to say a thank you to Beau as without him doing this conversion, we wouldn't have a list to share :)

  • Like 10

Today i got the following done

- took 350z seats out and gave them a good scrub.

- As the passenger side seat pressure sensor is hardwired on m35s, i installed a airbag plug for easy removal next time i have to remove the seats.

- Installed the brake cut mod at the auto gear lever so when in park it closes the pressure switch.

- I picked up a front drivers door to replace mine from someone running into it a while ago. Just needs a respray as the paint is not the best but atleast its straight

- I also sourced the orange interior panels and centre console to go with my 350z seats and to upgrade to the aircon vents being in the rear of the centre console for rear passengers. (You will see in the pic i got a rear boot roof panel not hacked to bits)

Tomorrow i will be installing the drivers door and replacing the top steering column cover due to old boost gauge install.

Edited by joshm35
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...