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Hunting down a intermittent engine light issue. I have narrowed it down to something in the dash or the actual dash. Iv pulled everything out and cleaned jiggled wires. Just a question for those in the know, what is the black box with all the wires that is on the right hand side of the dash hole?

actually I was just poking around under mine today, and I have a black box with lots of wires between the fuse box and the driver's kick panel, its a kind of super interior box which beeps, does central locking etc etc.

why do you think the problem is under the dash. do you know what the error code actually is?

Error code is primary ignition, but since she is a wasted spark set up with a new coil pack it's pretty unlikely. That and if I bang the dash the light goes out. I messed around behind the dash and the light stayed off for 100km then came on, then bashed the dash and now it's off again. I'd like the fix to be permanent as I'm trading her for a pnm35.

It could be, but I would prefer to not spend 1 k refitting the original coil set up, on a car I am getting a 2k trade in on. The C34 has had the wasted spark set up over five years and runs great. The car still runs great! The new coil pack and ECU reset has made it run even better! But the engine light issue is only a year old, and as I said goes away when I hit the dash. The only success I have had in keeping it off is by messing around with the wiring behind the dash. Hence why I believe there is so thing lose back there that is causing the engine to short on and off. Or that's the theory today.

It could be, but I would prefer to not spend 1 k refitting the original coil set up, on a car I am getting a 2k trade in on. The C34 has had the wasted spark set up over five years and runs great. The car still runs great! The new coil pack and ECU reset has made it run even better! But the engine light issue is only a year old, and as I said goes away when I hit the dash. The only success I have had in keeping it off is by messing around with the wiring behind the dash. Hence why I believe there is so thing lose back there that is causing the engine to short on and off. Or that's the theory today.

Recently had the rust repair done on both of my cars ($1360 for both). (about 4 weeks ago now). Since we have decided to put my RSfourS up for sale. Not wanting to let it go due to plans for it. but if it sells it sells if not ill be happy to keep it with the rust repaired. but selling as we are looking to upgrade to a bigger car (Elgrand). I will post link up at some point or if anyone is interested (tuned to 244KW, high km's chassis low km's engine, $16,000 atm) it will definetely be missed.

So next on my to do list was to upgrade the cooling system on my M35. Radiator, coolant bypass mod, water pump, Nismo thermostat and I also got a high pressure Nismo cap which I put on straight away because it looked pretty. Probably not the best idea as after about two days the top tank on my radiator has cracked. Maybe coincidence as it was 13 years old but I don't think so. So when my new radiator with plastic tanks turns up (thanks Scotty), should I ditch the Nismo cap? Anyone been running a Nismo cap on a plastic tanked radiator for any length of time?

So next on my to do list was to upgrade the cooling system on my M35. Radiator, coolant bypass mod, water pump, Nismo thermostat and I also got a high pressure Nismo cap which I put on straight away because it looked pretty. Probably not the best idea as after about two days the top tank on my radiator has cracked. Maybe coincidence as it was 13 years old but I don't think so. So when my new radiator with plastic tanks turns up (thanks Scotty), should I ditch the Nismo cap? Anyone been running a Nismo cap on a plastic tanked radiator for any length of time?

Plastic top tanks do fail but a brand new one should be fine with the new cap. But ditch the Nismo thermostat - it serves no useful purpose but just delays warming up to optimum operating temperature.

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