Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys im new to the skyline club. i have had a r33 det makeing 270rwhp and a 180sx with rb25 stagear makeing 401rwhp with stock internalls did 12.1 at 128mph. i have just brought anther r33 and have started some mods power fc gtr fule pump 3.5 exhaust by xforce.fmic xforce mid mount manafoild with a gt3582r turbo hanging from it not much room left there its tight. is going on the dyno on monday the 7 of feb if i can get the pipe work to stay together clamps keep leting go. im going to run 20 to 25psi c how it goes. should make 400 easy. just wont to know if any one can tel the fastest r33 street car they know of with street tyers normal pump gas and what not

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352003-r33-street-drag-car-project/
Share on other sites

I’ve been further even more decided to use even go need to do look more as anyone can. Can you really be far even as decided half as much to use go wish for that? My guess is that when one really been far even as decided once to use even go want, it is then that he has really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like.

mate do u even have upgraded injectors???

i wouldnt run more than 20 psi

those mods are never going to get close to fastest street r33 or what ever it is u want to do

dont see how u have problems with clamps blowing off either, i run a 600hp gtr with t88 and 26psi and have never had a hose or clamp let go.

ive seen street r33 gtst's go into 10's and they are way more advanced then what your planning to do

Aiming for 400rwhp with a GT35 on 20psi?

More like 500rwhp, and likely a busted motor.

There are plenty of GTS-t's deep into the 10s drive there/drive home. No doubt there have been some that have done 9's, its not a particularly hard combo to get right motor/power wise, just the driving and traction set up is.

  • 2 weeks later...

its a build project and wont to c how fast you can go with very little mods may be people out there with big mods and lots of money spent wont to show people you dont need to spend big bucks to go quick.. may think im crazy but im pretty sure il be able to get to the 10sec mark on just bolt on parts thats the point of the project at this point in time

great point r31nismoid makes is you dont need big power to go fast. no point 10grand on a motor if you carnt get tracion. there is a lot of people out there think you need to spend that money to go fast. my build is just to show you dont need to. what you think of it is up to you.car went on dyno on friday made 300whp on 12 psi and at 6000rpm as motor start to run out fule. mondy come wil put in 750cc injectors and 044 fule pump. motor wil make alot more than 400 hp but thats what il leave it at and take it to the track. so far it has only gost me about 6grand and that was buying the car aswell

i wouldnt count on u running a 10

i spent a fair bit on my gtst when i had it, it only had bolt ons, made 300kw and i still didnt run a 10.

2rismo only just recently ran a 10.7 with full built motor, c4 auto and everything else, look up his thread in the drag section

I've been further even more decided to use even go need to do look more as anyone can. Can you really be far even as decided half as much to use go wish for that? My guess is that when one really been far even as decided once to use even go want, it is then that he has really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like.

ahahah everyone at work is asking me why im pissing my self at this..

great point r31nismoid makes is you dont need big power to go fast. no point 10grand on a motor if you carnt get tracion. there is a lot of people out there think you need to spend that money to go fast. my build is just to show you dont need to. what you think of it is up to you.car went on dyno on friday made 300whp on 12 psi and at 6000rpm as motor start to run out fule. mondy come wil put in 750cc injectors and 044 fule pump. motor wil make alot more than 400 hp but thats what il leave it at and take it to the track. so far it has only gost me about 6grand and that was buying the car aswell

Lets be realistic. Of course you don’t need to spend big cash to run a 10

However to do it reliably – that’s the issue.

Honestly I reckon in just parts and stuff I could get a car into the 10s for under 10k in parts if you DIY labour

China turbo & dump to side pipe – 1500

China gate – 200

China manifold (or stocker modded) – 400

Nistune/Tune – 1000

Ebay hi-flow injectors or 2nd hand – 500

Cheap I/C kit – 500

Clutch – 1200

Drag radials/rims – 1.5-2k?

Cage (need a cage to run 10s) – 1200

Misc piping and fittings etc – 1000

$9000

You’d run a 10 no problem. But you couldn’t expect the car to drive nicely, perform well or handle at all well.

Running a 10 on the cheap really proves nothing more than it can be done, we all know that it can be done it’s just that people want to do it more than once.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...