Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Still tossing up between keeping the Brembos or fitting the Akebono set... Do I really want 19-20 inch rims? Perhaps if I can find a set of R35 wheels...

What's that I hear? Your selling me your brembos?:D

Still tossing up between keeping the Brembos or fitting the Akebono set... Do I really want 19-20 inch rims? Perhaps if I can find a set of R35 wheels...

Only if you want to be awesome like Craig and I....

Btw, 20s will be butthurt for track tyres.

Still tossing up between keeping the Brembos or fitting the Akebono set... Do I really want 19-20 inch rims? Perhaps if I can find a set of R35 wheels...

well let me know cos I got cash waiting........... is it that exact kit or only callipers ?

I'm trying to find the brake kit that Spoolin used on his car on CZP, is it the '03-'07 G35 brake kit, should bolt straight on yeah ???

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3128&Car_Type=G35&UID=20130628021026115.64.91.48

Yes, except he had the silver Infiniti calipers instead of the black Nissan one's. Same-same, but different

  • 2 months later...

I haven't updated in a long time but the to do list is as follow's

1) Wideband AFR meter installed. with custom dual pod holder for it and the boost guage where the sunglass holder used to be gave up on the fibreglass and made a metal one that I now have to make pretty LOL.

2) Waiting on my OB-Link to connect up to my Nexus 7 tablet so I can run some more gauges; Water Temp, Air Temp, Oil Temp, Trans Temp, Fuel Pressure and Volts all depending if the stock ECU supports this.

3) Waiting on Flush mount bonnet pins before I get my vented bonnet sprayed and installed. (hoping to have this done before the Stagea meet on the 29th)

4) Waiting on my Akebono brakes to arrive and then I can order my 18" track rims ready for the track day on the 29th of October.

then finally #5 highflow turbo as its almost reached 100,000km and I have every chance of blowing it on the track day HAHA

along with the supporting mod's of fuel pump, injectors and a retune!!! :D

pic's will be up as soon as they are completed!!!

4) Waiting on my Akebono brakes to arrive and then I can order my 18" track rims ready for the track day on the 29th of October.

They are boxed, ready to send mate. What a mission, 70kg including the box so you will need to pick it up from the depot. I will PM you about it.

2) Waiting on my OB-Link to connect up to my Nexus 7 tablet so I can run some more gauges; Water Temp, Air Temp, Oil Temp, Trans Temp, Fuel Pressure and Volts all depending if the stock ECU supports this.

you wont get trans temp or fuel pressure, but you can display the rest

Why not sell the Fail-Con....sorry F-Con and go adaptronic with a digital dash. http://adaptronic.com.au/products.html?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_new.tpl&product_id=49&category_id=5 Then you can have everything.

Better yet just get a Greddy informeter

Edited by Jetwreck

damn now I have to figure out what else might be useful instead HAHA

if you haven't got your OB-Link set up by the time the cruise comes along, you're more than welcome to have a look at my one & see what it does

and Craig, what does the informeter show that the OB-Link wont? just curious because I did consider going informeter before i got the OB-Link/tablet setup

It depends if you get the external sensor harness, then it displays oil pressure, oil temp, boost pressure, wideband o2 analogue input as well as the usual (accurate) speed, timing, injector data through the OBD2 port.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...