Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its hard to see Dale cos its white and plain but once the bonnet is painted and glossy then it'll look really good.......

That is a sexy beast! Hmm bonnet upgrade one day maybe? Haha

Where did that bonnet come from? Modelled from a Dolphin or is it a Dolphin one?

yep its a freeway dolphin bonnet apparentely the first one thats popped up for sale in 4 years.

they dont make them anymore, so was lucky to pick it up second hand!!!

apparently when new they sold for $1600 but i'm hoping to make them for under $1200, going to speak to some mates but i'm thinking i need atleast 5-10 people who are keen to make it worth my while.

yep its a freeway dolphin bonnet apparentely the first one thats popped up for sale in 4 years.

they dont make them anymore, so was lucky to pick it up second hand!!!

apparently when new they sold for $1600 but i'm hoping to make them for under $1200, going to speak to some mates but i'm thinking i need atleast 5-10 people who are keen to make it worth my while.

Any chance of a carbon one...?

Any chance of a carbon one...?

couldnt be to hard LOL i'll sus it out aswell.

need to get corvettes secret in clear coating for that one LOL so it doesnt get UV damage!!!

  • 1 month later...

well after having a ball at Texi on Saturday my power steering is broken,

so its either I blew a pressure seal in the rack or the pump, its not leaking but it don't work.

at first I thought it was intermittent but now im pretty sure it doesn't work at all.

also a side note: maybe Alex would know, is the Series 1 and 2 power steering setups different seeing as the S2 came with a cooler? just wondering cos I would like to upgrade as I believe the S1 unit cant stand up to the abuse of full opposite lock drifting HAHA

I'm pretty sure the pump is the same, except a (piss small) cooler was added in one of the lines. It sits right at the front in front of the A/C condensor.

Your not running a P/S cooler? If not, get a small PWR cooler, and plumb it in the return line. I think several guys should be able to let you know their set ups. I think a seal in the pump unit is the first to go.

It's well known the pump will fail at the track without a cooler. Any small core will do, I am using a motorbike oil cooler but I have a spare small trans cooler here you could buy cheap if you want...

its called full lock drifting to much pressure/stress I would assume, I just wanted to know if the S2 pump or rack was different/better otherwise I will get mine rebuilt and modified so that this doesn't happen again if I decide to go drifting again.

like I said it wasn't leaking anywhere and I couldn't see it boiling in the reservoir and the cooler wasn't hot enough to burn my hand but that was after I felt it fail.

Did you use a spray can on the bonnet. Would look mad in 3m black or carbon vinyl wrap

yes I got the black off it and used a spray can so it wouldn't stand out as much to the police, but it'll be taken back off and finish being high filled and painted properly.

yeah it would look mad in black or carbon but I don't want it to stand out an pull unwanted attention :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...