Jump to content
SAU Community

Russman's Time Attack Build

Russman

By Russman,
in Motorsport Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ryno Experienced

Ryno

Posted
Posted (edited)

The gurney was actually mounted underneath the wing to begin with but spoke to an aero guy at WTAC and he recommended putting it above the wing so it sits higher as a result.

The Gurney Flap should always be mounted on the top side of the wing, but this is not to do with the height of the Gurney Flap, but rather maintaining a laminar flow on the underside of the wing (as this is the side of the wing that you need to avoid boundary layer separation). A gurney flap modifies the flow of air over the wing to maintain boundary layer contact and provide an increase in down force without the trade off of a proportional increase in drag. It's definitely not a case of bigger is better, like the wing itself... in the case of your gurney flap - you'd find that due to the large size of it, it would be creating a vortex at high speeds which is increasing drag to a greater amount than the downforce you are gaining.

The idea of using a gurney flap is definitely the correct one, though if you reduce the size of it, you should have more downforce for less drag, best of both worlds!

Edited by Ryno
  • Replies 533
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Russman
Russman

Pulled the gearbox apart and what a mess! That's what 'clicking 3rd' with hot 295 AO50's will do to a 33 gearbox!  With some bits purchased from another donor box and help from Donny at For

Russman
Russman

Clean and up in the air. Final bits of work required to hit the track in November.

Russman
Russman

Wow. Yeah it has been a long time since an update in this thread. It's been laid up for a while. Sitting on stands and collecting dust. The last 2 years of my life has been a case of home renovation

Posted Images

FST513 Mentor

FST513

Posted
Posted

So much win in this thread... Good to see you again mate and hang out and have a beer!

Will text you soon. Got lots of pics of the car so will just send them through on a disk in high res and and post them up here also :)

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The Gurney Flap should always be mounted on the top side of the wing, but this is not to do with the height of the Gurney Flap, but rather maintaining a laminar flow on the underside of the wing (as this is the side of the wing that you need to avoid boundary layer separation). A gurney flap modifies the flow of air over the wing to maintain boundary layer contact and provide an increase in down force without the trade off of a proportional increase in drag. It's definitely not a case of bigger is better, like the wing itself... in the case of your gurney flap - you'd find that due to the large size of it, it would be creating a vortex at high speeds which is increasing drag to a greater amount than the downforce you are gaining.

The idea of using a gurney flap is definitely the correct one, though if you reduce the size of it, you should have more downforce for less drag, best of both worlds!

Cool. Yeah it was moved above for the low pressure flow on the underside, not for height.

So much win in this thread... Good to see you again mate and hang out and have a beer!

Will text you soon. Got lots of pics of the car so will just send them through on a disk in high res and and post them up here also :)

Awesome! Can't wait to see them!

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

how much for a pair of fiberglass head light?

Hey Fatz. Dunno. Well I was only going to make one set and then make some in cf. I'm not an expert with this stuff. Most of it was done by my mate Matt. Spose we could make some more.

By the way thanks for the offer of GTR rocker covers at WTAC. Didn't need them in the end but thanks anyway! Is simon on SAU forums?

  • 2 weeks later...
Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey russman,

Wheres the best place to get lexan windows front and rear and a plastic rear windscreen?

I was down at wtac your car looked and sounded great!

I wouldn't be replacing front glass!

Plastics4performance is where we got them from. Check out a thread in the motorsport section on it. They do take a long time to arrive so allow 6-8 weeks. They say less but that is what it took for ours.

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I thought I'd already put this up. It's the only one I have done so far. Need to convert more files on my computer and try and find the faster laps.

This one was on track to be a 38 something going by sector splits but it went BANG! Love the sound of breaking metal! I've listened to it so many times haha

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I picked up the OE, std equipment, that is original factory Nissan, ie doesn't break gearboxes and allows for faster shifts shifter for you on the weekend. Irrespective of whether you need to keep the gearbox or not...you should use a std shifter !

I will mate :)

Russ what are you revving to on the track?

Dunno tacho doesn't work lol. Pretty sure RL is set to 7400?

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think I'll leave it there for now. The WTAC story is a big one so I'll post that up at a later date.

So I said I’d finish the story of my WTAC later so here it is. It’s a pretty epic story and I tried to capture the excitement that we had over the weekend.

Thursday was a practice day and my only chance to get seat time at EC before the event. Very lucky we did because the crank case breathing setup I did in Melbourne didn’t work as well as I had hoped and I ended up only having 2 sessions on the track. Lucky we did all this on the Thursday rather than Friday during the event.

Friday it was all go and the car was running well. Immediately the times were faster than last year by a couple of seconds but I wasn’t getting into the 1min 30’s yet. Because of the forecast of rain we decided to put on the soft compound tyres to give it our best shot early on. Unfortunately every session we had was red flagged because of oil on the track, or car recovery’s where cars were stuck in sand traps around the circuit. Very disappointing and we thought we’d has missed out on the best track conditions of the day only getting down to a 1:40.2. The officials decided to re-run our group at the end of the day because all three sessions had been cut short with red flags. Finally we had our chance at a good clear track and we set our fastest time so far with a 1:39.6. So we’d gotten into the 30’s!!! In a way the pressure was off as that was nearly 3 secs faster than last year and enough for me to go home happy. Would Saturday bring more??

First session on Saturday and I was more confident in the car. Happy that I’d already posted a good time I wanted to push harder! Again RED FLAGS! Cars off the track within the first few laps! They lined us up for a re-run and 2 Hondas went off in the warm up laps! Idiots!! That was session 1 over…

Session 2 on Saturday defined our weekend. I had a clear track and was on a flier, all I needed to do was change gears 1 more time into 5th and across the line on what was probably my best lap of the weekend to that point. When I loaded up 5th gear… bang! 5th gear broke about 200m short of the finish line.

I came into the pits and thought that was the weekend over and we’d be telling stories of what could have been. Instead the guys were listening to the pit intercom to find out how much time we had. A good friend Troy Brisby had a spare gearbox and within 10 minutes it was on the ground next to the car and the challenge was set. 5 of my good mates were crawling under the car stripping things off all over the place. Others were running around the pits looking for a trade stand that sold gearbox oil. The car was still pretty hot and one of the guys burnt his hand getting the starter motor off.

Fortunately for us Tarzan Yamada had coated the track with oil in the Cyber Evo and that bought us valuable time. As our session was getting closer I was in the car filling the gearbox through the shifter and putting on my race suit. Working to the time frame the car was put back on the ground with 1 bolt in the starter, no exhaust gaskets, a few other missing mounts and a cold engine. I went to select a gear and it didn’t go into gear! Something was wrong with the clutch or spigot bearing

The guys pushed me down pit lane until I could engage a gear and I did the first half of the lap rev matching gears. I was thinking I’d have to come back into the pits coz I wasn’t going to do a fast lap without a clutch! Somehow the clutch came unstuck and started working at about turn 3 or 4 and then I had to get the tyres/brakes etc up to temp. As I came past the start/finish lap the chequered flag was waved at the car behind me which meant if I was only 10 seconds later I wouldn’t have even had a lap!

The lap was wild and a bit messy in parts but it was fast, the changes we did to wing angles was noticeable and I think I was driving more aggressively because I felt like I had nothing to lose! I crossed the line and was pretty amazed by the time I saw. 1:38.571. Over a second quicker than Friday and about 4 seconds quicker than last year. It was good enough for 20th in Open class and 7th fastest RWD.

It was such an epic event and I’m so happy with how it turned out. In a way it brought everyone together more as it’s a team sport at this level. It really was a fairy tale ending. I couldn’t have done it without the support and help from my mates Matt, Johnny, Campbell, Ryan, Mark, Bobby and Troy.

Thanks to my sponsors. Ace Workshop, Import monster, Snap-on Tools Clayton, Advan and Fulcrum suspensions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...