Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Only a few people have PM'd me about photos. Folks in order for the photographers to come all the way out we need more interest registered.

If you want killer shots of your high speed awesomeness - PM me so we can ensure it is a go.

5 more sleeps, come on.

My searching prowess is very limited, as is time at the moment. Can someone point me in the right direction for some 'track day preparation' advice? I'm particularly keen to know what tyre pressure I should be aiming for.

Also, is anyone else driving down from Sydney at the crack of dawn on Sat morning??

I'm particularly keen to know what tyre pressure I should be aiming for.

My understanding on tyre pressures are as follows... there are so many variable factors that there is no one ideal tyre pressure for any car/track as it comes down to the car, tyre and driver preference.

If this is your first track day on street tyres, I would suggest simply increasing your tyre pressures by around 2-4 psi higher than what you would usually use on the street and leaving it at that. You will increase your times faster by learning what lines to take than altering your tyre pressures ;)

Personally, I aim for around 30psi hot on all corners on my not quite standard R33 on Federal 595RS-Rs. Don't know if it's right or wrong, but it's what I use lol

My understanding on tyre pressures are as follows... there are so many variable factors that there is no one ideal tyre pressure for any car/track as it comes down to the car, tyre and driver preference.

If this is your first track day on street tyres, I would suggest simply increasing your tyre pressures by around 2-4 psi higher than what you would usually use on the street and leaving it at that. You will increase your times faster by learning what lines to take than altering your tyre pressures ;)

Personally, I aim for around 30psi hot on all corners on my not quite standard R33 on Federal 595RS-Rs. Don't know if it's right or wrong, but it's what I use lol

This is a great start Cassbo, thanks. I am indeed going on cheap street tyres, which will be the second biggest restriction (behind me as the driver)

Eric put me down for still shots of awsomeness as well, not only will I have the Go Pro to get the moving pictures of my epicness (bad skills) but the stills will show my super (lame) styles from the outside.

MOREPICSORBAN

Street tyres are a good way to learn,

you will feel any suspension issues (understeer, oversteer etc) much easier than when on grippy semi's

But the lower corner speed will mean you will be harder on brakes as you have to brake for longer

But the lower corner speed will mean you will be harder on brakes as you have to brake for longer

I have to disagree on that... stickier tyres will be harder on brakes as you will be able to brake harder and later than you would if you had street tyres.

A combination of Project Mu HC+ pads and Porche Cup slicks absolutely ruined my standard rotors :laugh:

I have to disagree on that... stickier tyres will be harder on brakes as you will be able to brake harder and later than you would if you had street tyres.

A combination of Project Mu HC+ pads and Porche Cup slicks absolutely ruined my standard rotors :laugh:

100% Agree.

You can carry more corner speed, but you can also put down more power, and earlier on sticky tyres, and you'll work the brakes much harder.

5 more sleeps, come on.

My searching prowess is very limited, as is time at the moment. Can someone point me in the right direction for some 'track day preparation' advice? I'm particularly keen to know what tyre pressure I should be aiming for.

Also, is anyone else driving down from Sydney at the crack of dawn on Sat morning??

On road rubber i'd say let the pressures down 5-10 psi depending how hard you run them because on the track they will heat up fast and pressures will shoot up. Check them straight away after your first session and adjust as needed.

Oh and dont use your handbrake when you get into the pits after a session. It's hard fighting the habit though.

On road rubber i'd say let the pressures down 5-10 psi...

Oh and dont use your handbrake when you get into the pits after a session. It's hard fighting the habit though.

Thanks gregor for the tips. On last check my tyres were 36 psi so I take it the global advice would be to drop this figure to close to 30 all round, to be checked after the first session.

I'm going to print a "don't use the handbrake" sign - that's one habit it is going to be hard to break.

So, anyone driving down at 5:30am on Sat morning??

I'll have to disagree with gregor... I found a higher tyre pressure on street tyres works well as street tyres do not have as reinforced sidewalls as semi slicks. This should reduce tyre wall flex which is important as you are going to be a lot harder on your tyre's sidewalls than if you were on the street.

I haven't used street tyres on my Skyline for a while now, but when I did I kept my tyre pressures around the 36psi cold mark, then at the track bump them up to around 38-40. After a session I would set them at around 41-42psi hot... but that was when they were well and truly overheated and didn't want to grip the track anymore and you want to avoid doing this too much as it degrades the rubber. This may seem high, but my tyre wear was still consistent with under inflation (and/or someone who uses the steering wheel as a brake of sorts :blush:)

My previous comment still stands, focus on getting consistent (not to be confused with fast) lap times before trying to change too much with the car ;)

EDIT

Asking about tyre pressures is relatable to asking how long a peice of string is :laugh:

Just curious as to who will have room for a passenger out on the track? I'll bring my helmet!

I've been in a few GTRs as I'm looking at which way I want to take my stagea rs260.

If anyone with power figures between 300-500kws and has room let me know.

Also wouldn't mind going out in a big single turbo one to see the difference or more responsive turbo vs laggy ones?

Thanks

Nick

Edited by Verms

I'll have to disagree with gregor... I found a higher tyre pressure on street tyres works well as street tyres do not have as reinforced sidewalls as semi slicks. This should reduce tyre wall flex which is important as you are going to be a lot harder on your tyre's sidewalls than if you were on the street.

I haven't used street tyres on my Skyline for a while now, but when I did I kept my tyre pressures around the 36psi cold mark, then at the track bump them up to around 38-40. After a session I would set them at around 41-42psi hot... but that was when they were well and truly overheated and didn't want to grip the track anymore and you want to avoid doing this too much as it degrades the rubber. This may seem high, but my tyre wear was still consistent with under inflation (and/or someone who uses the steering wheel as a brake of sorts :blush:)

My previous comment still stands, focus on getting consistent (not to be confused with fast) lap times before trying to change too much with the car ;)

EDIT

Asking about tyre pressures is relatable to asking how long a peice of string is :laugh:

Will be heading out to the track this Sat too so see you guys out there.

Agree with tyre pressure comments above.

30 psi tyre pressures are for the real (ie RE55s etc) semi-slicks with the heavily reinforced side walls I believe.

Street tyres are generally run at the 40psi + mark. I think the Circuit Club instructors actually recommended 45psi (hot) for street tyres.

I am using RE070s on the front this weekend for the first time. These are the softer (treadwear 140) Bridgestone OEM tyres for the WRX Sti which apparently have strong side walls. Will be interested to see how they perform. Running standard Adrenalins (RE070 only come in one size in 17) on the back so hope they keep up!

Dani.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...