Sau Tas Track Day #2

[sav man]

do you have any pics of the day?

[zoidbergmerc]

I didn't take any, I think funz did though.

[XRATED]

I had a ball yesterday... pitty I was having issues all damn day.

I blew up a turbotech boost controller

I blew off one hose and destroyed 2 others!

I was just running out of brakes after 2 hot laps... Yellow stuff pads and dba slotted rotors= fail track day (r33 on my r32). The 4 year old federal 595's were only good for 2 hot laps before they started to heat up too much.

I did dip into the 63's though at 1 bar of boost ha ha ha... (tuned to 1.5bar- high 29Xrwkw)

Next day, I'll check my tyre pressures too :-) there was 4 psi difference between the fronts cold- ha ah ha. And better brakes!!!

Cheers

Justin

[toffy]

i've heard qfm pads are the go , them or ultimates , i'm gunna try qfm's for the next track day , the 25 loves it then justin???

[XRATED]

When it was running right, it sounded and moved allright.. From a ratio/turbo size/engine set up point of view, it was pretty good.

Really needs swaybars and more camber too.

Same old story, brakes and tyres let me down.

She went allright for a simple street car.

[pipster11]

from what i've read qfm pads at waaaaaaaaaaaay better than bendix pads

i'll be getting some hpx pads for the stagea

the ar1m's are good hill climb style pads - full bite from the get go

but they have comp7's (i think) that are a proper track pad which would be good for those of you that only track your cars

they are pretty cheap too, hpx's are about $70-90 (i forget) and the ar1m's are about $140 i think

[Clandestine]

from what i've read qfm pads at waaaaaaaaaaaay better than bendix pads

i'll be getting some hpx pads for the stagea

the ar1m's are good hill climb style pads - full bite from the get go

but they have comp7's (i think) that are a proper track pad which would be good for those of you that only track your cars

they are pretty cheap too, hpx's are about $70-90 (i forget) and the ar1m's are about $140 i think

I think I read that the HPX's aren't being sold by people in preference for a slightly more expensive but much better pad? I had a good look into QFM AR1M's when Jack recommended them ages ago, and I couldn't find anything but absolutely positive results, especially for the price. Very tempted to try them out myself later on This is the email I got from GSL Rally Sport ([email protected]) when I was enquiring about them for my R33 earlier on in the year.

--------

A1RM to suit your car are $119 per set front or rear. Shipping is free when you order front and rear together, so all up for the whole car would be $238 delivered.

A1RM is the pad we recommend for a mix of both street and track work.

Easiest way to order is credit card over the phone, 1300 884 836, or else swing me your delivery address (preferably a work or business address!!) and contact number and I can fire you through an invoice with direct deposit details.

--------

Jay

[XRATED]

I'll be looking into some ducting (brakes, oil cooler, rad and intercooler) and some better race day pads for the next outing.

Also, for everyone with an RB with a stock sump, there are a couple of brake ponts/corners where oil pressure dips!!! I might have another look into accusumps.

Anyone want to sponser me a couple sets of semi's? ha ha ha

[DJRIFT]

i can hook people up with used race tyres for realistic prices. 235x45x17 and 265x35?x18

have a look at bens build thread if you want to learn what barsky can do to your oil system. we have datalogged race cars and found oil pressure drops to zero under heavy braking. whist under braking the engine isnt under load so it wont destroy a bearing straight up but we have found after a season it will ruin a bearing or 2.

[XRATED]

i can hook people up with used race tyres for realistic prices. 235x45x17 and 265x35?x18

have a look at bens build thread if you want to learn what barsky can do to your oil system. we have datalogged race cars and found oil pressure drops to zero under heavy braking. whist under braking the engine isnt under load so it wont destroy a bearing straight up but we have found after a season it will ruin a bearing or 2.

Yeah, comming down the hill into the left before the back straight- the guage bottoms out!!!

Affordable race tyres.... that's what I like to hear!

[TJHill]

i can hook people up with used race tyres for realistic prices. 235x45x17 and 265x35?x18

have a look at bens build thread if you want to learn what barsky can do to your oil system. we have datalogged race cars and found oil pressure drops to zero under heavy braking. whist under braking the engine isnt under load so it wont destroy a bearing straight up but we have found after a season it will ruin a bearing or 2.

So for noobs like me, what sort of precautions/modifications should be taken into consideration to be better prepared for such instances?

[DanielH]

I have EBC green stuffs in my R32 with 8 piston calipers/356mm rotors and on sunday they were starting to smell really hot after about 5-6 laps of using them fairly hard, i really shouldve put my hawke pads back in only took them out due to being daily driven, and they squeal alot

[DanielH]

So for noobs like me, what sort of precautions/modifications should be taken into consideration to be better prepared for such instances?

Since i put the G4 brakes on my R32 i would see the oil pressure drop to 0 (std gauge) and the oil light come on under hard braking even with street tires, but before i went to baskerville yesterday, i took Damo's advice and overfilled my oil to the hump on the dipstick (about 900ml above the FULL level on the stick) and this completely stopped it, even braking hard from 175K's with semis on the front it didnt run dry once, so i would strongly recommend this.

[DJRIFT]

^^^^^^ this is a basic race RB thing that has been around for years. like daniel said it helps.

[zoidbergmerc]

I'll be looking into some ducting (brakes, oil cooler, rad and intercooler) and some better race day pads for the next outing.

Also, for everyone with an RB with a stock sump, there are a couple of brake ponts/corners where oil pressure dips!!! I might have another look into accusumps.

I wasn't doing a lot of heavy braking but around the bends my oil pressure dipped a little. Do share the research you've done sump wise as I'd be interested too

[DanielH]

For my Cefiro Track car (RB20DET) i will be doing a common modification of gating the sump, which will completely eliminate oil pickup issues, along with an external oil drain.

I wasn't doing a lot of heavy braking but around the bends my oil pressure dipped a little. Do share the research you've done sump wise as I'd be interested too

Once you get your drainage issue sorted you will be a lot better off as your oil will return to the sump where it should be

RB's are quite good for not losing their oil supply when cornering as the sump is quite narrow and the sides are vertical, it has no where to go, but braking is the big killer.

Edited June 13, 2011 by DanielH

[sav man]

I really don't think the external drain does much at all. You need to put in restrictors to stop excess oil getting into the head in the first place.

If you guys are having braking problems at Baskerville, you're going to need to do a lot of sotring before you head to Symmons. Baskerville isn't that hard on brakes.

[zoidbergmerc]

Once you get your drainage issue sorted you will be a lot better off as your oil will return to the sump where it should be

RB's are quite good for not losing their oil supply when cornering as the sump is quite narrow and the sides are vertical, it has no where to go, but braking is the big killer.

True this,

I had a chat with Brad from Boost Automotive and he offered some very good advice.

My VCT wasn't enabled so that was dumping a whole lot of oil into the cam covers, enabling that should help the cause.

I'm pretty sure I've got some Tomei restricters in atm, not sure of size.

Standard N1 oil pressure would be above 100psi so I might drop that down to 65-70 with a new relief valve spring

My tiny baby NA Cam covers proboally arn't helping, some GTR ones with mines style baffles will help too.

[jangles]

oil restrictors in block, enlarged oil returns..

if motor is already assembled you should be looking into larger capacity sumps, with or without gating.

decent breathing system of the head. as savman suggests the oil drain from head work more so as a vent, so it can be done other ways without removing engine.

a quick simple way i have seen mentioned is a hose from the dip stick to the catch can... unltimately its only a quick fix if you only track some times. It's about equalizing pressure...

here is a link to a thread, its all been covered over and over again. good read

OIL CONTROL IN RB'S

Edited June 14, 2011 by jangles

[DanielH]

I really don't think the external drain does much at all. You need to put in restrictors to stop excess oil getting into the head in the first place.

If you guys are having braking problems at Baskerville, you're going to need to do a lot of sotring before you head to Symmons. Baskerville isn't that hard on brakes.

Yeah i'll definitely need my Hawke pads for symmons i think