Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well my car has changed a bit since I bought it in 2005. I bought it for a whopping 15k!!! and it's been the best car I've every owned. We've come a long way...

No plans on going anywhere or changing cars. Really the 32 GTSt (admitedly the 33 GTSt also) is one of the cheapest ways to get into motorsport. Even in standard form with a few mods they are bullet proof, relatively fast and easy to modify.

post-10715-0-51316800-1305714823_thumb.jpg

The whole story and pics HERE

Stil got my bus. 11th year of ownership and still running the RB20

11yrs holy moly, fair effort! still on the same engine?

=====================

Name: Nick

Car: 1993 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t Type M(RB20DET)

Years owned: This one.... less than one.

Location: South-East

Comments:

Im recently back on the 32 band wagon! Had a 32 gtst about 7 years ago, upgraded to a gtr.... since then, onevia, gtir, 180sx, another onevia, camry :D, mini clubman s, forester s edition.... now back to the 32 gtst for a weekend car... *read skid rig*

Pic:

fitment on the rear looks real nice. How low is it on the rear?

I remember one of my first decas there was a sea of black 32s,

BigBird, Rylan, Sam and me. The black 32 brotherhood. These days it's only been me and Pat.

Rylan and Sam have disappeared.

haha black 32's represent!

wassup bitchiz?

haha hows your r32 doin? Last time i saw it (i think?) was when Rylan did that weird motorkhana in the grass/dirt!

You guys should band together and make R32 GTS-t hoodies :thumbsup:

haha, prob not enough people around to cover the costs :(

Well my car has changed a bit since I bought it in 2005. I bought it for a whopping 15k!!! and it's been the best car I've every owned. We've come a long way...

No plans on going anywhere or changing cars. Really the 32 GTSt (admitedly the 33 GTSt also) is one of the cheapest ways to get into motorsport. Even in standard form with a few mods they are bullet proof, relatively fast and easy to modify.

post-10715-0-51316800-1305714823_thumb.jpg

The whole story and pics HERE

haha, im sure driver skill plays a lot into it too (for the r32 that is) :thumbsup:

Thanks for the build thread link, didnt know you had one. Havent thought about r34 GTT brakes before. Something you would do again?

Was expecting more new faces to post up! Its still the same ol' dinosaurs driving r32's haha

Yeah 34 GTT brakes are a great option. Would do it again for sure. Worked well even with the abuse I gave my car.

ah nice. Ive been eyeing these but they dont have any dust boots so a bit iffy on taking the plunge...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-Brake-Kit-300ZX-Nissan-13-4-piston-Wilwood-caliper-/150603284605?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2310a7c07d

/offtopic

ah nice. Ive been eyeing these but they dont have any dust boots so a bit iffy on taking the plunge...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Big-Brake-Kit-300ZX-Nissan-13-4-piston-Wilwood-caliper-/150603284605?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2310a7c07d

/offtopic

why? You mean dust boots around the pistons?

why? You mean dust boots around the pistons?

yeah, the wilwoods dont have them and the calipers were never ADR approved etc

Would prob have to get an engineers cert for them. However these brand new wilwoods are cheaper than 2nd hand r33 gtr brembos :domokun:

yeah, the wilwoods dont have them and the calipers were never ADR approved etc

Would prob have to get an engineers cert for them. However these brand new wilwoods are cheaper than 2nd hand r33 gtr brembos :domokun:

My G4's don't have dust covers but who cares if they're ADR approved. Just keep your standard ones if you have to change them back.

running grids as track rims?

LOL, no. Thet are genuine TE37s. Irs because the fronts are only +28 offset and rears +35 offset tht the look gay. They acrually grow on you, especially when you see all the JGTC with flat spokes that they kind of start to feel race spec cool :) (maybe)

fitment on the rear looks real nice. How low is it on the rear?

They are 17x9 +17 on the front and 17x10 +15 on the rear. Im running cusco zero's on the front and koni's on the rear. Not sure exactly how low they are in the rear.

I'm looking for some height adjustable coilovers to replace them though. needs more lowz..... :D

Anyone want a full set of lowered konis? or some cusco fronts?

Wish I was still part of this minority! Awesome cars, couldn't have asked for anything better in a first car. Having said that they're cheap as chips ATM, i might just get back into one next year after experiencing the joys/deep pockets of owning a GT-R.

Here she is in all her glory with my new baby; Damn I miss her :(

post-2240-0-34513100-1306141886_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...