Pnm35 Build Thread

[scotty nm35]

No turbo beanie? I would be sliding one on mate.

Looks good, like a copy of my setup. lol.

[PN-Mad]

Both good points.

I'm hoping my one bank rich problem has gone away- I might have fixed it, now just got to wait and see what the car does.

Scotty, your welcome to come up and try to fit on a turbo beanie!!!!

I'm developing a case of the CBF with the car at the moment. It will go away though....

[Daleo]

I know a guy that does competition coatings; you could always go that way?

[PN-Mad]

Dale, to be honest, there is no way in hell I'd be taking this out again to coat it.

If I had my time again, I would have taken you up on the offer, and had it done. It'd be well worth it.

That being said, I'm only seeing intake temp of 27 degrees on the freeway @ 110. Round some twists when there is a little more boost, its up to about 31 degrees

Whats that like compared to VQ25dets? I know there will be a difference in the boost, and therefore temp- but what are you guys seeing?

Oh, forgot this pic. This is the cabin filter that was supposedly replaced before I bought the car, next to the new one....

[scotty nm35]

Its not about intake temps, its the rear housing glowing at around 8-900 degrees C that worried me.

My kit is very easy to remove, I can have the turbo out in less than an hour with no hoist. lol. You should have bought the Scotty's Customs kit.

[PN-Mad]

Its not about intake temps, its the rear housing glowing at around 8-900 degrees C that worried me.

My kit is very easy to remove, I can have the turbo out in less than an hour with no hoist. lol. You should have bought the Scotty's Customs kit.

But this is the Magical Scotty- I've heard about your prowess- a normal mans 4 hour job is a Scotty 1 hour job!

And it doesn't say HKS on it.... not that I'm a brand whore.... much

To Do - Turbo blanket/beanie, and I've got left over heat wrap, so I'll do the dump, and get some flat heat mat on the rest of the firewall.

Edited February 8, 2012 by PN-Mad

[iamhe77]

Alex, how far off was the intercooler piping between the turbo and cooler and also the dump pipe?

You gonna wrap/coat the pipe from the cooler to the TB?

You should have bought the Scotty's Customs kit.

We need to talk.... some more

[PN-Mad]

Alex, how far off was the intercooler piping between the turbo and cooler and also the dump pipe?

You gonna wrap/coat the pipe from the cooler to the TB?

Wat?

See no point wrapping/coating intake piping, unless its to make it less noticeable in the engine bay.

Turbo outlet to intercooler is custom. Used some parts of the kits piping, but most had to be fabricated. Fabricator asked to remain nameless.

[scotty nm35]

He did a great job, doesnt he want more work?

[PN-Mad]

I think he has enough on his plate, and doesn't need to advertise. He does some architectural stuff as well.

[iamhe77]

Wat?

See no point wrapping/coating intake piping, unless its to make it less noticeable in the engine bay.

Turbo outlet to intercooler is custom. Used some parts of the kits piping, but most had to be fabricated. Fabricator asked to remain nameless.

Just a thought. Engine bay is hot (especially without heat shields over the exhaust manifolds), air is cooled by the intercooler but then must travel the length of the engine bay to the TB.

Would it make much of a difference? Maybe, maybe not. Made a big difference to the touch on my NM35's suction pipe (even the top bend at the rear of the airbox)

[PN-Mad]

Just a thought. Engine bay is hot (especially without heat shields over the exhaust manifolds), air is cooled by the intercooler but then must travel the length of the engine bay to the TB.

Would it make much of a difference? Maybe, maybe not. Made a big difference to the touch on my NM35's suction pipe (even the top bend at the rear of the airbox)

The manifolds do have heat shield- HKS supplied- yours didn't?

The temp of air at the AFM which is right in the middle of the engine bay is only 26-31 degrees. I think wrapping the turbo would be more of a priority.

[iamhe77]

The manifolds do have heat shield- HKS supplied- yours didn't?

The temp of air at the AFM which is right in the middle of the engine bay is only 26-31 degrees. I think wrapping the turbo would be more of a priority.

I thought they did, but couldn't remember nor picture them this morning (could only picture the OEM heatshields and I know they didn't go back on).

[PN-Mad]

Ok, I'm going to cut and paste comments from 350z club- I was hoping for some feed back on a problem I got, but I have nil response there. So here goes. And I'ma slap the first C34 owner that says coilpacks....

I have currently found my car has a issue. The car is a Stagea, with a VQ35de motor, and auto gearbox. Most componants are shared with a 350z.I have installed the HKS single turbo kit. Car is currently running stock injectors/plugs and pump, and obviously isn't getting driven hard. I have aftermarket versions of all, but am holding off putting them in. I have a tuner version of Uprev for my car. I first noticed that the car and a uneven idle, and smelt rich. Using Uprev cipher I had a look at the values- first thing I noticed was that the injector Pluse width was uneven across the banks. One bank was sitting on about 2.8ms, and the other fluctuated around 3.8-4.0ms- meaning one side is running richer than the other. With the HKS Kit, all 4 sensors are positioned in the turbo dump pipe. All sensors are active, and have similiar readings- ie- sensors are not dead. The car runs well in open loop, but has a stumble only when it switches to closed loop- ie crusing at light throttle, or at idle. I did some logging with uprev, and the AFR at idle seems to be good at around 14.7-15.0, and both sensors apear to read the same value. I also graphed the comparison between banks, and it appears around the 80%/120% range The problem has been getting worse as the ECU is learning its fuel trim. The engine uses a returnless fuel rail, so one side isn't getting more fuel pressure than the other I have the ability to turn on and off sensors using uprev, and that was going to be my next step. Any sugestions from the experts would be welcome. I don't really want to take my car anywhere, and I don't trust mechanics with it, and furthermore, very few mechanics can live up to what they say they can do. There is a very similar case on my350z.com, but with nil answers.

Update - I had the data open this morning, and cleared the learned fuel settings. That instantly improved idle and the balance between the two banks. I don't know exactly how long its taken to re-learn that imbalance, but it was a couple of days. Looking at the data,the most variance between the widebands is 0.01, while the Banks have a inj pluse width of 2.9ms and 4.1 ms.

Update- So, I unplugged one top O2 sensor thus making the car only run in open loop- ran fine. I re-connected it today, and the problem was instantly back - EXCEPT- it switched sides. IE the other bank is now too rich, and its pulling fuel from the original problem bank. Unplugged both lower sensors and reset learned fuel. It was ok, but learned the problem again in about 35kms.

So Any thoughts here?

Edited February 14, 2012 by PN-Mad

[bigkevracer]

Did you ask the guys at Uprev?

I don't suppose this is a dumb question, but would this be solved at all by putting in the new injectors?

Otherwise take it back to your Bro Dealer and see if he can smash it with a hammer until it's fixed?

[PN-Mad]

I'm currently in an email back and forth with Mark @ Abbeymotorsport. He has been very helpful with the issue. Using Uprev I can log engine data and send it to him- he's taking a look and seeing if he can figure it out.

Will consider hammer option....Or beat it with a stick option...

Edited February 14, 2012 by PN-Mad

[andy65b]

Hi Alex

You said that originally the O2 sesnors were in separate pipes for each bank.

Just a thought.... would repositioning one o2 sensor further from the exhaust port on the block effect the reading that it see's or is expecting to see?

Cheers

Andy

[scotty nm35]

Just leave it in closed loop, you won't want it learning after the tune anyway.

[zei20l]

can you put the original map back in and see how it runs on that?

it may be an uprev thing

[PN-Mad]

Hi Alex

You said that originally the O2 sesnors were in separate pipes for each bank.

Just a thought.... would repositioning one o2 sensor further from the exhaust port on the block effect the reading that it see's or is expecting to see?

Cheers

Andy

Hi Andy- The sensors themselves are reading a very similar voltage- and it seems that they are within factory tolerances as per the Service manual.

Just leave it in closed loop, you won't want it learning after the tune anyway.

Hey Scott, Do you mean open loop? My problem exists on Closed loop- ie O2 sensors active. As soon as I hit the throttle, and it pops out into open loop, the injector pulse become near identical, and it runs fine. Looking at it now, I have disconnected one O2 sensor and its running in open loop- the AFR is much steadier, and Inj pluse is near equal across banks.

can you put the original map back in and see how it runs on that?

it may be an uprev thing

Hi Iain, the problem existed before I flashed the ECU- Before I had touched the settings. The flash that I used contains all the stock settings, and has not effected the problem at all- it still exists.