Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh, and found out I have the dreaded cylinder 6 oil leak! Oh well, doesn't stop anything running- sure put out a smoke screen last night!

I have got the idle running stoic at normal temperature. Still runs like a bag of shit though. At least I know it won't foul the plugs on the way to the tuner. Took it for a quick spin to make sure its drivable so its all good.

Question- what do I give it a tank full of now? I was thinking BP Ultimate, what do you guys think?

United 100 :)

James noticed that his untuned HKS V35 ran smoother on it. He then tried V-Power and the car was stuttering randomly when cruising. Dunno if it did it on BP Ultimate (I think it did), but for comparison he was quite surprised with how much better it ran on the United 100.

BP ultimate.

awaits new fuel debate.

P.S. before you say it Scott.....we cannot get E85 everywhere for the 100th time!

I don't see why you wouldn't just run 98 PULP...its not like you can crank up the boost if you do run E85 anyway....:ninja:

State: NSW United E85 servo's

Drummoyne

81-85 Victoria Road

Drummoyne

NSW

2047

Rozelle (Speedway)

127 Victoria Road

Rozelle

NSW

2039

Sure, not as many servos as us, we have about 20 now. :nyaanyaa:

I guess we just buy more ethanol than you petrol heads...

I don't see why you wouldn't just run 98 PULP...its not like you can crank up the boost if you do run E85 anyway....:ninja:

Well, yeah, I can actually- but I just don't need 22psi to see some horsepower....ninja.gif

State: NSW United E85 servo's

Drummoyne

81-85 Victoria Road

Drummoyne

NSW

2047

Rozelle (Speedway)

127 Victoria Road

Rozelle

NSW

2039

Sure, not as many servos as us, we have about 20 now. :nyaanyaa:

I guess we just buy more ethanol than you petrol heads...

Both of them absolutely nowhere near us!

Still, I would get both tunes. You guys seem to think I run this shit because it gives more power. That wasnt the reason at all, I wanted the detonation protection it gives and this is unfortunately what you require too now Alex.

Won't a good tune give him that! I've seen a few SR20de+T tuned by my mate and never had an issues with detonation as you tune it safe and correctly for each set up and situation.

It will be fine on 98oct

Edited by slippylotion

Still too much load on the rods, you want to run the least timing you can which makes it run like ass. Better, slower burning fuel is the key, especially with high comp engines.

Of course it will be fine on 98 but for how long...

Agree tuning is the key- which is why I'm using who I'm using. Det doubles or triples the load on the rods- thats what does them in. Idiot tuners jam heaps of ignition in them to bring them on hard- thats whats to be avoided as far as I can tell. Detonate on 98, detonate on E85- both will kill the motor, as it would any other motor. They just have to be tuned without producing overly high cylinder pressures.

Scotty- put it this way- by the time I went an bought a tank of E85, and drove it home, it'd just be about time to turn around and go to fill it back up. In the future, if it gets rolled out widespread around sydney- I'll think about it. I'm not keeping a fing barrel in my garage. This is a daily!

superchargedg-2003 coupe 5at-stock block-stillen stage 4-a couple more things-340rwhp on a dynapack(i dont believe it though) about 25,000 miles driven hard at times. 382rwhp and 396rwt on the greddy twins at 9psi. And its a 5at. 05/26/10 Update 82,000 miles FI'ed with 30,000 with the twins

Canadian - 2006 5AT Coupe. JWT TT @ 7psi ~370whp. Fast Intentions Exhaust, Defi Blue Racer gauges. Installed and tuned by Relentless Autosports. Built 5AT. Stock internals. 37k miles boosted 53k total.

voryGT-V-2004 Coupe 6MT, Greddy Twins,6psi low 350 whp and 10 psi 400high ,Fcon pron, plenum spacer, all bolt ons,15k on boosted motor, still running strong.

Mark350gt - 404whp 9psi. HKS Fcon VPRO. 750cc injectors, walbro fuel pump, and a bunch of other stuff. 13,xxx miles no prob.

These are a few of the poeple with higher kms. I'm a bit sick of people saying its a grenade. They got that rep because idiots in the US (and here too) didn't know how to tune them. Lessons have been learnt. I'm not saying its a strong as a VQ25, but don't underrate them either.

+1 United 100. My car always seems to run better on it, not sure what the difference would be for a tune though, 10% ethanol vs BP Ultimate.

You only have two Uniteds with E85 in NSW? We have more than that! Plus even more when you factor in Caltex and Liberty...

United 100 :)

James noticed that his untuned HKS V35 ran smoother on it. He then tried V-Power and the car was stuttering randomly when cruising. Dunno if it did it on BP Ultimate (I think it did), but for comparison he was quite surprised with how much better it ran on the United 100.

Could also come down to the fact that my BCM is FRIED, new one getting fitted tomorrow :thumbsup:

These are a few of the poeple with higher kms. I'm a bit sick of people saying its a grenade. They got that rep because idiots in the US (and here too) didn't know how to tune them. Lessons have been learnt. I'm not saying its a strong as a VQ25, but don't underrate them either.

Agreed, and the same goes to the people that have a prob with the CVT in the GT8, 3 months since I strapped the turbo on and I havent had a single problem with mine.:cheers:

Good luck today Alex. Look forward to seeing the result and reading the details :)

Could also come down to the fact that my BCM is FRIED, new one getting fitted tomorrow :thumbsup:

Possibly, and about bloody time it came in.

Give the service manager there a punch to the throat for me will ya mad.gif

Edited by iamhe77

Turns out we were a little offblush.gif

6943224533_1aa8d31cab_z.jpg

Things to note (no excuses! but various factors) Unigroup has whats explained to me as a "sad" dyno, not a Happy dyno like Envy Imports, Temp was about 31 or 32 in the cell by this stage. The Run was done in 4th Gear (unlike NM35s who use 3rd because of the speed cut)

Yavuz seriously knows his shit- as someone else had mentioned, dude is a scientist. He whipped out the calculator and estimated 175kw from my previous dyno sessions. Full boost comes on just after 2500rpm, and holds to just under 4 SPI by 6500rpm. That line you can see is 4 psi- sorry my photo is a bit crooked! Its pretty much full noise by about 4750rpm. Very nice flat graph.

AFR's are very conservative- starts at 12.5 and lowers to 11.5 by max RPM

Sorry, don't have a video, because I was in the car with Yavuz, going through the software. Very positive feedback from him re Uprev- comment was its much more user friendly than NISTune, and more set up like full after market (Link G4 / Haltech etc)

Someone must have snuck in and replaced my gearbox with a sponge when I wasn't looking- its gone to shit. I have the classic NM35 3 second wait before it snaps the next gear in manual mode. I believe that I can change this- the ECU has a torque management table - what we did to the base schedule was basically halve it (due to injectors and K value), so this needs to be applied to the gearbox too- the ECU tells the box when to expect max power, and adjusts the line pressures to suit. So thats a little project for me.

Hot start is acceptable- I have to work on cold start, as the car hasn't been cold!

So there you go- I'm a little bummed that I didn't crack 200, however its a blast to drive, the power is pretty instant, torque is great, it is (like every unigroup tune) a very safe and usable map. When done- the price was unbelievable. I actually paid him more than he asked, I thought he ripped himself off- told him to look out for me next time!

projects- plug the o2 sensors back in when its cold- see if the problem remains, cold start tuning, Gearbox scaling (will need mark from Abbeys help hereblush.gif), see how much I have left on the stock MAF, get upgraded MAF and shove 7PSI down it until something breaks!

SCOTTY- got your package today thumbsup.gif thanks. Hope nothing has melted- pinch.gif

Edited by PN-Mad

Congrats on the tune; as you say, it's less about the number, and more about how it drives.

It was incredibly humid today, and with the temp it's probably not too surprising. At only 4 psi; I reckon you'd be happy with that.thumbsup.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...