Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I got a enquiry on my car from carsales.

Hello,

My name is Chew, four months ago my dog was killed by a car in Narre near krispy kreme. A dark man was driving the car, possibly curry. Car did not stop.

He was hit by a silvia like in your picture.

I thought I would never see the car again, but then I see the murderers car for sale now the heat is over.

Are you trying to get rid of the evidence? You killed my dog of 8 years and didn't stop. I had to tell my kids that they would never see him again. Now they just look dead inside, like their soul was taken from them. I can't blame them.

Pi PI is not coming back, but I want you to come here and apologise to my kid. You owe me new dog.

Maybe you drunk and didn't remember?

E-mail me back and we set up time.

Found out it was one of my works Repo agents. I was about to send back a picture of a dead dog saying "want it back?"

good thing I didnt lol

and apparently a lot stronger. rods in the 7 are also weaker than the 8..

hence my want to save a bit more and buy an 9 early next year.

Mate of mine will be selling his Silver 9 mid next year when his Aston arrives lol... less than 40k kms on it currently, he barely drives it :D

Found out it was one of my works Repo agents. I was about to send back a picture of a dead dog saying "want it back?"

good thing I didnt lol

just reply "you were gonna eat the dog anyway"

:rofl:

IX turbo, lower intercooler pipes, injectors, ebc, tune... 230 awkw done

coilovers rims etc... obviously

Better off doing 8mr turbo as it bolts straight on, IX turbo needs a fitting kit and there is another $100 for maybe 5kw max

the only difference between them is the alloy roof and turbo i think.. so kind of pointless to get an MR when you could probably get a turbo out of one for cheap..

im even considering a seven! i think the bodykits on the seven are heaps better.. and i really dont wanna mod it too much.

Nah different seats, suspension, rear wing, have more power from factory (tuned more)

But for the price and if you are modifying then go the 8 and mod it

$10K for an alloy roof?

What's the roof made of on the non MR Edition?

lead

LOL

Its steel Jamie

yeh, same as my thought..

7's are apparently good up to 245kw

so im thinkin of e85.. just a tad safer.

If you go seven and running that kind of power e85 will kill it. It's actually when it has a lot of low down torque that generally kills the engines, e85 has been the killer of most of the 7 rods

BOV, gear-knob and seats are also different... ;)

8MR has no value over an 8 for a street / track car. Spend $10k on mods for an 8.

The 6 Speed box on the > VIII models eats the VII 5 Speed is the only consideration. The gearing is far far better.

This, on par with power my mates 7 was just out run by an 8mr due to the 6speed box

IMO get an 8 and do a front nose chop, it'll look like a 9 and be heaps cheaper

Make sure it has a badge on though, like the 9

from this

evo8red.jpg

to this

katchupevo07.jpg

and comparing to a IX front

95462714dx0.jpg

Also handy that the 8 run the same wing as the 9 so all you really need is a 9 bar to make it awesome

i was on 235kw on pump no issues at all 25psi daily :D

well then im sold on a 7.. not going to go nutz on mods, so dont really need the stronger engine!

and if it does blow up.

stroker.

hamish hows the baby going? picked a name?

great! 1 month to go! name is a secret brah!

I'd never sell my soul like that

yeah, cos a 360awkw bought not built GTR is not a cheater car but an evo is :P

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...