Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

f*k i'm getting better at parking close to poles aye. I have to park next to a pole. And when I do, if i drive straight, mirror will just scrape the pole. Haha. Too many careless kids and people who slam doors.

I park next to a pole nearly every time. Only had one instance where I wasn't paying enough attention and the wheel arches on the Cube stick out a fair way from the body. Lucky I had the flares.

Mine were genuine too..

And birds it does no negative harm to have heat range 7's

Not harm, but takes longer for the spark plugs to reach optimal running temperature...when you're driving a daily on short trips it makes a difference. Always go as hot as you can without overheating - just like injectors, going as small as you can without running too much duty cycle.

Essentially, I could park our straight piped, externally gated S15 track car outside Knox police station...that short, fat asshole can write a Tom Clancy novel of defects for it...and then proceed to shove the whole notebook up his own ass using his tears as lubricant.

Cars have been defected on Trader Plates. So yeah, you kinda couldn't :P

Not harm, but takes longer for the spark plugs to reach optimal running temperature...when you're driving a daily on short trips it makes a difference. Always go as hot as you can without overheating - just like injectors, going as small as you can without running too much duty cycle.

I ran 7's on my SR20. Wasn't the greatest idea for a car being moved short distances occasionally. Would foul a set beyond use in 1000km's.

i was happy to sit on the limiter on a 40c day at DECA with a trent tune and never managed to get the light on....

jus sayin ;)

Btw I see you may have found 'da 1' e7 pending a check over ;)

:ninja: :ninja: :ninja:

Noice.

Edited by kaitoukid

If his name isn't Sven or Hans, you're being ripped off.

haha probably is I've just never asked :P

They are apparently well audi / vw / BMW

Hmm, still not sure man. I go to VolksHome in Thomastown because it's close to me

holy jeebize id love one but i dont think i could handle a bear haha

Nah those are big males, our female is much smaller

Dog or bear?

Nick would say Dog but its clearly a bear/beast id love to have this bad boy guarding the GTR but the fact that there bigger then me worries me

Yeah dog, although they do have a really strange smell about them that isn't dog at all

i've got a cat. feed, and ignore.

I prefer cats, I wasn't a big fan of dogs until we got Mechka though. She is the best with who know her

I ran 7's on my SR20. Wasn't the greatest idea for a car being moved short distances occasionally. Would foul a set beyond use in 1000km's.

That's why I recommend 6s, particularly if you have a conservative/rich tune. Stock engines run 5s okay...no reason anything this side of 300rwkw can't deal with 6s for daily duties with a thrashing here and there.

Btw I see you may have found 'da 1' e7 pending a check over ;)

:ninja: :ninja: :ninja:

Noice.

reading evolutionoz forums eh?

yeah, everything set to go as long as the compression holds up and there is no rust / structural damage

Not harm, but takes longer for the spark plugs to reach optimal running temperature...when you're driving a daily on short trips it makes a difference. Always go as hot as you can without overheating - just like injectors, going as small as you can without running too much duty cycle.

Fair point. I had to run em on the 200, I found at 270 with a four banger, 6 was just too warm

reading evolutionoz forums eh?

yeah, everything set to go as long as the compression holds up and there is no rust / structural damage

Ooo00000ooo got a link u care to pm me with?

i was happy to sit on the limiter on a 40c day at DECA with a trent tune and never managed to get the light on....

jus sayin ;)

Every car is different :)

Just going from a PFC to a PFC-Pro with identical tune, my knock went up by 15 - wasn't a problem with the tune, just the way the ECU was interpreting the signal, so it would hummmm along at 35 and it was totally fine (where previous it'd never go above 20).

His knock sensor could be picking up a little more noise than yours did. Either way 65 knock isn't great, but it's still not bad. Anything over 35-70 usually just means there is 1-2 cells that need attention. Misfiring will also cause the knock sensor to go nuts as well, same as hitting limiters etc.

Odi - wideband won't show you much either as by the time it's leaned off to a point that you'll notice, you've already done the damage (no-one stares @ a gauge when fully up it). Much the same as oil pressure dropping when @ 7000rpm, buy the time you notice/light comes on, the motor is f**ked anyway unless you are setting the ECU up to shut the car down in such a situation via a trigger/value/aux input, which a PFC doesn't have.

I'd suggest having the fuel pressure checked, possible the walbro is faltering now and again, I had one give issues like that 6-7 years ago. However with the misfire could just be a case of a loom/grounding issue. Even voltage supply, so not the coilpacks themselves either. Could also be the CAS playing up intermittently, they have a habit of doing that when they are letting go (you can get another 6-12 months out of them sometimes before they die and the car just wont turn on).

Nissan electricals are a headache :(

reading evolutionoz forums eh?

yeah, everything set to go as long as the compression holds up and there is no rust / structural damage

you know it :thumbsup:

haha exciting stuff. same as aaron... pm me if links available if you will hehe :P

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...