Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AV kunce... bought new 5.1 speaker setup.. thinking it would be a direct swap for my existing yamaha speakers... the new ones being a better model have 'bi connection' available as opposed to the old set with just the standard one pair of terminals per front speaker...

apparenty 'bi connection 'decreases modulation distortion caused by electric resistance of the cables and driving current of the speakers. Consequently, purer sound quality can be achieved'

That'll get done on my holidays...

Now the new sub...the old sub was just a direct plug in to both the sub and the amp... new sub has terminals for speaker wire connection or plug in inputs... 1 using a mono pin cable, not included of course, which connects to the 'subwoofer low pass' terminal on the amp... or using an 'audio pin cable', also not supplied, which is a 2 plug setup which goes to the 'split subwoofer' inputs on the amp....

Which of these options would give the best results?

I'm looking at you Odium.

  • Like 1

bi-amped means to split the signal and run two seperate outputs to the speakers

you need an amp that supports channel a and channel b - or dual amp

my setup is like

you basically run two pairs of speaker wires to each speaker

does the amp have speaker A and Speaker B ?

given that it's a 5.1 its unlikey

does the amp have subout ?

bi-amp is better but if your amp doesnt support it, life goes on. just bridge the terminals so that the single speaker wire goes to both terminals if that makes sense

ie dont cross the wires, but merge them

bi-amped means to split the signal and run two seperate outputs to the speakers

you need an amp that supports channel a and channel b - or dual amp

my setup is like

you basically run two pairs of speaker wires to each speaker

does the amp have speaker A and Speaker B ?

given that it's a 5.1 its unlikey

does the amp have subout ?

The instructions that came with the speakers actually say you can put the 2 pairs of cables into the same terminals on the amp if only one pair of front speaker terminals is available..

yamaha_rx_v467_1.jpg

bi-amp is better but if your amp doesnt support it, life goes on. just bridge the terminals so that the single speaker wire goes to both terminals if that makes sense

ie dont cross the wires, but merge them

yeah you can split the wires, use a bridge tool and run completely seperate - from two seperate outputs

so on my stereo amp

i have channel A and channel B on the amp

Channel A goes to speakers on input #1 on the speakers

channel b goes to speakers on input #2 on the speakers

then on the amp when Channel A and B are turned on you hear normal music

if you only turn on channel a - you only hear trebble, if you only turn on B you only hear bass

Why would you ever want only treble or bass?

From what these instructions say, its not about doing that at all, just about increasing the sound quality... They're connected as normal for now, if I cbf I'll do the bi connection using the single front speaker terminal pairs, but I doubt I'll be able to hear any difference anyway.

As for the sub, the speaker wire option with my amp only having the 1 set of front speaker terminals, I'll go with the AV cable connection instead.

What you're referring to is Bi-Wiring, not Bi-Amping... very different concepts... and neither will increase your chances of a threesome with two bi girls, trust me, I know... The Onkyo Sales Rep lied to me.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bi-wiring .... "Buy-Wiring", ha.

Your success will only determine the type of car that I buy you, not whether I buy you a car or not...I trust you'll look after it as if you had saved for it yourself

/genyparent

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...